69ShelbyGT350H

Its been a while, and COVID has slowed things down a little, but I keep taking her out. The 2020 Ponies in the Smokies event was canceled, as was Mustang Week, but there were still about 1000 of us that ended up at Myrtle Beach. I even had a little fun at Darlington Dragway. And yes, there is a new (07 GT500) Snake in the Pit.











Darlington Burnout 1a.mp4

Its been a while, so here are some photos from events and shows.

Its been a while, so here are some photos from events and shows.

Its been a while, so here are some photos from events and shows.

I just Noticed I did not post anything about my PITS / Sevierville Tn trip. I had a great time and the car performed well. Did the poker run, a little drag racing and then 2 days of car show. I was outside both days, it was cool even with the sun out. Its mostly newer cars with only a handfull of 1st gens scattered about. Seems I did not have 2nd gear the entire trip (I trailerd up from Miami) so did not try a Dyno run. But, as I was driving it all over Sevierville/Pigeon Forge, I was noticed by the NPD rep (Holy crap, there is a 69 Shelby driving on the Poker Run!) who decided I deserved the 1st gen NPD Sponsor award. 100 awards were given out and mine was in the top 20. 

So here I am at the drag strip. It had been a misty rain all morning so the track was a little wet. Nobody, even the big tire guys were hooking up on this 1/8 mile track. My trans was auto-shifting from 1st directly to 3rd, but then wanting to downshift to the non existant 2nd gear. So in my last run, you see me get ahead, but then fall back as I am peddling to try to keep it in 3rd.
https://www.redshost.com/media/2019PITS/Video/English_Mountian_Raceway.html
Here is my photo gallery followed by just a few other writeups of the event.
https://www.redshost.com/show/2019PITS/index.html
http://www.mustangandfords.com/news/1903-npd-ponies-in-smokies-brought-mustangs-to-mountains/
https://www.fordmuscle.com/event-coverage/ponies-in-the-smokies-2019/
http://www.mustangandfords.com/news/1904-ssp-mustangs-wow-the-crowd-at-ponies-in-the-smokies-2019/
http://www.mustangandfords.com/news/1904-ponies-smokies-2019-awesome-engine-gallery/
https://www.fordmuscle.com/event-coverage/top-ten-fox-bodies-ponies-in-the-smokies-2019/
https://performance.ford.com/enthusiasts/newsroom/2019/04/ponies-in-the-smokies.html

Here is how you reproduce the not yet reproduced 69-70 parking brake switch.
Make the ABS body and the end by 3D printing.
Make a bending jig to bend the beryllium copper contact to right shape and bend the contact strips.
Heat treat the contact.
Assemble and secure the parts.
You are done.
Changed the original design a little bit so the contact does not break due to fatigue like the originals did.
Cycled the black switch 2500 times on the 70 Cougar pedal I have off the car; it did not brake and did not stop working so installed it on my 69 Grande.
Left to right on the pictures below are; broken original switch, 3D printed ABS parts, contact, final product.
 

Here are all 4 videos combined and on a page with a streaming (embedded) player. http://redshost.com/gt350/video/startup/
Permanent Magnet High Torque mini starter arrived today. It's small and light. Before I installed it, I wanted to get the heat shield in place. I picked up a 12 x 24 sheet of 22ga sheet metal from Home Depot. I transferred my template to it and cut it out with my cutoff tool. Bent it, curved it, beat a curved edge into it, and did a few test fits. Turns out I need to trim a few areas where the bolts go through as the shield is hitting the block and trans cooler lines.

From under the metal dash and looking over the metal dash with the pad off, you can remove the plastic ducts from the back of the vents. They will pull off the clips toward the front of the car and then slip off the cloth and/or plastic vent tubing. Remove the elbows from the back, out the bottom of the dash. Each vent has 3 Phillips screws on the back side. Using a shorty Phillips screwdriver you have to work blind or use a mirror and you can back them out or totally remove them. If loosened, turn the back mount clockwise while holding the vent against the dash. Once the vent mount cup is off the front of the vent will come out of the metal dash. 
To re-install, put the 3 screws in each vent a couple of turns. Put the vent into the metal dash and then the vent cup in the back, sliding the cup over the 3 screws. Rotate the vent cup to lock it over the 3 screws and then tighten the Phillips screws. Attach the elbows to the ducting and then press back onto the vents.
I just had to take my vents back out after mounting the metal dash on the car as I had not installed the dash wiring first. Wiring needs to go first. The rear harness to dash harness attaches behind the drivers side A/C vent, so it had to come out. The passenger door wiring comes out behind the passenger A/C vent, it is next for me.
 

I rebuilt my under dash A/C box and replaced the evaporator and heater core with parts from NPD. I purchased the Classic Air/Original Air 69-70 Mustang/Cougar A/C Compressor Upgrade Kit V8 STAGE-1, which did not include the condenser or expansion valve. This kit is $499. They also offer a 69-70 Mustang/Cougar A/C Performance Upgrade Kit V8 STAGE-2 kit that includes the condenser, Sight Glass Hose, and expansion valve. This kit is $799. I got the Stage 1 kit and shopped around for the other parts and got them for less than the cost of the Stage 2 kit. I see they offer a satin black compressor for an additional $75. Get a can of satin spray paint for less than $7. Along with the compressor, I also painted all the nuts and bolts.
Test fitting before painting all the parts.
 
After

Almost finished

I rebuilt my under dash A/C box and replaced the evaporator and heater core with parts from NPD. I purchased the Classic Air/Original Air 69-70 Mustang/Cougar A/C Compressor Upgrade Kit V8 STAGE-1, which did not include the condenser or expansion valve. This kit is $499. They also offer a 69-70 Mustang/Cougar A/C Performance Upgrade Kit V8 STAGE-2 kit that includes the condenser, Sight Glass Hose, and expansion valve. This kit is $799. I got the Stage 1 kit and shopped around for the other parts and got them for less than the cost of the Stage 2 kit. I see they offer a satin black compressor for an additional $75. Get a can of satin spray paint for less than $7. Along with the compressor, I also painted all the nuts and bolts.
Test fitting before painting all the parts.
 
After

Almost finished

The Sanden compressors put much lower stresses on the belt due to its higher efficiency and 7-piston variety for R-134 wobbly plate layout vs the York's 2-piston on a crankshaft construction. Sanden's are a little quieter. The Sandens are so popular because they operate smoothly, with a minimum amount of torque required to operate, because the load is distributed over multiple short-stroke cylinders. The Sanden compressor has another characteristic which we like, especially for street rods: its short stroke, low-displacement-per-cylinder configuration tends to make it less efficient at low RPM ranges (1200 and below), the same speed at which our engine-driven radiator fans are least efficient. This puts less heat load on the condenser and consequently on the radiator at idle speeds. On the average classic car requiring a smaller sized condenser, that is a blessing. Above 1200 RPM, efficiency rapidly increases; at operating speeds of 1800 to 2400 RPM it is about the most efficient pump on the market. It can be operated at continuous crank speeds of 6000 RPM. These characteristics make the Sanden an almost ideal performance compressor. The York compressor is a two cylinder, reciprocating pump. The reciprocating motion causes it to vibrate more than modern Sanden compressors. The York also has higher torque requirements for peak pumping, and they don’t like higher RPM operating speeds.

Get as much ready to paint with the pen as you can as the tip tends to dry out after sitting a bit. Takes a lot of pumping to get the paint out sometimes. The tip is spring loaded. Place the pen tip down and start pressing/pumping it until the paint starts flowing. Mine is now a couple months old and the paint in the tip has dried up. I have to pump some out near where the pen meets the tip, wipe the paint on some newspaper and then dip the tip into it to use the pen. I'm on my 2nd pen as the first one dried up after a couple of uses and now no more paint comes out.

Got mine from Amazon, Krylon K09902A00 Leafing Pens, Silver.33 Ounce
https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K09902A00-Leafing-Silver-33-Ounce/dp/B00448INW6/
 
 

Looks like you are running a few months behind my build. 
 

View my build photo album by clicking on the image

Got mine from Amazon, Krylon K09902A00 Leafing Pens, Silver.33 Ounce
https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K09902A00-Leafing-Silver-33-Ounce/dp/B00448INW6/
 
 

After removing from the dash, there are 3 pins holding the rear ring on. Using a flat chisel, I carefully tapped the rear ring off the pins. On re-assembly I tapped the rear ring back onto the pins, then used a punch to spread the pins back out to make sure they held securely. My 2nd vent actually had the pins replaced with 3 small screws, there were remnants of the pins still. I never knew anyone had my dash apart before.

Thanks for all your hard work Ben. It's a thankless job but we all appreciate you keeping this site alive.

I can probably recover the majority of the images if I had the time.  It's a big job to go through the backups though.  But I need to look into another hosting company which is a process to get everything switched over.  I'll keep y'all posted.

I personally don't like FB groups over forums for subject matter like what we have here. This is much more organized, searchable, personable. VMF started a FB page a while back, and I refuse to join it. 
just my $.02

Just try to follow a build or two on the FB version, its all over the place. So many non qualified that give their personal opinion on subjects they really have very little knowledge on. As I said, it's just my personal opinion, I don't like it. No problem if you do, so do 
24,754 Members +694 in the last 30 days https://www.facebook.com/groups/vintagemustangforum//

It's not quite that simple.
What are you trying to achieve and how will you be driving/using the car?
Are you going to change the cam?
So you have dished pistons or flat top?
Do the pistons have 2 or 4 valve reliefs?
Has the block been zero decked?
How much money ya got?

I personally don't like FB groups over forums for subject matter like what we have here. This is much more organized, searchable, personable. VMF started a FB page a while back, and I refuse to join it. 
just my $.02

Forgot to add this, but Nor Cal had a meet up a few months ago, a friend of mine was recording. but its good to see classic ponies still driving around.
 

Mods on the shield made and painted with high temp sating black ceramic engine paint. Got it bolted in place and it looks pretty good. Its not touching anything other than the 2 mounting bolt holes/bolts. Hooked the starter wires up and w/o the ignition turned on it cranked the engine right over. Hooked up the coil and it fired right up. Ran it for another 25 min to finish the cam break-in. I did stall it at one point when I had slowed it down to check the idle timing, and it did fire right back up. No slow spin at all.