aslanefe

The rocker panels (both inside and outside) are thicker than other body panels; as far as I remember no reinforcement for the nut on rocker.The floor has reinforcement for seat belt attach points as it is thinner. If you want reinforcement; weld your nut on a plate with a hole, drill a bigger hole on the inner rocker where you want your belt anchor point, put the plate with nut fitting in the hole on rocker, weld your plate on top of rocker. Carpet will cover it. Removing inside rocker in one piece is major work. I think the rockers are one of the first pieces that the vehicle is assembled around. Have a look at the post where a member is restoring a 69 vert where the only piece he is re-using from original vehicle is the A pillars, that will give you an idea on how involved is removing only inner rocker.

No need to create a lot of work disassembling the rocker panel, I would weld a new nut.

I don't know if lead will stick to quarter extensions. Use a good filler after 80 grit and it should last. Extensions are real thick and stiff, so they won't be flexing and cracking the filler.

If you do not have air in your heater core, there won't be any effects. If you have air in the heater core, you won't get as much heat out of the heater.

FYI, sometimes the admin goes through the posts and deletes photos uploaded to the forum when there is not enough space on the server. You might want to upload your photos to an other hosting service and link them on your posts instead of uploading them here so when there is another clean up you do not loose the photos in your posts.

Do they have a few different part numbers for different years? I thought they only made the early pan and say fits other years with modification and or the ribbing etc is different.

Looked at the 1969 wiring schematics Mach1driver created; the brake light should not come on if the engine dies if no brake fault; it will come on only during start and go out in run.

If the engine dies itself (without turning the ignition off) does the brake warning light come on?

I know the ammeter versus the alt light, I was wondering of there is any light in the cluster that comes on when the key is at run position and goes out after the engine starts. Seat belt light (if you have it) which is not in the cluster comes on for a few seconds and goes out, anything in the cluster that comes on?

I think the Alt warning light on clusters with tach comes on when the key is turned to run, and goes out after the car is started (provided the alt is charging). Is there a light on non-tach cluster that comes on when the key is turned to on position and goes out when the engine starts?

+1 for option 3.

I think that's why they punched the holes on the door through the panel instead of drilling.

I have encountered seals that are not the exact right size in the seal kits that are in the market that leaked. If the shaft linkage is not damaged and if you use the right size seal, it shouldn't leak. Make sure the shaft where seal sits is smooth and find the right o-ring, may have to source the right o-ring instead of using the one in a kit.

Heater core is not for cooling the fluid but it is for getting the heat out of the fluid to heat the cabin. If there is air in the heater core, then less heat will be extracted. This may not be an issue for you in Cali but people who live in colder areas may like to get the most heat from their heater.

Yes, pull them out. You can pull the end with the small hole at the bottom. Or cut the rubber pieces out with a razor. There is a steel spine that goes the whole length. The hole at the bottom is at the end of that steel piece. I had a very hard time installing those on my 70 Grande years ago. Hopefully yours will go on easier.

You can use a +3 aftermarket upper control arm or modify your upper control arm yourself and move the ball joint back about 20 millimeters.

In that case, how about getting a good MiG like Miller and a seperate cheaper TIG stick combination. I use my Miller MIG most of the time; have an Everlast AC/DC TIG and stick and it does the job when I need a TIG.

When it is hot and it turns slow, remove the wire from the coil to distributer, then see if starter turns faster.

I have MIG, TIG, stick, oxy, spot welder etc. You can do almost everything you need with just MIG (using Al gun for Al) if you are only going to use the welder around the home and on your car projects. My question is, do you really need a TIG?

Just looked at my spare 70 steering column and steering wheel; no flat spots or missing teeth on the shaft or steering wheel. I could mount the steering wheel any orientation I want on the shaft.

As far as I know, there is none (the pitman arm has though). You can put the steering wheel on the shaft any way you want. If the steering wheel is off too much, the tie rod adjustment may not be enough to center the wheel. Just have the front wheel alignment done, center the front tires and remove and re install the steering wheel back on center. Make sure you reposition your turn signal canceling thing that goes on the steering shaft so it will cancel evenly between right and left turns.

Same as the 69 and 70 rods I looked at, left only has MS. Right has MS and R. I guess if it is not R (right) then it is left side. Must have saved who ever the manufacturer (MS I believe) a few bucks to not put L on the die for left side.

Right side rods (front and rear) are the same, left are the same; right is different from left. Difference is the mounting angle of the lower flange. I remember seeing letter R stamped on the right rods (stamped on the lower flange if I remember right).

Guide rods are manufactured the same for 69 and 70. Also the doors for 69 and 70 are the same. But when they assembled the inner frame of the door and outer skin, not every door came out with the upper mounting point at the same location. So they installed the guide rod and tightened it which bent the flange of the rod to match the door while also pulling the mounting location of the door inward. An other thing, my original felt did not touch the glass when it is rolled up. Ford did not bother to adjust the mounting point so the felt would seal. Now we have to fix all these by bend stuff etc to allign so the felt will seal. My 70 Cougar rods are not bent like Ridge posted but the felt seals. The 69 rod is not bent either and it does not seal without bending the door frame and flange on the passenger side. Now I have to find a manufacturer which has a felt that is 1/2 inches or more thick to seal. Cause the ones I bought are 1/8 to 3/16 inches small because of a manufacturing defect on the felt. On a side note, my original tail panel was welded crocked too, right side is 1/4 inches or more lower than left side.

Ridge, just looked at the 2 of the guides with studs from my 70 Cougar, they have the holes for the nipple to fit. Ford must have modified the tooling to eliminate the hole at some point.