aslanefe

Currently I have ill fitting aftermarket fenders on the car, can remove the headlight area from them to put on 69 fenders if needed.

Does anybody have any leads for original fenders preferably for a 1970 in or around Georgia? Needing some work is okay.

No problem. Glue the rear first, then alternating the sides between the bows, then front. Good luck.

I use 3M glue per their instructions. You put it on to both headliner and the window frame then wait for it to dry until it is not tacky, then join the pieces while pulling tight. This way the glue joins the pieces immediately and not require clips etc for it to dry. You have to be careful with placement of the headliner as you can’t reposition and it is difficult to disjoin the parts. Also, when you install the metal trim back, it pulls the headliner a little more. Join some scrap pieces using above method and you will see that it grabs immediately and you do not need spring clips.

Don’t know if the panel was made on a Friday afternoon but Spectra premium panels do not impress me much. They claim to be a little thicker than Asian repro panels but I find that most Asian panels have better contours/details. The exact location of that hole does not matter much, it is an access hole for seat fastening nuts. You may have some inconvenience installing the seat but should be okay with it being 1/2 inches off.

on 69-70 coupe and fastback, front glass (which does not use weatherstrip) does not need to come out for headliner replacement; but it will make it a little easier to install the headliner with front glass removed. But rear glass and weather strip should come out to do it right. The front glass has to come out on older cars that use a weatherstrip to install the windshield.

Danno has not been on the forum over a year, hope he is well.

You can polish it on the glass, just be careful as it will be little awkward to handle and not heat it much.

As the shaft is collapsible, there is no pressure/force on the box. The inner shaft moves in or out while the outer shafts stays connected to box. The adjustment I mentioned is not much, may be an inch.

I think they did not fold the edge to eliminate the possibility of a leak as there is no gasket for the windshield; you can’t control how the windshield adhesive will flow and not cover the headliner edge thus creating a leak. Your’s look like original install to me.

Also, glass removal is not required to remove/install the moldings if studs for the clips are not missing.

Not sure if the front should fold under even a little bit. Couple of original headliners I removed were not folded and ended even with the edge of the front windshield channel.

Do you mean NPD item # 8242-4B :)

Yes, assemble the firewall, front rails, fender aprons etc per dimensions above with clamps or a few tack welds, floor should rest on firewall bottom and rockers should find their place. Good luck.

As I suspected, a lot of variation. Measured the floor to rocker just after the area where floor sits on edge of firewall on 5 cars and got 5/8” to 1 1/16”. I would drill the plug weld holes on the floor, just tack the front to rockers at 3/4”, then assemble the rest. You can break the tacks to sit the floor on firewall then plug weld the whole floor later.

There is a Tecna 3664P resistance spot welder for $3500 OBO about 200 miles from me, but it is 3 phase which I do not have in my shop :(

As far as I know those solvents won't hurt anodize; but just to be on the safe side, test the solvent on the back side of a part (which is also anodized) first. After you get the hang of the process while doing the stainless, you can polish those aluminum pieces (at the condition like on your picture) with a fine compound and polish for a little more shine. If worst stainless is the one on the picture, they do not look bad. Try the coarse then fine compounds without sanding first and see if you like the results; if not, wet sand the bad areas with fine sand paper and buff those spots again.

Those rosette (plug) welds looks nice, almost no grinding necessary. A lot of times mine builds up and I need to do a lot of grinding, need to figure out what I am doing wrong to make them like yours all the time.

Ridge gave you good tips. My most important tips are, do not push the part to wheel too much and wear as much protection as you can. Be careful of how you hold the part and how you feed it to the pad and where you stand; if/when you get the part wrapped around the shaft/pad, those stainless parts can spin around like sharp swords.

The floor 90 degree bends up on coupe and fastback.

I will measure some cars at the most forward of the floor that is not obstructed (which will be just after the torque box) to bottom of the rocker, but it will be tomorrow.

You need measurements from the floor edge to the rockers at the front of the floor only, right?

The moldings on the fender extensions, hood molding and other trim around the grill (including the part argent painted trim) are aluminum. The rings that hold the headlights on headlight buckets are stainless. Aluminum should have been anodized and not easy to remove, if there was clear finish, I suspect someone sanded, buffed and coated with clear which is a common and cheap way to shine old anodized parts. Original aluminum trim is anodized, it is very hard; try sanding it with a sand paper and you can see how hard it is. You can shine them a little bit but to do it correctly (and have a mirror shine like originally) anodize has to be stripped, aluminum polished and anodized again.

I understand what you are facing now. The inner rocker to outer rocker placement is easy as the inner rocker has indentations to fit the outer rocker to; but how do you align the inner (and outer rocker) to floor pan as the diagrams jmlay posted do not have measurements/locations for the inner or outer rockers. It may be better to fit the cowl, side frames etc and see where they fall as they join to rockers and floor pan. If you want, I can get you rocker measurements from the floor pan from a couple of my cars (one is a convertible on a frame jig but not taken apart a lot based on the dimensions from the diagrams below) but I suspect that there will be slight differences in measurements due to how they were assembled.

Diagrams do not show the rocker, so the dimensions for the rocker may change a little bit. Use the X dimensions for the spring hole and front of front rail. There have been some discussions about this same topic, if you search my posts, you will find some of those discussions.