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Get the buffer (items 61557, 94393), not the grinder; buffer has longer shafts and better suited for buffing. The headlight trim is tricky to polish as it is thin and odd shape; you have to be real real careful otherwise it will snag on the wheel and get damaged. You can sand the deeper scratches with high grit sand paper (1000 or higher) then polish. I start with a coarse compound (with dedicated buffing pad) then with a finer compound later (with dedicated buffing pad). You have to be careful when you are feeding the trim to pad and not to get it snagged. There is a learning curve but not difficult to do. I also polish the old/tired anodized aluminum trim (hood molding etc) which brings them a little shine but not shinny like the stainless.

Yes, wiper motor harness.

Ed, that is a KH style 4 piston set up, not Granada. Original 69-70 cars have single piston calipers. That kit you used comes with the bracket for KH style calipers to attach to drum spindles (attached with the 4 bolts that go through the dust shield). I used the same KH style kit on one of my 69s to convert from drum to disc. You can't install original 69-70 Mustang (and Granada) single calipers and caliper brackets on a drum spindle. Original 69 and 70 caliper brackets do not mount through dust shield mounting points like the KH style. Here are some pictures of 1970 drum spindle, Here are some pictures of 1970 disc spindle (69 spindle similar with smaller diameter pin and smaller tie rod); you can see the extra holes on disc spindle (not the holes for dust shield) to install the 69-70 caliper bracket you can see here.

As far as I know, the basic discs/hubs (without races installed) are the same, but bearing races are different. Discs come with races installed so there is a 69 disc part number with 69 race installed, and a 70 part number with 70 race installed.

Drum spindles do not have provisions/mounting points for caliper brackets like disc spindles.

I measured the rear as 55 3/8” with the little bend of measuring tape over trans tunnel.

68-73 Mustang rotors without the bearing races are the same. Read this page. for Mustang spindle and rotor info.

Can they be D0ZZ? If so, take a look here.

If you mount the shaker to the hood, it won't shake :)

I have a 69 that is not running and can try it on it.

Can't help you with a parts door but flaking coating is rubber/tar they spray at the factory for sound deadening of the big outer skin. They are though, you can try heating if you want to remove all of it. I pick/break the flaking pieces and spray a few coats of rubberized coating from spray can to the bare areas. Rust holes occur at the lowest areas of a part (without a drain path) where dirt and water accumulates, like door and quarter bottoms. I wouldn't consider those as potential for rust areas as they are not at the lowest areas of the door for dirt and water to accumulate.

Mine is auto also, C4 with standard torque converter. My idle stays the same both in park and drive.

I have the Holley 12-305 fuel tank module (used on a regular gas tank) and it is a little noisy too especially when the fuel level is at or below quarter. Changing the pump on the Holley module to a genuine Walbro might solve the problem. It takes Sniper a few seconds to prime the fuel line and inject the prime shot before start. I usually turn the key to on, start buckling up and by the time seat belt is on, prime shot is done. If you do not wait for the prime shot, it takes longer cranking to start. Couple years ago I modified/locked a Ford duraspark dizzy to have Sniper control the timing. Couldn't get it to work and put that project up. Need to play with it some more some time as I have seen posts where people got Sniper to control timing using a duraspark dizzy which has the same magnetic pickup as MSD dizzy. I am running 2 bbl Sniper. How is the cold start on a cold day for your install? My hot idle is set to 550 rpm and cold idle is set to 850rpm, Sniper can't get it to 850 as IAC hits 100% around 700-750 rpm when it is cold.; it still drives fine without stalling though. Can start it, then put it in gear and go without waiting for the engine to warm up. Have been trying to get the cold day start rpms adjusted for a couple years now; trying to get it to start a little high, then slowly drop down like modern vehicles in cold weather.

Did you figure out what was preventing it from opening?

Besides the commercial storage racks, I have 4-5 long tables/benches like that :(

I have a couple switches.

Have you thought about removing the lock tube completely and locking the top lock ring inside the car by the steering wheel? One of my 70 cars is missing the rod from lock tube to transmission. So I wrapped cloth tape around the lock ring and key ring to hold the ring in place. A small screw in between lock ring and key ring should work too.

sent you an email.

Send me an PM. Nevermind, looks like you are a new member who can't PM. What is your email address?

I think I have a few left; need to look for them to make sure.

Used to be able to find stuff not available on other chains at NAPA, but looks like they are changing too. Needed copper crush washers for brake hoses of a 66 and NAPA I go to told me they stopped selling stuff like bolts, nuts, washers.

Sorry to hear that. Hope you recover quick and with minimum pain.

Are you checking the voltage while the engine is running? I think you need to check the other terminal, not the one that goes to points/distributor.

Thanks Terry, looks like my understanding was correct.

Hey Terry, got a question on pages 2 and 3 about the light switch. Switch has "ON", "PARK", "PARK ON" and "variable resistor" functions (if you call them functions). "ON" function is when switch is pulled fully and power goes to headlights. When you pull the switch to first indent, parking lights come on but what is "PARK" and "PARK ON" ? Does "Park ON" switch close when parking lights are on and the headlights are either on or off, and "PARK" close when parking lights are on but headlights are off and stays open when parking and headlights are on?