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A member asked me to make him a couple of parking brake switches. See this topic for more info on how I made the switches. While making him a couple, I made a few extra contacts and heat treated them. Let me know if anybody else wants a switch; I will 3D print the other parts and put together switches for you. They are $30 each plus shipping.

If I understood it right, if you use the washer button you have to have both hands on right side of the wheel; one hand to press the bottom and keep it pressed while you are cranking, other hand to turn the ignition. At least I will have a hard time doing that.

Here is how you reproduce the not yet reproduced 69-70 parking brake switch. Make the ABS body and the end by 3D printing. Make a bending jig to bend the beryllium copper contact to right shape and bend the contact strips. Heat treat the contact. Assemble and secure the parts. You are done. Changed the original design a little bit so the contact does not break due to fatigue like the originals did. Cycled the black switch 2500 times on the 70 Cougar pedal I have off the car; it did not brake and did not stop working so installed it on my 69 Grande. Left to right on the pictures below are; broken original switch, 3D printed ABS parts, contact, final product.

Also, I would recommend the 1" Shelby drop before going for an alignment.

For street -0.5 camber, max + caster you can get (I am running +8.8 caster at the moment with my modified upper control arms, but with stock control arms and strut rods you can get about +3.5 caster) and 1/16 to 1/8 toe in. No more than 0.25 degrees difference between right side and left side on camber and caster.

Try eBay or West Coast Classic Cougar for a used one.

It has been a long time since I rebuilt one, but as far as I remember, you install that self locking nut and start the car with front wheels up in the air; slowly tighten the nut (quarter turn at a time) till the steering turns itself, then back the nut off till the steering stops turning by itself. Then put the car down, turn the steering to right and left and feel how it feels, is it quick to provide assist and easier to turn one side or is it even both sides? If it is even for both left and right turn, you are done and can install the cap/cover. Hopefully someone with a better memory can confirm or correct this. Watch for your arm and hands as the wheels can turn suddenly during adjustment.

Does anybody have a 69 rim blow switch they messed up during installation creating it to short? Looking for some shorted switches for a project, let me know if you have one. Thanks

The carb on my 1970 Cougar XR7 with 351C is mounted directly on the intake manifold; no egr plate.

Trunk light harness connects to the under dash harness just behind the gauge cluster (close to where the tail light harness connects to dash harness). You might want to plug the dash end of the trunk light harness while the dash is out so you will have power ready in the trunk for when you put a trunk light.

Looks like it has accident damage at rear. May be $2000?

Just looked at the lower brackets and bolts I have in a bag for one of my 69s, I was wrong. They are 5/16 NC18 bolts with captive washers (like fender bolts). Total length (including the head) is 1 inch.They may be the same bolts that attach the front fender extensions to radiator support. The top support had 2 screws that attached the support to top of radiator support (besides the 2 bolts that go from front to radiator support). Don't know if the 2 screws that go from top are original or if someone added them.

I think they are sheet metal screws, not bolts.

Below is how you can contact Midlife. http://midlifeharness.com/welcome.html

Never mind, looks like 70 switch is riveted instead of bent tabs. You can always drill out the rivet and install new ones or bolt and but.

You have to straighten the metal tabs to disassemble the switch.

They are not as wide as they used to be. The manufacturer of the material is making them narrower for the last few years, because of that it does not touch the glass on some cars no matter how you adjust the glass or the runs without bending, cutting rewelding etc of the run and or top of the door frame where the run is mounted to. I think the more expensive ones (can't remember the brand) use the same manufacturer as their felts are the same dimension as Repops.

Have you installed the door outside window felts yet?.Are you going to use Repops brand felt?

They drive on the wrong side in New Zealand. If the car is going to be registered and driven there, you may want to look for UK spec headlights.

Pedal is firm and does not go in all the way (except while bleeding); so I do not think there is air in the system. It stops good. Rears don't lock up under normal pedal pressure. It locks up when I brake real hard. Adjustable valve in the rear line will reduce the pressure to rear so they lock up later but in my case looks like I need more pressure to fronts as my problem is fronts not locking up at all. The reason why I was asking for pressure values for rear and front was to see if my pressures are comparable or not. If they are, then I would suspect that the pads I have are the source for not being able to lock the fronts.

I have a GM style prop valve/distribution block. Did not drive it without booster, but with booster nose dives down first then rears lock up; fronts do not. When going in reverse, the fronts lock up, rears don't. I can't bench press 400 lbs anymore, that's why I went with power booster. I would think that prop valve is working as I get more pressure to the fronts (1400 psi fronts, 1000 psi rears with booster). If it matters, the brake warning light on dash comes on while bleeding the brakes and goes out after bleeding and applying the brake once or twice.

I know the pressure depends on how strong the person pressing the pedal is. I get about 700 psi to front (with early style 4 piston calipers), 600 to rear drums with a 1 inch MC with no vacuum to the booster. And about 1400 psi to front and 1000 psi to rear with 18-20 inch vacuum. The MC, calipers and booster are not original 69 equipment, pedal is power brake pedal hang high. I was trying to see if the pressures I have are in acceptable range as the rears would lock but not the fronts. Fronts have new pads, rotors; rears have new shoes and original drums that look very clean and true. Shoes are Wagner Z151R, no idea on the pads as they came with the kit and I did not see any markings on them.

Does anyone know what the brake pressure specs are for front disk, front drum, rear drum, with booster and without booster for 69 and 70?

You know that they need to be set for right hand or left hand thread before use, right?

I use the impact driver I linked for screws for the door striker plate etc, not for a bolt. One or two hits with a hammer on it with right bit and right setting brakes rusted screws loose. Works on Phillips head screws that are rounded also.