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69ShelbyGT350H

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Posts posted by 69ShelbyGT350H

  3. Posted · Report reply

    11 hours ago, 1969_Mach1 said:

    Yeah, the early Windsor timing chain covers were like.  On later model and replacement timing covers the front crank seal installs from the front not the back.  It's worth the upgrade unless you want the original look.  But, I think he is working with a Cleveland motor.

    I know he is working with a Cleveland and posted as such before. I also stated I am not familiar with the Cleveland as I am the Windsor. I am not sure why you have to be concerned with the actual look of the cover when the issue at hand is the leaking seal, and that is all I was trying to point out. But as you seem to know all this better than I do, I will step aside and stop making incorrect comments. Its not the first time you have criticized my comments and I doubt it will be last unless I just stop posting on this forum. So best to all of you!

  6. Posted · Report reply

     
     
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    3 hours ago, Cantedvalve said:

    ... Hopefully it is my familiarity with this engine that made me miss/skip something stupid and cause this headache.

    Yep. One of my mistakes was firing order. The old 280H had the 289/302 firing order and that is what I kept using on the new 280H cam. The engine ran poorly, 4 black plugs 4 white plugs. Exhaust port temps varied greatly. Helps to read the instructions that came with the new cam and the new firing order.

  7. Posted · Report reply

    18 hours ago, Cantedvalve said:

    I think you are on it. I’m gonna pull the wires off completely and start over.

    And to answer the question, the timing pointer is on 0 TDC with the timing marks on the gears lined up. Everything looks right.

    So it sounds like it is assembled correctly. Not sure how you are getting a reading of the timing so far off unless you had the timing light trigger on the wrong wire or the wires are not in the correct firing order. Not sure that re-degreeing your cam is going to do anything for you. When degreeing my cam, I found my pointer is about 4 deg off from 0 on the damper. Got one of those strip timing tapes and put it on so Zero lines up with the marker. It's a Summit harmonic and possible the wrong timing marking on the timing cover, but it all measured out OK thanks to the degree wheel.

    I have one of those blue 1 piece oil pan gaskets. Really nice but I have to drop the front of the pan to get the timing chain cover to seal with it. I will install the damper before I tighten the cover bolts so I can do a better job centering the damper seal. 

  10. Posted · Report reply

     
     
     
     
     
     
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    51 minutes ago, Cantedvalve said:

    Okay. I quit

    i have the front of the engine off. The timing marks on the gears line up perfectly. I am not off a tooth. I am also not inept at assembly. At least I have that going for me.

    At top dead center. Rotor points at #3 wire. That means the base timing on the ignition is approximately 45* advanced.  I am tempted to try degreeing this thing again. I installed it straight up.

    argh! What else should I be looking for?

    You did not mention where your timing pointer is at with the marks lined up?

    AT TDC the rotor is pointing at #3? Can you turn it so its pointing at #1? With the motor at TDC, pull the distributor and put it back in so the rotor points to about 12 O'clock looking at it from the front of the car. That should be about where #1 wire is at. If you have a vacuum advance, that should be pointing about 6 O'clock. 

    eb3f377022153bb2a4a7e375f965c9de.jpg

    I know, you might have done it already, but here are some things I can suggest, in a random order that I am thinking of them. Check your wires for proper firing order. Check your cam specs and make sure this is the correct firing order. Make sure the wire tips are still connected to the wires, and that each has a positive connection to both the rotor cap and plug. Pull your plugs and see if they are all a uniform color. Make sure you do not have any intake or carb vacuum leaks. Do you have a vacuum gauge to check the intake manifold vacuum? Check for a non-firing cylinder, check the temp of each exhaust port with a temp gun or water bottle with a small hole in it to create a small stream of water. 

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Sorry, I have not been following your entire issue, but you said you replaced the cam due to a wiped lifter/lobe? I recently did the same thing but as I was destroying distributor gears. It was determined that the gear on the cam was bad and so I order a replacement CompCams 280H. After installing I could not get the engine to run well at all. 4 clean plugs and 4 black plugs. I checked firing order, valve lash, and yes, even pulled the timing chain cover to see if I had somehow missed a tooth when I put the new gear set on. It was all good. I had purchased my 280H back in the late 80's, and it used a 289/302 firing order. Turns out, the new cam Summit sent me, is also a 280H, but its the 351w/302HO firing order. They made a new version since I had purchased the original and when I asked for the same cam, I guess they assumed I had the newer version and so sent me that. So all I had to do was go back to the 351 firing order and it woke right up. 

     

    That will not explain your timing mark being so far off unless you have the trigger on the wrong spark plug wire. When installing the gear set, the crank key is usually straight up, as well as the dot on the crank sprocket. If you can pull the harmonic bolt and see the keyway in the crank you can get a pretty good idea if your harmonic balancer has spun or not. Straight up your 0 timing mark should be at your timing pointer. As you know from degreeing the cam, even pulling the valve cover and watching the rockers will not tell you if the cam is a tooth off. But, if its 60 degrees off, you can see by rotating the crank in each direction and noting how far till the intake and exhaust rockers move, that you will be able to see if it really is that far off.

    I miss my gear drive, but replaced it to see if it was what was causing my distributor gears to fail. It was not the problem.

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  14. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, 70Mach1rb said:

    Nice. I need to get a distributor for my 351 but not sure what to get. What type did you get for your engine here?

     

    Did you build this? What size? How many hp?

    Rick

    A proper one for your 70 would be an Autolite single or dual diaphragm. Guess it makes a difference if you have that heat operated valve by the thermostat or not. 

     

    https://www.npdlink.com/search/products?search_terms=distributor&top_parent=200001&year=1970

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  18. Posted · Report reply

    47 minutes ago, barnett468 said:

    Actually, the early 70 351 mustangs had windsors.

    Exactly, and why just saying "M" code does not fully describe the engine in the car.

    46 minutes ago, barnett468 said:

    it had an oil gauge on the right unless it had a tach, in which case the oil gauge was replaced with a fuel gauge and a light was then used for oil pressure.

    I no longer have a standard Mach 1. My Shelby does not have the Oil light as they installed a gauge in the center console. Ok, I'm sure the indicator is still there, but it's not used.

  20. Posted · Report reply

     
     
     
    15 minutes ago, 69ShelbyGT350H said:

    Per my wiring diagrams:

    Deluxe has a Speedo, Tach, Temp gauge, Fuel gauge. For the lights, it has Oil Pressure Warning lamp, Alt Warning lamp, and Dual Brake Warning lamp. 

    Std dash has Speedo, Ammeter, Fuel gauge, Oil Pressure gauge, Temp gauge. Dual Brake Warning lamp only. 

    Optional dash mounted were Belts lamp, Park lamp.

    As far as I know, all Mach 1's had Deluxe dashes? Neither a deluxe or std cluster has both an Oil Pressure gauge and Oil Pressure Warning lamp.

    Edit/Correction, Deluxe only indicates wood grain dash, the standard is the mat black dash. Both have the option of having the Tach or not. Belts lamp is not in the instrument cluster, but on the dash by the ignition switch.

  21. Posted · Report reply

    Per my wiring diagrams:

    Deluxe has a Speedo, Tach, Temp gauge, Fuel gauge. For the lights, it has Oil Pressure Warning lamp, Alt Warning lamp, and Dual Brake Warning lamp. 

    Std dash has Speedo, Ammeter, Fuel gauge, Oil Pressure gauge, Temp gauge. Dual Brake Warning lamp only. 

    Optional dash mounted were Belts lamp, Park lamp.

    As far as I know, all Mach 1's had Deluxe dashes? Neither a deluxe or std cluster has both an Oil Pressure gauge and Oil Pressure Warning lamp.

  22. Posted · Report reply

    Oops, saw the 351M and just went on like it was a 70 when you said 69. Yes, 69 is the 351w, Ford rated at 290 hp. 

    Now I'm losing it, who knows what the 3 lights are under the Tach? One is a brake system warning. Did the deluxe cluster come with an oil pressure gauge and a warning light? I'd think that would take 2 senders. 

    Researching now and will respond with results unless someone else can clarify.

  23. Posted · Report reply

    70's came with the 351C (Cleveland) unless it was changed out with a 351M (Modified, long stroke). Yes, your oil light should come on once the key is turned on and will stay on until the engine is running and the oil sender registers oil pressure. I am not sure of the exact lower limit that turns the light on/off. Obviously, the engine should produce oil pressure fairly quickly and 1-2 sec should be normal before the light goes off. You should also note that the light does come on every time the engine is started as a test of the oil pressure warning system. 

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