capemustang

The bottom of your car is so clean!  And those fuel lines look amazing!

Closing this one out, as a job done. Although, I do question the need for a relay as when I was proving the power wires, there was only 0.240 volts coming through when the ignition was on. I don't know if that beefs up when the starter is engaged or not.
@Rich Ackermann the word description has you using 2 terminal 30. The picture is correct so the wiring sequence is
30 - power in from the OEM NSS wiring on the plug
86 -  power in from the OEM NSS wiring on the plug - I jumped these at the #30 terminal with the piggy back wire
87 - power out through the relay back to the OEM NSS wiring on the plug
85 - ground from the NSS switch
Basically all you are doing is grounding the relay with the NSS which allows power to flow through the relay and completes the circuit
(Ignore the dodgy burnt wrap, I got too excited with a butane blowtorch)
I cut the replacement 4
 speed harness wires and soldered in two new wires. I should have kept the auto loom but the guy who box the gearbox wanted it so I chopped up a brand new repro.

I got smart and put some red heatshrink on the power side, so I knew what way to wire the relay.
For the life of me I could not find out what type of connector is used on the plug, so I replaced it with a Deutsch connector. First time I used one, I'm converted. Whilst they are easier to assemble than the Delphi Weatherpack, they are dearer and the correct tool is eye watering expensive.

 
Once crimped, shrinked, tied and mounted (I hung the relay under the RH strut brace so it's somewhat hidden but easy to access), the proof was in the starting. It hasn't showed up real well but I started it in neutral and then shifted it into 1st. Cut out straight away.

IMG_1468.MOV Tick that job off the list :)
 

Yikes!  I have a convertible as well.  I have no idea how I would fit through those little openings behind the seat!  Maybe if I remove the motor....
Glad you got it!

Hello, 
Thank you for your input.  It is a convertible so the seat does not fold down--the convertible top hydraulics are in the way and it is a rigid back. I did try as you suggested and it didn't work, although a very  good idea. I basically unscrewed the convertible top boot and then somehow slid into the trunk that way-worming my way in. It was a tight fit and I was stuck for half a minute. I was able to use the socket to unscrew the trunk lid screws.  Again, thank you for your suggestions. Take care

Hello, 
Thank you for your input.  It is a convertible so the seat does not fold down--the convertible top hydraulics are in the way and it is a rigid back. I did try as you suggested and it didn't work, although a very  good idea. I basically unscrewed the convertible top boot and then somehow slid into the trunk that way-worming my way in. It was a tight fit and I was stuck for half a minute. I was able to use the socket to unscrew the trunk lid screws.  Again, thank you for your suggestions. Take care

I went to pick up my power window kit for my '70 convertible.  These come highly recommended from local restoration shops.   I have no affiliation with the supplier, had never been there before, but as it was driving distance, I decided to go over and pick up my window kit.
What I found was a small family run business in a small town called East Bend, NC, population 620.   It is located on the East Bend of the Yadkin River, near Winston Salem.
The owner personally hooked me up with the right regulators, motors, and switch combination.  I went back in the shop, and all of the steel parts are laser cut right there.  All of the hardware was very high quality.  I chose the billet switch option, which uses a chrome plated billet base for the 4-switch option I chose for my console.   The kit uses brand new GM switches and harness connectors.   
So, if you are looking for an honest to god Made in the USA power window kit, check these guys out.   
 
 

I built some of of uhmw plastic. I found 2 holes saws that were the correct size and built them. One for the base and one for the side that goes in the track. I drilled part way from both directions the correct depth of the original. Then I counter suck a hole in it to and put a stainless 1/4” bolt in with a lock nut. It looks large in the picture but is the same outer diameter as the factory, just round. It travels good in the track with no issues that I’ve noticed. 

Are you talking about the rollers that are installed with swaged stand off to the glass frame and slide inside the 3 rails? If so, I could not find any reproductions. I had a couple which had the springed edges broken. So I 3D printed a couple from ABS, ground the swaged part of the stand off, drilled a hole through the stand off and tapped it. Installed the 3D printed roller using the modified stand off and a bolt. Have been using them for a few years now and still working (but the rear windows do not get rolled up and down a lot).

Sorry gentlemen for the site being down.  My hosting company upgraded something and broke the website.
Creating a local backup now, incase of future f ups.
Also my email has been cleared for future communications. 

My son who owns a 69 Mach 1 designed and 3d printed a cup holder for his cousins 73 Mach 1 that fit in the ash tray. Could easily be done for 69 as well. He even put the pony logo on it. To be clear no money exchanged hands as might be breaking some copy right law with the horse! LOL. Just an idea to add to the conversation.  With todays 3d printing technology, the materials and quality can be really nice  

First order of business, happy early birthday. 
My advice is based on you saying you don't have the time or space to work on your Mustang, and my own experiences. 
Rusty Gillis does outstanding work on Mustangs, and is located in Port Richie FL. http://www.gillisrestorations.com/  
Summit sells a Holley knockoff that people rave about, I've not used it but would if I need another carb.

Forum member  @Midlife is the go to guy for wiring harness issues. http://midlifeharness.com/
Nothing wrong with Ford steering if it's in good shape. Dan at Chockostang.com is the go to guy for steering issues. I believe the doing the Shelby/Arning upper control arm one inch drop, and proper alignment to be pretty much mandatory for a good handling Mustang. Day Scovil at Daze Cars is a great guy, with many how to tech articles. https://dazecars.com/dazed/drop.html
When you change from factory parts to aftermarket, it's not plug and play. One change will require several other mods for the first to work. I'm president of that club, and discourage new members. 
A points based ignition like our cars came with need replaced every 10-15,000 miles. Many people change to Duraspark or Petronix and are happy with it. 
I think your buddy's valuation is pretty close. 
Good luck with your build.
 

Totally agree with all mentioned. My restore started about the same, concentrate  on safety first. Disk brakes, steering , lights, signals, new suspension etc. motor and transmission checked out, for  freeze plugs , seals and gaskets, etc. Once these are done the paint and interior can follow.  Above vendors are real good for parts.Takes time but is all worth it. When driving the car it will turn heads.
 
Best of luck
 

Welcome to the friendliest forum Kaitlyn, and congratulations on buying the best looking car ever club. As you know, 69 sportsroofs are hard to get nowadays due to their recent popularity. 
Good advice from Midlife above. If you haven't already done so, many people get a Marti report
https://www.martiauto.com/martireports.cfm
to find out a bit of info on their Mustang. It includes build dates and what parts and options your particular car was built with. 
Here are a few Mustang businesses that most enthusiasts believe are the best in their field. 
http://midlifeharness.com/ for wiring restoration. Randy was the first to reply to your post, is a plethora of information, and a swell guy. 
http://www.chockostangclassicmustang.com/ for all things steering and brakes. I highly recommend you at some point send him your steering box for a rebuild. After 53 years it needs it. Dan and Carol are also great people to deal with. 
https://opentrackerracing.com/ for all things suspension. John is also a great guy. 
If you call these guys, you will be talking to the owner. Just tell them what you are planning, or ask for advice, and you will get good, solid information. 
https://www.npdlink.com/ National Parts Depot (NPD) for parts. 
There are several other good Mustang vendors which will be mentioned to you during your build. 
Pics. We love pics here. At least I do.  Especially pics of your 69 as it currently sits. We also like to know what part of the country you're from. If you don't care to list the town, a geographical location helps. 
And again, welcome to the forum. 

Hi all
I'm going to be documenting the entire rebuild. This is my time doing this so be gentle. Haha.
 

A common problem with 69/70 dash clusters is that the gauges (except ammeter) don't work.  The reason is that one of the various posts of the gauges is touching the metal housing, which basically shorts all of the gauges.  This often happens when one replaces the circuit card.  To solve, take the dash out and loosen the 2 bolts for one of the gauges and re-set the gauge in the housing and re-tighten the bolts.  If you have a multimeter, measure the resistance between any one of the posts and the metal housing of the dash cluster.  If you see 1 or 14 ohms, then one of the bolts is touching.  You will spend a fair amount of time re-setting the gauges until you get a reading of kilo- or mega-ohms: that is the reading you want.
You can't see the issue, as the view is obstructed by the circuit card and the cardboard insulation pad underneath the bolt nuts.

Hello there, you've come to the right place. As jmlay mentioned, there are several posts that would help. Go to "How to's" and look at "Fixing the Instrument Panel, "A Real Schematic", and "1969 Mustang Wire Diagram".
You've mentioned doing a 9v battery test. Actually it only takes 3v (two D batteries in series) to get the needles to sweep, but it probably did no harm. It sounds like the fault is between the gauges and the senders. So it could be the flex circuit on the back of the instrument panel, the connector to the flex, or the wires. The wire diagram shows both tach and non-tach car wiring- just find the correct page. Same for "Fixing the Instrument Panel- the non-tach version is first and the tach version follows. Let us know if we can help further.
A Schematic simplifies the circuit so you can see at a glance how it works. From your description you probably have an open circuit somewhere in the area of the red arrow (in a couple of places). 

This guy has several easy to follow Holley tuning video.
 

Unfortunately, I found very few classics in my club, and even fewer people who actually work on their cars. I find that frustrating, because I like working on things, and talking to like minded people. If you don't have some natural mechanical ability, it will be very difficult. I have one son that doesn't know one end of a screwdriver from the other, but his younger brother will attempt anything. I figure I could do anything, but there are some things I just don't want to do. For instance, I think hog ring pliers would make my arthritis act-up, so unless I can fashion a pair with long handles, I'm not going to attempt upholstery. You will learn techniques as you go along, just by trial and error. You may need to do it over one or more times, but so what? You'll probably do it better than most shops- and believe me that is very true. Only one in four professionals are competent at what they do.
With help and guidance from a group of guys like we have here, you will get it done. These are are fairly simple machines, and its not rocket science. Much of it is unbolting one part and bolting on another. I had never welded until recently, so I bought a welder and through the use of videos, I practiced (and practiced)  (and practiced), and finally built a ramp to get one of my cars in the garage (its one of those plastic cars that we don't like to mention on this forum). The car is too low and the driveway too steep, but now I can drive it right in. 
If you think you can't do something, you're right. If you adopt an attitude that anything you mess-up can be fixed, it makes a world of difference. Just remember that nothing that anyone does is perfect. I tend to be a perfectionist and constantly have to remind myself when something is good enough.

One other thing about most of the aftermarket wiring kits: they are basically designed for *gasp* GM products, so you'll need to cut off your Ford connectors and splice into the pigtails.
What you're looking for is more aligned with what I do: give you a factory correct set of wiring, all plug-n-play, with a 2 year warranty.  From there, you can modify things for 1 wire alternators, etc., as you see fit.

Yesterday I picked up a 1969 coupe.  The best way to describe this car is it has been somebody else's project car.  Its a base model 69 coupe.  There are no power windows or power seats.  A previous owner has swapped the 200CID for a 302 along with the usual things like aftermarket distributor, sensors, sending units.  Most of the electronic things on the car work as expected.  There are some things that are not working and some things that are just plane working wrong.  For example, some of the headlights dont light up, one of the blinkers in the hood doesn't blink, and when you pull the knob to turn on the headlights, it also turns on the heater blower.
I need to address the electrical in this car.  I have not come across a really great and comprehensive wiring diagram.  I have a bunch of ford shop manuals covering 1969, but they don't have much in the way about wiring.  Is there a good resource out there for a complete wiring diagram that is easy to follow for the 1969 mustangs?
And while looking into this, I am also considering trying one of those all-in-one kits to rewire the entire car.  I see a couple different ones on the market.  Is one of them better than the other?  I see some of them say they only work with the aftermarket 1-wire alternator and only works with aftermarket ignitions.  I think I would prefer one that worked with the stock configuration of the car and then let me pick and choose if I want to run a 1-wire alternator or MSD ignition box.  Do you guys have any input to which complete wiring harnesses to get and which to avoid?
Also, I have never rewired the entire car with one of these complete harnesses.  I understand the general theory behind it.  When it comes to the 1969 mustang, how far do you have to take the car apart to rewire it?  Do you have to pretty much strip everything out of the entire dash?  I will probably skip pulling the headliner out just to swap the dome light.  I'd splice the existing wire into the new harness.
 
 

If you have no voltage to center two clips (BATT) on the bottom of the fuse box, the most probable cause is that the wire going to the back side of the fuse box has broken off.  I see this about 10-15% of the time.  Disconnect the battery, remove the fuse box and inspect the two large wires where they attach to the center taps of the fuse clips on the back side of the fuse box. 

Here you can see wher I put it above the original radio and under where the AC vent goes. 

There are many bluetooth receivers available, some are under $10.  I have mine hooked up to my Factory AM/FM radio,  so I click a switch and it changes from AM/Fm to bluetooth receiver.   That way the volume and tone knobs work for the sound coming from my phone, through the radio, and to the speakers.  
I did this modification on a 1973 Ford factory radio so I have the original appearance.  I can do it for anyone else who is interested. 

Sounds right, I have the convenience group in my car. For whatever reason, I thought all '69's had the 12V wire to the trunk but it appears I was mistaken. First time that's ever happened. :)

Congrats! Looks wonderful!