aslanefe

As far as I know, there is none (the pitman arm has though). You can put the steering wheel on the shaft any way you want. If the steering wheel is off too much, the tie rod adjustment may not be enough to center the wheel. Just have the front wheel alignment done, center the front tires and remove and re install the steering wheel back on center. Make sure you reposition your turn signal canceling thing that goes on the steering shaft so it will cancel evenly between right and left turns.

Same as the 69 and 70 rods I looked at, left only has MS. Right has MS and R. I guess if it is not R (right) then it is left side. Must have saved who ever the manufacturer (MS I believe) a few bucks to not put L on the die for left side.

Right side rods (front and rear) are the same, left are the same; right is different from left. Difference is the mounting angle of the lower flange. I remember seeing letter R stamped on the right rods (stamped on the lower flange if I remember right).

Guide rods are manufactured the same for 69 and 70. Also the doors for 69 and 70 are the same. But when they assembled the inner frame of the door and outer skin, not every door came out with the upper mounting point at the same location. So they installed the guide rod and tightened it which bent the flange of the rod to match the door while also pulling the mounting location of the door inward. An other thing, my original felt did not touch the glass when it is rolled up. Ford did not bother to adjust the mounting point so the felt would seal. Now we have to fix all these by bend stuff etc to allign so the felt will seal. My 70 Cougar rods are not bent like Ridge posted but the felt seals. The 69 rod is not bent either and it does not seal without bending the door frame and flange on the passenger side. Now I have to find a manufacturer which has a felt that is 1/2 inches or more thick to seal. Cause the ones I bought are 1/8 to 3/16 inches small because of a manufacturing defect on the felt. On a side note, my original tail panel was welded crocked too, right side is 1/4 inches or more lower than left side.

Ridge, just looked at the 2 of the guides with studs from my 70 Cougar, they have the holes for the nipple to fit. Ford must have modified the tooling to eliminate the hole at some point.

By doing the way I described you are bending both the door frame where the flange is attached to and the guide rod top flange . That way, the door frame where the rod is attached to gets bent outboard a lot more than the rod flange gets bent. The problem is not the guide rod flange, problem is the location of the mounting point on the door frame. My driver side fits fine without any tweaking, but the passenger side (which is an undamaged original to the car door) had the issue; measured the frame mounting points and saw that the pass side is inboard compared to drivers side. But you can cut and reweld the flange of the guide rods and move the glass outboard if you do not want to bend the door frame.

Ridge, I have spent some time with 69 glued in glass and hardware and 70 (cougar) bolt in glass in the last few weeks to sort the problem of glass not touching the felt on the outside like the OP is experiencing . As far as I remember, the nipple you are talking about is on the brackets the glass is glued on to on the 69. Both 69 and 70 guides have holes for the nipple. 70 guide has studs that go through the glass. 69 guide has treaded hole and bolts go through the brackets to the guide. There is a rubber pad between guide and glass on 70, no rubber pad between 69 guide and glass brackets.

I believe they have their own design sill plates which uses a flat head screw.

Welcome back online Midlife.

The soft part of the felt should be 1/2 thick (not including the metal piece etc), meaning it should sit 1/2 inches tall on the flat part of it. I received some felts that were 1/8 to 3/16 inches narrow. Remove the glass (regulator can stay). Loosen the top and bottom bolts holding the guide rods (do not remove the bolts completely, just loosen about 2 turns). Put a piece of angle iron 1 to 1.5 foot long on the inside edge of the door frame across from the top bracket bolt. Get a pry bar, put the end of it just below the top bolt, fulcrum it on the angle iron and push the other end of the bar in. Angle iron is to spread the force on the inner door frame instead of bending in the point the bar is touching.This bends the area where the top flange of the guide is attached and also the top flange. I moved the guide rod about 1/4 inches out at the top this way. But be careful to not damage the outside of the door, push in slowly and measure how much you moved. You can measure the movement by putting a square on top of the door and sliding the other leg down and measure the gap between the square and the flange or bolt that attaches the flange. Do not remove the bottom bolts on the guide, just loosen them; or you may bend the guide back at the bottom and put a dent on the door at the bottom. If you can't move it enough this way, then you can cut the top flange and reweld it with the offset you need. Don't forget to gring out the sticking parts if you reweld the top flange as they may scrape your glass when rolled up.

I have been going through such a problem on my 69 Grande. Did you replace the outside windowfelt? If so, what brand did you use? Some felts are not as thick as the originals, and leave a gap. The top mounting location of the guide rods can be pushed out a little bit without cutting and rewelding the top flange.

Sent.

Florida you are asking if you can add a pressure valve to pump to limit pressure pump makes, right? I believe there is already a valve in the pump to limit pressure when engine rpm goes up. As ridge said, wondering is because of the ball joint of the PS control valve. If there is too much play in that, wandering increases, limiting the pressure from pump won't help. Limiting pressure will only decrease the assist/power level. The ps control valve on my 70 grande has no play and it wandered some. I increased the caster to 6 degrees and it reduced the wandering considerably.

I have a 69 wiring diagram that some forum member drew. It is too big to post here. PM me your email address and I will email it to you.

I don't think regular seat platforms add anything to the structural integrity. If you are concerned about it, how about removing the seat platform and adding convertible enforcements on the bottom of the floor?

Why not buy them from NPD, they are $1 for 4 of them.

One more thing, if the part has brazing material left on it (like when you are attaching a new panel to old panel that was brazed) you have to grind all of the brazing material, because you can't weld on to braze. If all of the parts are new, you can mig the gap, but if there is brazing left on one of the panels, I would braze that joint because it is difficult to remove all the brazing material wicked into nicks and folds etc.

Brazing takes less heat which means less warping. Also, with brazing, the filler material is wicked inside the joint (like solder does), no wicking when welding.

Ford brazed that area to fill the gap so water won't get in. That panel between trunk and rear window has also brazing where it joins to the quarter panel.

I used the electric motor from a treadmill I found at the dump to power my bead roller. Used a starter gear and a flexplate to increase the torque and reduce the speed. Use the foot control of my TIG welder to start and adjust the speed and a switch to change direction of rotation. That motor with starter gear and flexplate should have enough torque to spin if the car is balanced on the rotisserie.

On my 69 and 70 coupes the small screw on the bottom of the stainless trim is to secure the weather strip that slides on the trim; I would think that the screw on fastback trims is for the weather strip also.

If the backspace/offset, hole spacing, width etc fits your car and if you like those rims, go for it.

If you like twisties, look up "tail of the dragon at deals gap" in Smokey Mountains, 300 plus curves in 11 miles. Good scenery also.

How I understand it is, the angles of the light emitted by the bulbs are different so they do not reflect the same from the reflector of the headlight and the pattern changes. The headlights located the bulb at a certain position inside and the reflection from the aft surface of the headlight helps with the pattern. Think of using a magnifying glass to burn a paper focusing sun light. LEDs emit towards front and not to back much, so there is no or less reflection of light from the reflector of the headlight. Regular bulb (halogen or HID) reflects almost all around versus LEDs 120 degree etc. This is what happens if you put LED bulb into a headlight. Does it make sense?

Well, you know the saying, go big or go home. Don't know if they are legal in the US but they are available in Europe. The headlights fit to 69 buckets after trimming of the alignment tabs of the headlights. Will be fitting them to my 69 Grande using relays and heavier wires to power them.