69ShelbyGT350H

Put a piece of cardboard between the radiator and water pump before you re-install the fan and bolts.  It will save the radiator fins from getting destroyed while you fiddle with getting the fan bolts installed.  Brian

Here is the recommended setup for a fan and shroud. The fan should fit with 50% of the fan in the shroud.

I have scraped up my knuckles more than once installing the fan to the water pump with the shroud in place. You have to put the bolts on the fan, any spacers on the bolts and slip it carefully between the pump and the radiator. Then using an open end or ratchet wrench, tighten the bolts.

Thanks for your help.  Found an Export Brace locally so will fit in the New Year.  For the time being, I'll restore the original ones.
The braces came off easy.  The black / grey paint is thin and no primer.  Using wet and dry to remove the surface rust.

 

Does anyone else have issues when you insert an image all your typed text disappears? 
Yes, an export brace is more rigid. It is a heavy steel single part that replaces the two thin stamped parts. This helps stiffen up the front end and helps with upper shock tower flexing. To stiffen the towers even more in cases where the towers have bent apart or closer together, a Montecarlo bar is used to keep the upper towers in place. This is usually needed when the car is used in motorsports.

Does anyone else have issues when you insert an image all your typed text disappears? 
Yes, an export brace is more rigid. It is a heavy steel single part that replaces the two thin stamped parts. This helps stiffen up the front end and helps with upper shock tower flexing. To stiffen the towers even more in cases where the towers have bent apart or closer together, a Montecarlo bar is used to keep the upper towers in place. This is usually needed when the car is used in motorsports.

Cheater!   :-p

From Kenneth Collins on his FB page https://www.facebook.com/groups/badshoe/
"I’m extending my special deal through Dec. 2017, I’m offering a $5.00 discount on all single DVD and download titles. They are now $25.95 for download or $30.95 for US sales ($50.95 on Canadian sales) with shipping included. To take advantage of this deal, simply select one title under the special deal discount link, thanks……Ken."
Bad Shoe Productions How To Video Series - Ford Transmissions & Rears
I am only a happy customer having purchased his FMX video's and having Ken reply to my stupid transmission questions on his FB page. You may ask him questions too, even if you have not purchased any of his products.

The chips in the paint could be a deal killer if the car was to be a turn key show car. The touch ups do not help the visuals. To fix the Candy paint, the entire panel is going to have to be stripped and repainted in Candy to match the rest of the car. That is going to take time, and money. 
If its going to be a driver, its going to get more chips and dings in it. Candy paint is not for a driver.

Mine weren't shorties, but I didn't like how close the #7 tube came to the power brake booster. The plan was to move the #7 & 8 tubes, but I figured while I was at it...
Latoracing built his own stainless headers and has a real nice write-up on them in his build tread. 
Doing mine was more time consuming than difficult, and gave me a reason to buy another tig welder. 
Before:

After: I also moved the #1 tube a bit as it was too close for my liking to the shock tower. 

No reason for the tube to be this close to the valve cover and brake booster. 

I didn't care for the shape of the #7 tube at the flange. 

So I started fresh and made a round to oval starter tube.

 This was my first attempt at header mods and was much easier that I first thought. Bob, I'm confident you've got the know how and skills to get this done. 

Oh, my repro auto shifter bezel is chrome with black, and repro radio bezel is brown with a chromed trim and a woodgrain sticker over the brown? I'll have to check that brown thing. Make sure you use a Laquer spray for the dark metallic charcoal such as NPD has. https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/mustang_interior_paint_spray_lacquer-107611-2978.html

Lower dash and steering column are dark charcoal metallic and the dash and the lower dash “corners” trims are black.

I thought I would share a clip that was on one of my Aussie Facebook pages. Pretty cool. 
 

Thermostat port is sticking straight up, Cleveland. 

"1969 Mustang Mach I Fastback with original 351 Cleveland "
Huh?

Happy fall everyone!
 

I am fond of Gulfstream Aqua as well. Still wish I had this one.

 

That would not make the fabric part the wire wrapping then.

As it states on the shows WEB page, this will the last year for this show. I have registered and hope to have the car together in time to put it in this show and take it for a drive on the Pony Run the Friday before the show.
 
https://www.npdlink.com/store/pages/ss_ford.html

My 69/70 Exploded View Illustrated Manual shows the same part for fixed and tilt steering columns. No notes for it being different for a 69 or 70.