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Thanks Terry, looks like my understanding was correct.

Hey Terry, got a question on pages 2 and 3 about the light switch. Switch has "ON", "PARK", "PARK ON" and "variable resistor" functions (if you call them functions). "ON" function is when switch is pulled fully and power goes to headlights. When you pull the switch to first indent, parking lights come on but what is "PARK" and "PARK ON" ? Does "Park ON" switch close when parking lights are on and the headlights are either on or off, and "PARK" close when parking lights are on but headlights are off and stays open when parking and headlights are on?

Can't you just install the braided stainless return line to the barb fitting of the pump with a hose clamp?

I am not a fan of hinge repair kits as the bushings that come with them are soft and wear out real quick. Also, if the holes where the bushings go in are worn out (oblong because the old bushings are disintegrated), putting new bushings is a waste of time. I enlarge the oblong holes to circles and make my own bushings from bearing bronze to fit to the new or non-damaged hole diameters. Either go with Mustang Steve kit or find someone who can turn you some bushings from bearing bronze like I do.

You should be able to remove 1 screw that attaches the metal piece around the lens and get to the lamp.

Couple years ago while Mustangs Unlimited was closing, bought 4 Original tooling hoods. Shipping company damaged all of them (in one crate); declined 2 worst hoods, accepted 2 less damaged ones (with damage claim). Wish I was lucky as you are. Took me a long time to get refund for the returned ones and to get the damage claim. And did not get refund/credit on shipping charge.

Seat back is not adjustable, it only folds for access to rear seats and locks at a fix position when raised. Rubber stops are just to eliminate rattle at seat backs fixed position. I guess if you remove the rubber pieces, seat back will lean back a little more.

Why are you disposing the gas instead of putting it in your other vehicles?

If I am remembering circuit diagrams correct, power to washer comes to switch through 950. And when you press the switch the circuit closes and power goes to washer pump through 951. Can’t see where the power to 950 comes from, may be fuse 1.

Ben, thanks for keeping the forum which is full of 69-70 info open. I have no idea what is involved in running a forum or web site and wondering what happens when autopay stops for some reason. Can someone else (besides the owner or creator of the forum) start paying and keep it open?

Midlife has it.

Thanks a lot, can stop taking Xanax now.

Are you using non-ethanol gas?

I hear you, it is not easy to remember/keep track of everything when you had the car a long time. As far as I know, there is no adjustment at the brake pedal. May be the push rod of the old master was a little shorter which would have put the pedal lower.

There is a lot of "I thinks" in your answer. Usually, if master cylinder is the only thing replaced and it is installed/adjusted correct, higher pedal means the bore of the master cylinder is increased.

What is the bore size on the old master cylinder and what is the bore size of the master that is installed currently?

Holley Part # 12-305 in tank pump/fuel level sender is an other option.

Heat shrink tubing?

I was not there when he was carving them. Saw the carvings this century when they discovered the caves. :)

I remember seeing “pink flamingo” carvings in prehistoric caves.

https://www.npdlink.com/product/windlace-quarter-pillar/151811/200305 Quarter pillar windlace. Same for coupe, vert, fastback.

Quarter pillar windlace.

Looking good. You will be doing a lot of welding with long runs; be sure to protect your arms, legs, neck etc too while welding (besides your eyes) for UV radiation. I did some tack welds for a short time without a welding mask one weekend (eyes closed of course), when I went to work on Monday people were asking me where I went over the weekend and got sun tan in the middle of winter.

With rusted rockers etc, if you have to pay someone to do the rust repair, bodywork and paint, you will spend more money than what the car is worth after restoration. Installing and tuning Sniper to run good is not cheap and an easy task, I would stay with carb. I installed Sniper on one of my cars, my other cars will be staying with carb. I would drain the old gas and get the car running with fresh gas; later on add a couple gallons of the old gas to almost full tank and use it. Ethanol blend gas is not good for old aluminum parts like your old carb. It eats up aluminum, that may be why carb rebuild is not working. New aluminum parts that gasoline touches (like carbs) have a coating to prevent damage from ethanol. The cars I don’t drive at-least once a week get non-ethanol gas. Headlight cutting might be your headlight switch. Do you have higher output (compared to original) headlights? You can have a non-leaking factory power steering. If it is leaking from hose connections, you need to replace the seats. If it is leaking from every where, you can rebuild it or get Choke to rebuild it for you. I am in Warner Robins, there is a shop here that does rust repair etc but I do not have first hand experience with them as I do my own work.

Are your spacers and wheels hub centric? Tire may be balanced when put on the balance machine but if it does not sit hub centric on the axle, it can crate vibration.