martiy1971

I had the same problem and was also blowing fuses. Mine was related to a thick wire that needs to be clipped off the grant adapter for certain installations. Also, you should smear dialectic (sp?) grease all over the copper ring to allow the copper pins to travel over the service smoothly. mine has the same shavings from running dry like yours. edit: I also had my wheel on too tight.

Has anyone managed to adjust a factory door so one doesn't have to slam the door to close? the latch mechanism seems to be almost a two stage affair, one click and it closes, but doesn't shut all the way, unless one slams the door. It would be great if one could close the door with that satisfying click that you hear with newer cars.

Good news, the distributor and coil are in and working perfectly! And thanks for all the help guys! It was as a few of you suggested, I ran an alternate 12v ignition power and tied it into the line upstream of the starter relay, and it was like a night and day difference. I just have to play a bit with the springs, and figure out the best curve for the car now. I seemed to get the best vacuum (15in/hg) at idle with about 15deg advance, 21deg mechanical and whatever the vacuum advance produces. Would more mechanical, and less advance be better, or is it overall that matters most and doesn't matter how you get there? The spring combination I have right now starts advancing around 1000rpm and is fully advanced by 2500rpm. It's a medium and light spring combo rather than the two heavy bastards that come on it.

So if I understand correctly options are 1. Bypass old resistance wire (pink) and junction box that currently goes to + on new coil with a new wire directly from a full 12v starter source? Basically cut in before and after junction box? 2. Or get a new starter relay and wire inline on the resistance wire currently supplied to + on coil? Does this mean I can remove existing starter relay? If so, any suggestions for starter relays? appreciate the help gents

It likely is the original ignition wire. Is it a matter of wire quality, or should one run from another point in the ignition if there is one? Or does one need to buy a msd igniton box now? Everything else is MSD so it's possible that it could be a weak link. If so which ignition box would you recommend?

This sounds like a possibility.

I installed a new MSD ready to run distributor, Blaster 2 coil and plug wires this weekend and am having problems getting the car to run. 351 Windsor For the dizzy,HB on TDC of the compression stroke using the thumb over the cylinder 1 sparkplug hole, then installed the dizzy with the rotor lined up directly underneath the number 1 spark plug wire. The firing order looks good, the coil is firing to all plug on the dizzy, but I can only get the car to idle extremely roughly. It sounds and looks like it is only running on 3-5 cylinders with heavy vibration and throttle will struggle revving through 1000rpm - 2000rpm, but after that it runs smoother, but still not perfect. In theory, it should be running, but its not. Looking for sugestions....

I was reading the numbers on the HB incorrectly: I was working backwards. So last night, I moved the timing to 6deg BTDC plus the 30Deg the car advances from the dizzy at 3,000 RPM should equal a total advance of 36 degrees, or am I still not interpreting this correct?

Sorry, my misunderstanding, and yes I see now what you are referring to, and will check both the dizzy's (the in car, and the one I want to use) for the curve and spring type. Appreciate it!

Appreciate the advice! I will keep tinkering, and see how it goes. With respect to the cam Bob, when you say "15L Curve Cams", I assume that is a shortened name? Are you able to tell me the full name, and at least I'll have a starting point to investigate further? Thanks in advance.

Right now the car has decent plug wires and plugs however it looks like it has remanufactured distributor and coil. I am just trying to get my head wrapped around where the timing is currently Set before I change out the coil and distributor and plugs to a full set of MSD components.

You are correct, in my initial post I was using 10 ATC and that's why when revved it only went up to 20deg. Wherever I set it at idle, it appears to advance 30deg when revved up to 3k

The marks on my balancer at 10 0 10 20 30 based on that I would move it 6 deg to the right as the 10/20/30 markings should represent BTDC correct? I would then reset the idle on the carb to what I want, correct?

So I inherited a 1970 MAch 1 from my father in law. He restored in about 15 -18 years ago and I am in the process of changing plugs, wires etc and I wanted to check the timing. It has a 351W that is mildly done, Edelbrock 1411 (750cfm), Edelbrock Performer RPM heads and intake; however I don't know if it is overbored or if its a stock crank. Apparently it was dynoed at about 350Hp if that says anything. Back to the timing - at idle the timing shows exactly at 0deg TDC and when revved up to 3000 RPM it rolls to 30deg (Vacuum line disconnected and blocked off). Based on what I have read thus far shouldn't the timing be set somewhere around 10 deg BTDC, and not 0? When set at 10 BTDC and revved again the balancer slides to 20 deg, so I am assuming that the mechanical advance on the dizzy is 30deg. Does that sound correct? Should I be rolling it back to 10 deg BTDC and try it out? I don't have a vacuum gauge yet (tomorrow), I know there is a way to set timing with vacuum pressure as a guide - any advice here? Sorry, I am a bit of a newbie when it comes to timing etc. but am learning fast. Thanks in advance,