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capemustang

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  1. Like
    capemustang got a reaction from Grabber70Mach in VintageLeds Mustang Daytime Running Lights   
    I meant to write this last winter.  Previously, I had installed Led bulbs for the front turn signals in order to make them more visible, but still felt that other vehicles couldn’t see them well enough.  I purchased and installed the VintageLed Daytime Running Lights on my 1969.  I had some difficulty with one of the lights that had to do with my car’s socket. The connector would not stay seated in the socket. Gary responded immediately and talked me through the solution.  Since installing them, the brightness is amazing as well as how well the lights work.  I can’t say enough about how pleased I am with the customer service, the design, and workmanship.
  2. Like
    capemustang reacted to copb8 in VintageLeds Mustang Daytime Running Lights   
    I've installed these as well and had an issue with the wiring of my car. Gary was actually more responsive to the problem than I was! :-) He kept checking back and making suggestions until the issue was resolved, which was not related to his product. Love being able to see now and being seen.
  3. Like
    capemustang got a reaction from Mike65 in VintageLeds Mustang Daytime Running Lights   
    I meant to write this last winter.  Previously, I had installed Led bulbs for the front turn signals in order to make them more visible, but still felt that other vehicles couldn’t see them well enough.  I purchased and installed the VintageLed Daytime Running Lights on my 1969.  I had some difficulty with one of the lights that had to do with my car’s socket. The connector would not stay seated in the socket. Gary responded immediately and talked me through the solution.  Since installing them, the brightness is amazing as well as how well the lights work.  I can’t say enough about how pleased I am with the customer service, the design, and workmanship.
  4. Like
    capemustang got a reaction from SWPruett in VintageLeds Mustang Daytime Running Lights   
    I meant to write this last winter.  Previously, I had installed Led bulbs for the front turn signals in order to make them more visible, but still felt that other vehicles couldn’t see them well enough.  I purchased and installed the VintageLed Daytime Running Lights on my 1969.  I had some difficulty with one of the lights that had to do with my car’s socket. The connector would not stay seated in the socket. Gary responded immediately and talked me through the solution.  Since installing them, the brightness is amazing as well as how well the lights work.  I can’t say enough about how pleased I am with the customer service, the design, and workmanship.
  5. Like
    capemustang reacted to dream car in Lower Clutch Rod.... Does this look right to you???   
    Sound like your new sharp clutch rod poked a hole on the clutch fork.  As you drove it made the hole larger and larger and cause the clutch paddle go lower and lower, that just my thought.
  6. Like
    capemustang reacted to jrw69 in Power Steering Kit   
    Update, Installed new roller idler arm, made a big difference in steering effort especially at low speed. I would recommend this before buying and installing the power steering kit. Not power steering but a good improvement. Roller bearings make the difference over the rubber bushings.
  7. Like
    capemustang reacted to Mach1 Driver in 1969 Mustang Wire Diagram   
    This is from the official Ford Shop Manual made by Helm that I bought way back in 69. It is 30+ pages and is originally printed on 11x17 paper, but the PDF software will allow it to be printed on 8-1/2x11. This is a large file and takes a while to download. I only recently scanned the document because its so old and full of dust mites that it literally makes me sneeze every time I turn a page. I hope it helps.
    BTW, at the top left using the View button, you can rotate the image, and the +/- buttons will change the size
    Mustang Wire Diagram.pdf
  8. Like
    capemustang reacted to Midlife in Kudos To Randy At MidLife   
    You're more than welcome.  It is often that another set of eyes/mindset can troubleshoot things better than the one experiencing the problem. 
    The main reason why I am on this and other forums, as well as my wiring refurbishment business, is that I really enjoy trouble-shooting from a distance.  Having a detached perspective (e.g. a dirty mind laying in the gutter) and helping people out gives me great satisfaction out of life.  That, and a good brand of whiskey...
  9. Like
    capemustang reacted to Mountaineerfan in What did you do to/for your Mustang today?   
    Not today, but over the weekend:
    Just got the car back from the shop after the accident.  Installed a new FlowKooler aluminum water pump, and took her for a spin!

  10. Like
    capemustang reacted to Vicfreg in 1970 Convertible Restoration   
    Found the missing bolts in a clearly marked zip log bag that was in with my window hardware....  anyway...
    Got the top together, like a big erector set.  Finally managed to get it pretty straight, hooked up the new hydraulic pump, lines and cylinders, and it actually worked. 
    Video attached.  
     
    IMG_7401.MOV
  11. Like
    capemustang reacted to Midlife in Headlight switch finicky   
    The headlight connector, per se, is not at fault, it is only a phenolic block.  The pins that go into the headlight connector can be suspect, and often times I need to re-crimp the pins to get good continuity to the rest of the wiring system.
  12. Like
    capemustang reacted to dcm0123 in Headlight switch finicky   
    Sometimes the connector goes causing the switch to overheat and fail. Replacing the switch when this happens is a temporary solution unless you replace the mating connector.
    If you can get it to work, leave it on for a while then touch the wires coming out of the connector with your hand. If you feel heat, replace the connector as well. Unplug the connector and look for signs of burning on the electrical sockets or plastic inside the connector. This is a sign the connector is bad. If the contact is bad enough, you may not be ale to get the lights to work.
    As mentioned above many people buy a relay kit and use the switch to only pull in the relay. The advantage of this is you do not run the high current the headlights requires through the switch. This current is what causes the connector and switch to fail.
  13. Like
    capemustang reacted to Kris in 69 Convertible build   
    Got the clear all done and unmasked it. Here’s the finished interior paint. 

  14. Like
    capemustang reacted to danno in 1969 tach dash available   
    I just had a talk with the guy about it.  He used to have a car that this came out of, and that car was sold many years ago.  Unfortunately the unique wiring harnesses that go with the tack were sold with that car.   He is going to put it on ebay motors soon, and raise the price.   So if anyone wants this, jump on it now.  Midlife can probably either modify your existing wire harnesses to accept it. 
    The price on ebay will probably be cosiderable more, because of the fees involved. 
  15. Like
    capemustang reacted to Mach1 Driver in hood scoop turn signal with LED bulbs   
    Heres my reasoning:
    1. The car has 41 total lights
    2. Excluding the headlights (there will probably never be LEDs that are DOT approved), the incandescent lights eat up 26.42 amps. LEDs would consume only 4.51A. That's an 83% amperage savings. Yes I know they won't all be on at once, and I know what will be on when I'm driving at night.
    3. The stock alternator is what 35A-38A? Even with the change to LEDs I still need to change to a 95A alternator just to run the stuff I want to upgrade. I won't be running radiator cooling fans because that's another 22A. I will add EFI, an electric fuel pump, power windows, improve the radio output, halogen head lights, MSD 6AL, cruise control, transmission control, and various other amperage sucking devices.
    4. I've run the numbers and the only way not to upgrade to a 130A alternator (which would require a serpentine belt system and electric cooling fans) is to eliminate the incandescent lights. I'm pretty passionate about keeping the stock look, and a serpentine system is definitely not a stock look. 
  16. Like
    capemustang reacted to danno in 70 Mach 1 Hood Scoop Light Question   
    OK, now I understand a bit more.  The connections for the hood scoop lights is (as you said) a 4 wire connector for a 70.  That changes things.  It also changes things because I think the front parking/turn lights are wired different on a 69 and 70.  What you need to disconnect is the front combo turn signal/parking light, not the front side marker light. I am not sure you can disconnect them in a 70.  What you can also do is remove the front combo bulb on both the left and right side.
    There is another easy thing to try that could indicate where the problem is.  This only works if you have an old style flasher.  If you have an electronic flasher installed, it will not work.  But what you need to try is to turn on your left turn signal.  Take a note of the speed it is flashing.  Then turn on your parking lights, and see if the speed of flashing changes.  Do the same with the right turn signal.  If you have a factory style flasher, and the speed of flashing changes with parking lights on, this could be a clue.
    One other question... did this 70 Mach work correctly at one time, and now it is not?  Or has it always worked incorrectly like this?
  17. Thanks
    capemustang got a reaction from Caseyrhe in Life’s Challenges   
    I went through this in 2006. It is very scary. The hardest part can be waiting to hear the biopsy results and what treatment is the best. Take your time to get more information before committing to a course of treatment.  Try to be patient with each other and take care of yourselves--yes, even you as the spouse need to make sure you are ok.  You will get through this together. I will be praying for you and your family.
  18. Like
    capemustang reacted to RPM in Dimming headlights while driving   
    I'd install a relay for the headlights. Takes the heat off the switch and let's the relay do the work. It also increased the brightness of my stock lights. If I can do it,  anyone can. I believe this is how I wired mine. 

    While I was at it, I also did the horn which Mustangs have a history of fire issues with especially after market steering wheels. 

    Just a thought. 
  19. Like
    capemustang reacted to Grabber70Mach in Accelerator linkage hardware   
    This might help you.  

     

  20. Like
    capemustang reacted to danno in electric trunk release   
    I have not used by trunk key in 20 years!  The simplest and best addition to you ride. 
  21. Like
    capemustang reacted to rockhouse66 in Removing knobs from 69 clock   
    Contrary to that thread link, the knobs just unscrew.  Pull the shaft out to full extension, grip the shaft and unscrew the knob.  Since you can buy new knobs, if the removal is really tough you can just grip the shaft with something and gorilla the plastic knob if necessary to unscrew it.  Then use a new knob when you reassemble.
  22. Like
    capemustang reacted to Brian Conway in Removing knobs from 69 clock   
    Thanks for clearing that up.  https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/69-mustang-clock-knob-removal.587881/  Brian 
  23. Like
    capemustang reacted to Rindelmach1 in Fixed 69 mach1 clock   
    I finally got my clock ticking again. After removing my clock to check out why it wasn't ticking, i notice the contact broke off but that was 1 of 2 issues. I ended up soldering it on after 1000 attempts only to find out that the solenoid was burnt out. I found a company that makes the original electromechanical kit and replaced the guts with NOS. I am a stickler for originality and didn't want to convert to quartz.  I'll point out a few things that I'm sure will help the next guy.  The clock set knob does not come off.  I had to take off the sprocket (cog gear) by using a gear puller. Made a small plate with a slit to fit behind the small sprocket and attached a screw to the point of the gear puller so it would fit the tiny post on the gear. Then after a few steps i pulled the guts and replaced them.Kit cost $85 which was well worth it consider broken clocks are going for >$150.  anyone needing advise can reply. thanks

    104-12t electromechanical kit
    https://www.clocksandgauges.com/electric-clock-repair-kit.html
  24. Like
    capemustang reacted to JayEstes in Radio cuts off when turn signal starts   
    OK, I am going to go throw a weird one at you.  Maybe your problem is related to mine, but probably not.  your problem is more likely a connection problem. However,  I had a similar radio cutting out problem with my retrosound, except mine would cut out when I revved the engine from low speed to high, but it only seemed to happen when the car was fresh out of the garage.  Also, if the car was brought back to dead idle, radio would play again -even fresh out of the garage. weird thing was, drive it a few miles, and this cut-out would go away.  
    So, after me living with this for a long while, and pondering it, but not coming up with anything, a friend rides with me and sees this weird behavior and has a genius insight - he says "do you have an original voltage regulator?"  yes.  "well then, I think maybe your radio is seeing unacceptable voltages when the alternator is kicked in at higher RPMS.  The alternator kicks in much more often immediately after the car has started after it's been sitting in garage.  After you drive the car a bit, the battery gets charged up - so alternator not kicking in - and symptom stops.   Maybe you should try a new solid-state VR." 
    Freaking genius insight.  Sure enough, a new solid state VR solved my radio cutting out problem completely.
    Now, in your case, the radio cuts out at low speed - when another electrical system is engaged.  So perhaps the current draw of the blinker system causes the voltage the radio is getting to somehow change to a temporarily unacceptable amount.  Car equilibrates voltages are a few moments and radio comes back on.  At high RPMs voltage is sufficiently regulated to not cause a problem in the circuit.  Do you have an old-style VR with resistors on the back? is a good question to ask if you can't trace it to bad ground or bad connection.

    Above image is what the back of my old VR looked like (I believe it is original with the car).  The new Solid State versions don't look like this.
    Most likely, this is not your problem, but at least I stuck to the "radio cuts out" theme.  Hope this wasn't too much of a thread high-jack!
     
    Jay
  25. Like
    capemustang reacted to CarZombie in Autolite 4300 carb question   
    Just wanted to let every one know that I installed the carb on my Mustang about two weeks ago.  It fired right up on fast idle.  Once warm I adjusted the idle screws to get a smooth idle and drove it.  No problems.  Easy.   I want to thank Daytona Parts Company for the carb kit and more importantly Tim at Daytona Parts for all the tech help he provided to me before and during the rebuild process.   I also want to mention that I used a new float in this rebuild from Mike's Carburetor Parts.  Never had to call them, but the float fit right and seems to be working.  Hopefully it will end the problem I had with the old float taking on gas and screwing up the float level.    I have no interest in these business just hope that some one, some day finds this thread helpful.  
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