69ShelbyGT350H

Thanks for the explanation. Sorry to those that lost images.

New starter works great. It started right up and I was able to finish the 30 minute cam break-in. At one point, some white smoke came out of the exhaust, and then quit. I changed the oil and filter. Cut open the filter and did not find any shiny objects. More recently, a friend stopped by and I ran the engine again, for the 3rd time for him. Once again, white smoke came out of the exhaust for a little bit. You can see it in the following video. Otherwise it seems to be running great. http://redshost.com/media/GT350R3rdRun/

I try to look at several Concours restored cars and see what they have where. You'r going to end to tossing a few of those decals you purchased in the kit as well. Beware, not everything you see is correct. Here is one I use for reference for many items. Some decals and locations might vary depending on assembly plant. http://photos.mustangsbymike.com/Mach-1-Candy-Apple-Red.

All original sail panels were installed before the rear window, so the upper edge of the panel is held in place by the rear window gasket.

1st, there are differences between a 69 and 70 doors, if you look for them. http://anghelrestorations.com/uploads/3/5/1/2/35122002/1969_1970_doors_v1.1.pdf NPD's doors are good, but not great. The upper hinges needed to have the holes elongated as the door's mount does not have enough adjustment. The holes for the rear screw in the door handle do not line up well. The opening for the lock had to be filed out a little. The 4 holes to mount the window regulator do not line up well. I found the upper flat horizontal edge of the doors to be a little wavy. They had minor waves in the outer sheet metal. Otherwise, they were a good fit, straight and well built. They have more of a 69 door look than a 70. Drivers door in the next pix is the original that I ended up replacing with an NPD door due to serious rust that compromised the lower door hinge mount area.

Mods on the shield made and painted with high temp sating black ceramic engine paint. Got it bolted in place and it looks pretty good. Its not touching anything other than the 2 mounting bolt holes/bolts. Hooked the starter wires up and w/o the ignition turned on it cranked the engine right over. Hooked up the coil and it fired right up. Ran it for another 25 min to finish the cam break-in. I did stall it at one point when I had slowed it down to check the idle timing, and it did fire right back up. No slow spin at all.

Here are all 4 videos combined and on a page with a streaming (embedded) player. http://redshost.com/gt350/video/startup/ Permanent Magnet High Torque mini starter arrived today. It's small and light. Before I installed it, I wanted to get the heat shield in place. I picked up a 12 x 24 sheet of 22ga sheet metal from Home Depot. I transferred my template to it and cut it out with my cutoff tool. Bent it, curved it, beat a curved edge into it, and did a few test fits. Turns out I need to trim a few areas where the bolts go through as the shield is hitting the block and trans cooler lines.

And as in bigmal's lower photo (can't see it in mine), the screw should then hold the AC box up to the cowl via a bracket. I needed assistance getting the upper right bolt through the firewall (Upper left in the photo) I used the repro thin gasket on the inside of the firewall (I think they meant for it to be on the outside) and then the original gasket on the outside followed by the metal plates. I put the original hard rubber gaskets in a pot of boiling water to soften them up them enough to get around the new heater and A/C hoses. They did crack a little more than they were but at least they were still usable.

https://www.npdlink.com/product/gasket-set-heater-box-repro-kit-includes-some/103212/457

Looks a little tall. Mine was about 1", has a "D" shape to it.

It wants to start, but not quite. http://redshost.com/gt350/video/GT350-1.mp4 The starter is not always engaging, going to have to replace it. Got it running, forgot to start the camera to catch it but it fired right up and ran. http://redshost.com/gt350/video/GT350-2.mp4 It smoked white smoke out the exhaust for a bit, but eventually quit. http://redshost.com/gt350/video/GT350-3.mp4 It got a little rough, looked down and saw a wire came off the cap. Shut it down and it did not want to spin fast enough to start again. Change the battery and had the same issue. Guessing my pre 1990 started has had it. http://redshost.com/gt350/video/GT350-4.mp4 Sorry, the date on the camera is a little off.

Got all the liquids in and wanted to prime the fuel pump and fill the carb. 6 gallons of REC 90 in the tank but after several attempts, no fuel was flowing. Several checks reveal that the fuel hard fuel line is plugged someplace and there is no damage to the line. I ordered a new SS 3/8 line and just got it installed.

I seem to have problems with this forum where when after adding photos if I try to then add text between or elsewhere in the post text seems to disappear and other areas seem to move to other areas of the message.

After stripping my interior out several years ago, I finally have my A/C Heater box back in. Next is the blower and the ductwork. Lizzard Skin CI was sprayed from the firewall to the rear seat area. Dynamat added from the top of the firewall to the floorboard. The tar and paper sound deadener that I purchased with the ACC carpet is then put down followed by the carpet. The original firewall pad was repaired a bit and installed followed by Pink insulation under the cowl to replace the yellow stuff that FORD put in, and the disintegrated many years ago. Overkill on the insulation?

I installed the Mr.Gasket gaskets along with the intake. I let it set 24 hours after doing all the proper torquing of the 16 intake bolts and before doing another pressure test. This time it's leaking out the thermostat housing against the intake. Another issue of the aluminum intake corrosion. I took the thermostat housing off and used 180 grit then 220 grit sandpaper on a block to flatten the intake's thermostat opening out and get as much good flat metal for the seal as possible. After re-installing the thermostat housing and hooking up all the hoses I did an air pressure test again. Spraying the components down with soapy water showed only minor foaming, but no bubbling at the gasket joints. As water (or Evans Waterless in this case) is harder to pass through areas that air can go, I decided to go ahead and fill the cooling system with the Evans Waterless and let it sit another 24 hours before doing another pressure test. This will allow the liquid to soak into the paper gaskets and hopefully allow them to swell, sealing off any other of these small openings that the air was using to escape. Per Evans, I can use a 2lb cap on the radiator. This will drastically reduce the chances of liquid being forced out between the gaskets, stress on the heater core and all the rubber hoses and their connections via the hose clamps. And as it is not water, the continuation of corrosion and electrolysis will not be present.

Working towards getting the engine started, got the trans fluid in, power steering pump filled and leaks in the ram fixed. Before putting the Evans Waterless in I decided to pressure check the cooling system with air and found a leak at the driver's side front water passage. The Fel Pro gaskets have a cutout that will allow water to exit the engine in the event of a water passage leak. This is where the air was leaking out of the cooling system. Looking at the intake, there is a lot of corrosion around the edges of the water port, and it seems this allowed water air to get past the thin area at the bottom of the water port and into the discharge cutout. I have switched to a Mr.Gasket 210 intake gasket that does not have the water path cutout and the water port is now sealed.

My cans are in fairly good shape so I used that spray on flex-seal stuff to give them a fresh rubber seal coat. I have the assembly manual and got a diagram when I purchased the new vacuum line kit.

I had to take a few things apart as I forgot that the brake line had to go under the A/C and heat lines, behind the engine and under the power brake booster. With that taken care of, I finished installing the radiator and have all the heater hoses in place. Ended up missing 1 hose clamp. Did not what to "modify" my original throttle bracket as I found its worth about $90, so I purchased and modified a Holley replacement part. Hot air snorkel is almost complete

Wow, surprised to see such a collection over there, and sad to see it go as well. Hope all items will go to a good home and not just stashed away never to be seen again.

My cooling system is going to run at 2 psi. I'll be using Evans Waterless Coolant . Lots of pro's and cons, but I'm using it. Adding the flair to the fuel line is a safety feature. Finally got the climate control box fully rebuilt and in the car. New high-density evaporator, expansion valve and aluminum heater core. All metal parts sandblasted, painted, and a new seal kit installed. I had to do some repairs to the box due to cracking in various areas. I used the repro firewall seal on the inside of the firewall, and the original rubber on the outside to help make for a better insulated seal. I went a little overboard due to the use of the JBA headers. I used Lizzard Skin CI on the inside of the passenger cabin, from the under the cowl, down the inside of the firewall, across the floor pan to the rear seat. Then sprayed the roof. I then added Dynamat to the inside of the firewall, followed by the factory firewall pad. The factory style carpet has the attached jute padding, and I also put down the factory tar type insulation panels under that. I added 1" of pink insulation to the underside of the roof, and under the cowl. Overkill? I am expecting some extra engine noise I'd rather keep it out of the passenger cabin, and I want the A/C to work GREAT! I am in Florida after all. Proper "S" hose and heater control valve has been installed. The proper Ford striped heater hose and clamps as well.

Wish I could do that "bump", all I could do was to flare it a little with a basic flaring tool so that when a clamp is put on the hose won't just slide off the fuel line. The mechanical pump I installed is supposed to be a 7psi 80gph pump, so I hope to not have to worry about the line blowing off.

Thanks, only took me 2 tries. My first line crimped on the 1st bend as I was using the wrong size slot on the bender. Then it was just a lot of test fitting getting all the angles right. In the top view of the motor, you can see the line between the water neck and the coil. I added a little flare to the end of the line after it was in place. Just need to add a rubber line to get it to the dual input line for the carb.

I totally understand, had to constantly be on the guys when I had my car in a shop and I was paying them to do the work. Hope you have better luck than I did. Progress is progress though!

I've always like the look of the 69 tail lights over the 70. Nice looking lights.

After weeks of playing with A/C and P/S brackets, install and remove the A/C compressor many times, I think I finally have it on for good. Due to the change to the Holley HP 750 carb I had to make a new fuel line that goes to the passenger side instead of ending on the driver side. Mimicked the factory line out of the pump as it needs to clear the P/S pump hoses before it goes up and under where the lower factory A/C bracket attaches. Instead of popping up on the driver's side of the intake it crosses over the timing chain cover and up on the passenger side. I lost count of haw many times I've had the brackets, compressor, belts, etc off before I finally got to this point. Also had the radiator in, and took it back out as well. Issues with the fan hitting the lower side of the shroud, as it was hitting the trans cooler lines and lower radiator hose. View my build photo album by clicking on the image