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aslanefe

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Posts posted by aslanefe

  2. Posted · Report reply

    2 hours ago, TexasEd said:

    I used my original drum spindles and installed disc brakes.  I wish I had gone with the KH setup but I have the CSRP kit which I think is a Granada setup.

    This is my car.  The calipers mount on the two holes you can see to the left of the backing plate.


    20180311_184751_zpsnkhdrg92.thumb.jpg.80e575d3117d25ef12d462703bb7beb5.jpg

    20180311_215213_zpsrcutj8tj.thumb.jpg.4dd8218e84469635469e4133e79a2c79.jpg

    Ed, that is a KH style 4 piston set up, not Granada. Original 69-70 cars have single piston calipers. That kit you used comes with the bracket for KH style calipers to attach to drum spindles (attached with the 4 bolts that go through the dust shield). I  used the same KH style kit on one of my 69s to convert from drum to disc. 

    You can't install original 69-70 Mustang (and Granada) single calipers and caliper brackets on a drum spindle. Original 69 and 70 caliper brackets do not mount through dust shield mounting points like the KH style.

    Here are some pictures of 1970 drum spindle, Here are some pictures of 1970 disc spindle (69 spindle similar with smaller diameter pin and smaller tie rod); you can see the extra holes on disc spindle (not the holes for dust shield) to install the 69-70 caliper bracket you can see here. 

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  3. Posted · Report reply

    2 hours ago, det0326 said:

    Kinda confused by Peter's last post. I always thought the 1 piece hub and rotor was same for 1969 and 1970, just a different bearing. also the tapered hole for outer tie rod is bigger so u have to use 1970 tie rod. 

    As far as I know, the basic discs/hubs (without races installed) are the same, but bearing races are different. Discs come with races installed so there is a 69 disc part number with 69 race installed, and a 70 part number with 70 race installed.

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  6. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, Peter K said:

    I was on NAPA's website and looked up the part numbers for rotors for a 1969 Mustang Fastback and they are what I purchased according to the receipt (threw out the boxes). There is a different part number for the 1970 mustang front rotor. Unfortunately there are no detailed specs on either on the web page. I am going to go back to NAPA with my new bearings and rotors and see what the difference is, hopefully this will be the answer. I will keep everyone posted.

    PK

    68-73 Mustang rotors without the bearing races are the same. Read this page. for Mustang spindle and rotor info.

    det0326 reacted to this

  10. Posted · Report reply

    Can't help you with a parts door but flaking coating is rubber/tar they spray at the factory for sound deadening of the big outer skin. They are though, you can try heating if you want to remove all of it. I pick/break the flaking pieces and spray a few coats of rubberized coating from spray can to the bare areas. Rust holes occur at the lowest areas of a part (without a drain path) where dirt and water accumulates, like door and quarter bottoms. I wouldn't consider those as potential for rust areas as they are not at the lowest areas of the door for dirt and water to accumulate.

  12. Posted · Report reply

    On 1/5/2023 at 3:40 AM, smh00n said:

     4 - Holley Sniper install.

    This was a Big One. I had originally bought a AFM 650 double pumper carb, but as I wanted a reliable, hassle free low maintenance car, I started looking at TBI. Holley and FAST were the gun things 5 years ago, and both of them were copping static on forums. I decided on the Sniper as it integrated with the MSD ignition, and Holley had supplied Fomoco from day one, so I thought as a die hard Ford fan I ought to stay with family.

    I bought the base 600Hp, 4 injector kit and then bought the matching Holley EFI fuel tank with the sender and fuel pump inside. I also bought a stack of AN fittings, filters, fuel hose and hard line and associated clamps/brackets etc. To make my job easier I also bought an EFI clamp kit (the type with the 2 'ears' that get squashed down).

    As the motor in the car when bought was a '74 302 with a cast iron 2bbl intake and 2bbl carb, I bought for cheaps a Edelbrock Torker manifold.

    First off, I fitted the fuel tank. This was actually a Tanks Inc. unit that was supplied in a Holley box.

     

     

    In the 'rebuild' a large selection of what we call tek screws were used in the car. Dash, trim, fuel tanks, you name it they were there. The tank had a selection of fasteners holding it in.

     

    What I don't like about this tank, is the top load of the sender and pump. When I did this the in-tank sender and pump Holley now have wasn't available, so I have this all sticking up prone to damage.

     

    I tried making sugar out of shiite but still not happy with it. The centre fitting is a vent and I have made a hard line going back to the centre support, looping and venting outside. The EFI clamps are visible in this shot.

    One issue with the sender, if you cannot use AN fittings into the sender.

    This is a -8 to match the hose I had bought - I bought all -8 fittings for the entire supply and return system - but -8 don't fit. D'Oh! So, I had to buy all -6 lines, fittings and tube.

    Moving along, I wanted a clean install so made up a bracket under the tank. This is a 10 micron filter, but since then I have added a 40 micron filter and run them in sync.

     

    I then ran alloy/steel tubing front to rear, up inside the transmission tunnel. In the engine bay I have terminated them just at the vertical and crimped hose on. I used Gates EFI hose all through, designed to accept Ethanol although I won't be using Ethanol in this car.

     

    The wiring, as previously mentioned has all been done with solid connectors, avoiding interference issues and tied off. I've never had an issue with the system.

    Now I have EFI, I can plug it into the MSD system for a wholesome, happy engine. As the distributor timing is managed by the Sniper ECU, first thing was to loose the vacuum advance.

    Instructions make it sound easy but there is a bit of work. Luckily, MSD give you all the bits needed to lock out the advance, which is probably a dollar cost but 100 dollars value to the customer.

     

    First, remove the fandangled vacuum advance unit. If my memory is right, this photo shows an issue with removing the module from the distributor slot

     

    This wasn't a 5 minute job, and on a $600 distributor you don't want to be reefing stuff out with a plumbers wrench.

    Next, pull the weights out, fit the including locks, put it all back together and breathe.

     

    Once done, go into the handheld screen, set your CID, cam type and save and start.

     

    Whilst you set the idle at the carb as per normal, you can also set it electronically. Once you save it, it is instant.

    This was a good few days work, but I was in no hurry. First start it fired and idled without issue. The system shows the learn progress as you drive and I think it is getting better, but honestly with a tired old 302 I wasn't interested in 1/4 miles or land speed records.

    The system has much more capability than I have, and you can change the fuel tables, it can handle nitrous, so has a lot of features. For me, I am just happy it has been solid for the past 3 years.

    The only thing I don't like is the cycle time of the ECU when you first start it. It's about 3-4 seconds but seems longer. If you are going to hit a bank in your EFI-installed Mustang, my advice is leave the motor running. The fuel pump is also slightly noisy. It can be a bit of wank factor or an annoyance. Mr, I'm used to it and it doesn't worry me no more.

    I have the Holley 12-305 fuel tank module (used on a regular gas tank) and it is a little noisy too especially when the fuel level is at or below quarter. Changing the pump on the Holley module to a genuine Walbro might solve the problem. 

    It takes Sniper a few seconds to prime the fuel line and inject the prime shot before start. I usually turn the key to on, start buckling up and by the time seat belt is on, prime shot is done. If you do not wait for the prime shot, it takes longer cranking to start.

    Couple years ago I modified/locked a Ford duraspark dizzy to have Sniper control the timing. Couldn't get it to work and put that project up. Need to play with it some more some time as I have seen posts where people got Sniper to control timing using a duraspark dizzy which has the same magnetic pickup as MSD dizzy.

    I am running 2 bbl Sniper. How is the cold start on a cold day for your install? My hot idle is set to 550 rpm and cold idle is set to 850rpm, Sniper can't get it to 850 as IAC hits 100% around 700-750 rpm when it is cold.; it still drives fine without stalling though. Can start it, then put it in gear and go without waiting for the engine to warm up. Have been trying to get the cold day start rpms adjusted for a couple years now; trying to get it to start a little high, then slowly drop down like modern vehicles in cold weather.

  13. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, capemustang said:

    Hello, 

    Thank you for your input.  It is a convertible so the seat does not fold down--the convertible top hydraulics are in the way and it is a rigid back. I did try as you suggested and it didn't work, although a very  good idea. I basically unscrewed the convertible top boot and then somehow slid into the trunk that way-worming my way in. It was a tight fit and I was stuck for half a minute. I was able to use the socket to unscrew the trunk lid screws.  Again, thank you for your suggestions. Take care

    Did you figure out what was preventing it from opening? 

  20. Posted · Report reply

    7 hours ago, Ridge Runner said:

     .Rsanter is correct ,you can buy just the bushing at some part stores ,i used to get them at Nappa stores on those spinning racks  

    Used to be able to find stuff not available on other chains at NAPA, but looks like they are changing too. Needed copper crush washers for brake hoses of a 66 and NAPA I go to told me they stopped selling stuff like bolts, nuts, washers. 

  21. Posted · Report reply

    37 minutes ago, Midlife said:
    SUSPENSION OF REFURBISHMENT: I am in need of a hip
    replacement, scheduled for early February.  I am in great pain
    and can no longer spend time on my workbench repairing
    wiring harnesses.  I will resume operations sometime after
    surgery, so please check back approximately mid-March.
    THANK YOU FOR YOUR PATIENCE

     

    Sorry to hear that. Hope you recover quick and with minimum pain.

  23. Posted · Report reply

    22 minutes ago, Mach1 Driver said:

    Hi, Park is the first detent, and when it is pulled all the way out with the headlights ON. I tried to keep the abbreviations as short as possible.

    Looking at the switch, A is only on with the switch pulled all the way out to ON, B is on only when the switch is pulled to the first detent (park), C is on when either pulling to the first or second detents, D is turning with high dash lights CCW, or low to CW, E is turning the knob CCW all the way:

     

    Thanks Terry,  looks like my understanding was correct.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    On 7/11/2017 at 11:34 AM, Mach1 Driver said:

     

    A REAL Schematic

     

    Hey Terry, got a question on pages 2 and 3 about the light switch. Switch has "ON", "PARK", "PARK ON" and "variable resistor" functions (if you call them functions).

    "ON" function is when switch is pulled fully and power goes to headlights. When you pull the switch to first indent, parking lights come on but what  is "PARK" and "PARK ON" ? Does "Park ON" switch close when parking lights are on and the headlights are either on or off, and "PARK" close when parking lights are on but headlights are off and stays open when parking and headlights are on?

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