69ShelbyGT350H

Interesting, I think I kept most everything I took off the car and I have nothing like that. per the description, it does seem to the be correct part for that location. I'll add it to my next order.

For comparison purposes, I deleted your other photos and added the one of mine that has mostly the same view as yours. I see your cable comes out and runs behind the transmission floor support and is attached via a clip to the smaller of the two holes on the driver's side support. I do have more cable than shown, just have not run it up and through the firewall yet. Its pretty stiff and I am trying not to make too sharp of a bend in it. The clip holding the cable on the left side of the picture is the original clip, never removed from the floor during my restoration. To help with the bend further back by the trans cross member support I might turn it 180 degrees, improper but it would move the cable further from the H pipe and allow for a larger radius to enter the trans behind the mount. I will also have to look into the clip as in your photo on the trans cross member support. Thank you for taking the time to take and post the photos. It's really interesting that no other 69/70 FMX build has this detail. David View my build photo album by clicking on the image

If you were closer I'd tell you to bring it over. Noting like a little "competition" to help with the motivation.

I found this video by CJ Pony. A mistake they made is that as the threaded rod is attached to the center link, do not hit directly on the threaded rod with a hammer. Thread the castle nut back on enough so that it can take the impact of the hammer, and not the rod, causing damage to the threads when you go to put your new idler arm and castle nut on.

The JBA's are Ceramic coated, the H pipe is SS, and the rest is aluminum coated. The entire firewall, floor and roof were sprayed with Lizzard Skin CI. The firewall to the floor has Dynamat followed by the factory firewall pad, and then the rest of the floor has the factory style tar sound deadener mats from ACC. The carpet is the fully Jute backed version from ACC as well. A dissipation of heat from the exhaust tubes is desired as the exhaust travels to the back of the car when you do not have the same diameter tubing from the front to back such as I do. As the gasses cool so does the density which effectively reduces the amount of air flow and, reduces the need for larger pipes. Though I do have the JBA 1653SJT shorty headers, to keep the factory look I have gone with a factory type exhaust from the H pipe back, but used the 428's 2.25" pipe instead of the 351w's 2.0" pipe. The pipes are close, but not touching anything under the car, so there will be no rattles, and no direct contact heat exchange. The car is being built for fun, not as a race car, not as a daily driver. If I was not here telling you all about the mods to it, most of you would walk up to it at a show or on the street and say its an all original Shelby that looks like it just came off the showroom floor after a couple of test drives. And that is the intention. You're going to have to get on your hands and knees to inspect it, get your head deep into the engine compartment to see more than just the squared off radiator and Sandon A/C compressor. As unless you are going to take wrenches to it so you can look deeper, your not going to see what I've done to it, with a casual observation. Also, how many people ceramic coat their entire exhaust system?

Wish I could remember, I had the entire suspension and steering out of the car when I took it off. But then, I have one of those 12 ton Harbor Freight presses and it can move a lot of things that don't want to move. I might have used that to press it out. Or, it may have been so worn it just pulled out. The center link pin goes through the metal shaft that is in the rubber bushing, so heat is out. Some penetrating oil and a BFH might knock it loose. Mine was an oily mess, and I dreaded working on it. View my build photo album by clicking on the image

Here is what I am currently dealing with. Its not touching now, but I am sure once the exhaust gets hot it will sag down and sit right on the pipe. I cant leave it this way even if this is correct and will find a way to re-route it. View my build photo album by clicking on the image

Agree, pricey, but you will never have to replace it again. That's the Open Tracker one on the left side of the photo. View my build photo album by clicking on the image

I replaced my factory 24" radiator with an aluminum one and found that the rubber insert was going to to have to be totally removed for the bracket to fit over the top of the radiator. Figuring I am going to have to cut and lengthen it (your B dimension), I purchased a cheap repro from NPD to cut up. How surprised I was when it arrived, and its "B" dimension is larger than my factory stock one, for a 24" 351w with all the options. I then took my repro rubber insert and using a box/razor knife, thinned the rubber down so it fits in the bracket and over the radiator. Yes, be careful, I did need 2 band-aids after that process. In the below photo, these are the repro parts, the factory rubber would have little rubber dots that stick out of the holes on top of the "B" section. This is not bolted down so it is still up off the radiator. Ford also added a pair of hex headed screws in the bracket that go into holes in the front radiator support to help hold it down. You can see the holes in the repro bracket and the one hole under the bracket in front of the radiator cap. The two bolts at the front alone were not doing a good enough job. I'll have to get back to you with all the dimensions and the part# from NPD if you are interested. Update on the NPD Part: 8A193-2BBRACKET, Upper radiator Saddle, repro, fits 24 inch radiator, improved design, better stamping, more correct appearance with stamped tabs in the support like the original part, C9ZZ-8A193-B, D0ZZ-8A193-A$29.95 Appears to be a Scott Drake part

Other than A/C compressor brackets, I do have another area that I am in need of some assistance. As I took the car apart in the late 80's - early 90's, I do not remember the routing of the speedometer cable where it comes out of the transmission and runs forward toward the firewall. I currently have it running in front of the driver's side transmission mount but it is very close to the exhaust in that area. Remember that this is the FMX transmission and on the driver's side the crossmember only contacts the floor mount on the back side of the mount. The passenger side the cross member contacts both the front and back of the floor mount. I forgot to take a photo of the area I am talking about so will do that later. I have searched the internet but do not seem to be able to find the correct FMX setup. Might anyone be able to provide some guidance in this area? Thanks. View my build photo album by clicking on the image

Worked on the exhaust the past couple of days. It's a 351w so the factory would have put a small block 2" exhaust on it. I complicated things by instead, installing the larger big block 2.25" exhaust, and as you all know, the JBA Shorties and 2.5" H pipe. I did have to have the 2.25" pipes modified slightly, 1st to match up to the H pipe, and 2nd, to remove the restrictive reduction where the pipes exit the muffler for the tips to be added. In my case, the Shelby exhaust collector accepts a 2.25" pipe so the restricted area for the adapter pipe (yes, even the GT500's got one) was cut off and a 2.25" pipe was welded on removing all the small pipe restrictions. I did dimple the H pipe for more clearance around the back of the trans pan so the pipes fit up very tightly and will have no interference with other items. Had to remove the rear shocks and do a lot of manipulation to get the transverse muffler with all 4 tubes in place, but we did it. It only took 3 people about an hour just for that part. View my build photo album by clicking on the image

Still not sure my AC brackets are on correctly. Going to have to take the compressor off (it's only on for fitment) to get the distributor hold down bolt on!

Physically I was OK. I was going less than 5 mph through an intersection that I entered under a green light. A car in front of me blocked me causing me to stop in the intersection and the light changed while I sat there. They cleared and I then continued to clear the intersection that I had legally entered and now have the legal right to exit. I had previously crossed the 3 eastbound lanes OK, and only had the 3 westbound lanes to go. The first two had cars in them, and they saw me and were waiting. The last lane was void of traffic. Just as I got to that last lane, a speeding Chevy truck entered the intersection and hit the front passenger corner as seen in the photo. The impact was so hard that my car started a counterclockwise rotation, the passenger rear corner of my car hit the front of one of the waiting cars knocking its grill out. The impact pulled my car alongside the truck, where its rear bumper entered my passenger rear wheel opening pulling the car around even more and then ripping the quarter panel between the wheel opening and door almost off the car. My car has spun about 270 deg in the intersection. Both front fenders were pushed back over the front edged of the doors and under the hood. Both rear quarters were under the trunk lid. Both the roof and floor had a wrinkle running diagonally across the car. Surprisingly, no glass broke, and as the impact was on the passenger side, I was safely in my driver's seat, with the seatbelt on for the entire ride. I suffered no injuries. I originally did not think the damage was that bad till I found I could not get out of the car. Climbing out the driver's window, my heart sank more and more as I was able to see the extent of the damage. I was initially given a traffic ticket for running the red light, causing the accident. I was finally able to talk to the car that I had knocked the grill out of and they concurred that there was a car that had blocked me causing me to stop IN the intersection under a green condition for me. With this information, they guessed that I was not speeding, trying to beat the traffic light as a 19 y/o with a fast muscle car and that the truck was speeding. The ticket was dismissed, and as the truck driver was not ticketed, the insurance company (State Farm) raised my rates for the next 5 years. Yea, don't get me started on insurance companies. May none ever have to go through what I did. Stay safe out there.

Would you be happy if the seat of the pants felt good, but then you got it home and checked and found it was only a 302 or 331? If the 347 is a selling point ($$), and you are ready to buy the car, I'd stop before signing anything and handing over any money and pull a plug. If the seller is against that, try walking away and see what the seller has to say. If it's not a selling point, and you'd be happy with a smaller motor, then it's up to you if you want to make the purchase. But that's just me.

I was 18, officially my 2nd car but only by 1 week. Gulfstream Aqua, 351w 4bbl 4 speed close ratio top loader with an open 3.0 9". No PS, PB or AC. It was a driver! I bought it back from the insurance company, but everything was bent. Roof, floor, all 4 fenders. I stripped it and the mangled body went to the crusher. Might have done things differently today. I hate to see it gone but at least I got an upgrade. From there I purchased my 69 428CJ Mach 1. I sold it to a friend, hated to see that one go as well, but well, the 69 ShelbyGT350 was/is my dream car. Edit: yes, it was a real GT. I even got the argent 14" rims, trim rings and GT caps for it. View my GT350 build photo album by clicking on the image

Along the lines of engine cooling... Overkill, but not bad for a higher build street engine? I've done a few overkill things to my car, I have no issue as long as it's not too crazy or expensive. Not too many in my situation, but maybe some that are close. 69 351w that's now 060 over. They say the fill helps strengthen the bottom end and the thin-walled (large bored) cylinders. Per the article, a 1/2 fill will work on a street engine, so they say. A full fill is for race engines. The newer epoxy fill is better than the old concrete style, but, still almost impossible to remove once put in. The block can still be machined as normal, bored, sleeved if needed. If you are not building a daily driver, or a real race engine (as in my case), I wonder if less than a 1/2 fill would be beneficial to the block in terms of adding strength. I'm talking a factory cast motor that's going to make 400-500 HP at the flywheel/flexplate. Per the article, there is very little effect on block cooling with 1/2 fill. Had to add that to keep the post on topic, but I do also think its an interesting thought/idea. :-) View my build photo album by clicking on the image

I see progress, even when it is 2 steps forward and 1 back. Believe me, I know this process very well. View my build photo album by clicking on the image

Miss mine very much. Seeing yours takes me back to my teens. Photo taken in 1979. Mustang totaled by a Chevy truck doing 50mph that failed to yield right of way 1981.

Open Tracker (OT) roller perches, OT DYI Roller UCA kit w/boxing, OT DYI roller LCA kit w/boxing, Arning Drop, Prothan upper spring and strut rod bushings. TransAm lower tower dog bone brace. Hoping it will ride nice. :-) View my build photo album by clicking on the image

Sorry, taking this on a slightly larger tangent, but has anyone read this and what do you think about a partial fill for a high-performance street engine as most of us are discussing here? http://www.onallcylinders.com/2018/04/30/mailbag-can-you-use-block-filler-to-improve-engine-cooling-and-bottom-end-strength/

Has anyone used other products such as Water Wetter? If so, any comments good or bad? WATERWETTER® Unique agent for cooling systems that doubles the wetting ability of water Rust and corrosion protection allows for use of straight water in racing or reduced antifreeze levels in warm climates Improves heat transfer and reduces cylinder head temperature May allow more spark advance for increase power and efficiency Use one bottle for most passenger cars and light trucks, treats 3 to 5 gallons or 13.2 to 15.9 liters, vehicles with larger cooling systems should use two bottles, small cooling systems should use 1oz (3 to 4 capfuls) per quart Compatible with new or used antifreeze (including DEX-COOL® and long-life versions) to improve the heat transfer of ethylene and propylene glycol systems Satisfies ASTM D2570 and ASTM D1384 corrosion tests for glycol-based antifreezes Contains no ethylene glycol

Correct, the boiling point of water, normally 212° F, is raised 3° F for every 1 psi. of additional pressure. A typical 15 psi. cap, will hold the water in the system up to about 257 degrees F. This does not mean there is no boiling in the engine up to this temperature, but it is the point, up to which the cap will contain the expansive nature of the vapor. A 15 lb cap with 50% water 50% Ethylene Glycol will raise the boiling point to 267°F . Evans Waterless recommends 1 to 2 psi., enough to close the system and still maintain a boiling point of over 375°F with no boiling in the engine at all. Another plus, less pressure on your cooling /heating system. Less chances of blowing a hose, causing a leak in your heater core and or radiator. The down side, if you do get a leak, loose an effective amount of Waterless, adding water will remove all the positive effects of the Waterless coolant. Maybe you can share how to make our own at a much lower cost? Is it as effective? Edit: my previous comment of the boiling point to 223°F was w/o a pressure cap and strictly the boiling point of water with coolant.

I took the grey/silver KYB Gas-A-Just shock, stripped them and painted them white. Have them installed but as the car is not done yet, I am really looking forward to how they make the car handle. I have the extra Shelby leaf (AO Smith factory item) in the back and upgraded the front suspension to Open Tracker roller bearings on the perch, uca, and lac with the 1" Arning drop. All bushings front and rear are Prothane. Once the car is built and has a chance to settle, I'll be adding the Shelby Under Ride bars as well.

I need to keep my eye on this one. Similar to my build, specs wise anyway. I'm going to give Evans Waterless a try. Water turns into steam at 212°F. Mixing traditional ethylene glycol antifreeze with water in a 50-50 ratio increases the boiling point to 223°F, which is close to the operating temperature of an engine. Evans waterless coolants have a boiling point of over 375°F, far above the operating temperature of the engine. They say it runs about 10deg warmer but has less pressure in the system and no electrolysis to eat up the metals. No 2 year life expectancy either. But for best results, you have NO water in the system. Max the allow is 3% for it to work. Pricey though, at about $47 a gallon. Got mine on sale a year or so back for about ½ that price from a BMW dealer.