capemustang

Thank you. Yes, I was trying to refer to the clutch pivot fork ball. I am very new to this, as I am sure you can tell! As you and others have suggested, I will be rebuilding the clutch linkage to the pedal, including the zbar (equalizer bar) bushings, and related parts. I am thinking that I will also replace the clutch while it's apart. I really appreciate every' help with advice and suggestions.

Thank you very much.

Thank you, that’s a good tip. I took photos to the mechanic. He said that the clutch fork appears to be damaged/worn. Possibly from age/usage and he thinks that is why the nut was welded in the tip of the lower clutch rod. We are going to replace the fork, but he also wanted to replace the pivot ball. I can’t seem to find any for the 1969 . I can find many for other years and they are called a different names-clutch fork pivot ball or clutch fork stud . In a zbar/equalizer bar kit they have a pivot included. Is this what he might be referring to? I am attaching photos of that pivot as well as a photo of my fork.

Thank you very much, I will do as you suggest. The cotter pin washer is missing-I will get one put in. As it was, the original cotter pin snapped (rusted) when I was pulling it out. Thank you very much for your help.

Yes, I think so.

Thank you, Thank you. I think you are correct. I was reading on a couple forums that When installing an adjustable lower clutch rod that you are not supposed to have the nuts straddle the pivot block. Something about it may cause it to snap. Mine original was installed that way. Is that correct? Also, there is a “potato chip” shaped washer between the pivot block and bar that is very old and allows more play-what would be its name and where might I find a replacement?

Thank you. I am glad you mentioned the McLeod. I wondering about them.

I replaced the broken lower clutch rod today. It fit fine and shifted once or twice before the pedal sank to the floor again. I looked underneath to see if the rod was still in position. It was ok, but there was a lot of play where it attaches. Then, I saw that there was another part located nearby which should move that was very loose. I think that this loose part may have caused the previous lower clutch rod to snap and the new one to move out of position. I don’t know what this part is. I am attaching a photo . Can someone help me identify it?

It takes some force but I could do it by hand. It’s a 8 cylinder 302. Thank you for all the great suggestions. I was fine with how the clutch performed beforehand, so would probably not change it. I will talk to the mechanic . Good point about having the parts ready and perhaps returning them if not needed. This is a dumb question regarding buying parts-I want to buy what would be stock parts, but how do I know what is stock? I don’t want to accidentally buy performance. Would it be quite evident in the descriptions for the clutch and other component?again, this may be a stupid question. Thank you for your help.

It appears that the lower clutch rod that snapped had been modified by a PO. They welded a nut on the end where it would meet the clutch fork (image attached). According to one mechanic, it was probably because the fork was getting worn and this was an easier fix. Anyway, this mechanic, who was highly recommended by a fellow mustang owner, suggested that the fork, should be replaced, and that if I was doing that, then I might as well replace the clutch. One of his concerns was that the fork was worn which required the earlier nut welding fix. His recommendation was also based on my experience with how the car performed prior to the rod snapping. He asked if it was ever hard to shift. I told him that it shifted fine but that it required some muscle to shift, I just thought it was the way it should be- a firm clutch. All of my previous mustangs (a few 1966s,a 1970, and another 1969) were all automatic transmissions so I don’t have any idea how a manual transmission should feel. So, for those who might have stock clutches, does your pedal require some muscle to shift? Do you think that it’s worth having the clutch redone while the transmission is open? I would need to order all the parts ahead of time and commit to the repair before I bring it to the shop. I realize that each car is different with how it’s set up based on the different parts, modifications, etc. All I know about mine is that it is a 302 with manual 3 speed and that it should be stock. It runs really well and haven’t had any clutch issues until this week. I wish I had more information. Thank you in advance for your help and advice.

Thank you very much. I appreciate your help.

My lower clutch rod snapped today. Does anyone have a brand preference for replacing it? My car is a 302 . Thank you in advance for your suggestions.

The other part of the parking brake is shown here. Someone had busted the metal part on my 69 (the curved part). It wouldn't connect to the part that engaged the parking brake light. I found a similar one from another year and model. I had to bend it to fit and connect when the parking brake was engaged. It is more difficult to find the one in the image, although Ford installed them in many different models for 1969. I am attaching a discussion that I found about the parking brake light when I was repairing/installing mine two years ago.

attached is a photo of mine. It's a bit dark because it was in the garage. My Marti report says that my car came with the Visibility Group Option: LH remote chrome mirror , glove box lock, lights in the trunk, glove box and ash tray, parking brake warning light, lighted ignition switch

It looks like a hole for the parking warning brake light. The light goes on if your parking brake is engaged. I have the same hole and the parking brake light is installed in it for my 69 convertible. I can take a photo and send it in the morning, if you would like.

Thank you very much. That is good to know. I won't let it take up space in the garage--thank you again.

I recently swapped out my radiator for an aluminum rad and am trying to decide what to do with the older one. The old one is stamped C9ZE C1. My car is a 1969 convertible manual transmission no ac and no power steering mustang. Based on the stamped code, the radiator is for a 1969 manual transmission no ac vehicle. I do not know if this is the original radiator or not. Does anyone have any suggestions about how to determine if this is an original radiator? If it is original, is it worth anything to someone? If it isn't original, is it worth anything? It was leaking before the swap after the car pegged at 280 (temp) so it would possibly need to be recored or repaired. Any suggestions and advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance

With the help of everyone on this website and vintage-mustang forum, I now have functioning turn signal cancellation. Sometimes its the little things in life that make you smile ! I actually did have the same part that Danno posted. The issue was that my earlier steering wheel had an approximate ⅛-¼ inch gap while the new steering wheel hub has an approximate ½ inch gap. The gap prevented the cancellation. I installed two new roll pins which are long enough to reach the cancellation cam. It works well now. Thank you again for your help. I really do appreciate it.

There is only one roll pin but it appears to be too short. I have another set that I am going to transfer over and see if it will work. My steering wheel has a different cancel cam than shown by Danno. My cancel cam is there and appears to be functioning. Thanks to everyone's suggestions, hints, etc., it appears to be the roll pins. I am going to see if I can get them adjusted properly later today or tomorrow.

I need a little help please with my turn signal cancellation issue. I recently installed a new steering wheel on my 1969. The new steering while is a Volante 9 bolt steering wheel (steering wheel and adaptor). After the installation, the turn signals would still cancel although not as good as before the new steering wheel. After two days, they will not cancel at all unless I manually cancel both turn signals (right and left). I have removed the new steering wheel to check the turn signal cancel cam. It is intact and appears to function. I think I have the steering lined up properly but the signal won't cancel. I am not sure what I else I need to do. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

Ford two spoke steering wheel with Horn pad-black. This is an original steering wheel for a Ford Mustang, Fairlane, Torino, or Galaxie. The back of the steering wheel does have some cracks. The horn pad works although there is wear on one side. The center emblem has some wear. It is in good condition, overall. $200 or go. Shipping is extra from 02563.

Ford Mustang Cougar Falcon Original Horn Ring for 1968 1969. $50 (includes shipping to continental USA). This is for a 2 spoke steering wheel. Photos are upside down.

I had a similar issue with my 1969 . It ended up being a combination of the idler arm, worn out bushings for the upper ball joints, and then, needed an alignment. It handles so much better now.

I was wondering if anyone has installed a zlok hood lock (chapman type) or something similar on a 1969. Any suggestions are welcome. Thank you

Thank you. I am trying to get back to it but other things keep coming up. I really appreciate the tips and suggestions.