aslanefe

This is the deluxe door panels, right?

I think member danno adds input capability to original radio, try contacting him. This way your wife can listen her iPod on your original radio.

I bought the cheaper tail light bezels from CJ a few years ago for my 70 and was happy with the fit. Don't know if CJ still sells the ones I bought or use a different supplier now. The ones I bought fit to both sides, not right and left specific like originals. I think the location of little alignment nub makes it a right or left on the originals and the ones I bought did not have that tab so you can put them on either side.

Does the vinyl side of the mustang market panels look/feel like originals or plastic?

I bought both the spectra quarter patch and cheaper quarter skins years ago for different projects; would not buy the spectra patch panel again based on my examination of both parts. I had some rust on outer wheelwell of my daily driver Grande very similar to yours, (on the left side too) but the quarter was good. I made my patch panel for the wheelwell by bending, cutting, welding, forming a piece to fit. You can cut a piece from a repro wheelwell too, which will be easier than fabbing a piece like I did as there are compound curves in that area.

Too late for you but one advice for others; do not buy the patch panels like the Spectra quarter patch in your picture. Spectra patch panels may be a little thicker but the bends are not sharp like originals. Pay a few bucks extra and buy quarter skins (even the cheap ones) and cut what you need from them; the bends on them are sharp, details are a lot better and with less to no wrinkles at bottom. You will save a lot of fitting time and use less filler.

At 6'2", I guess I have to figure out how to modify the seat riser to lower it and still retain the rigidity when I start restoring my 70 vert, even the coupe with original seat foam requires careful manevouring while getting in and out.

3 holes (one smaller than the other 2) on the fwd side of the circled holes; I attached my home made bracket to 2 bigger holes. The nuts welded sheet is long and the smaller hole was used to secure the sheet in place so it won't fall off if I remove the exhaust bracket. It was a little time consuming to do it this way but looks symmetric and no extra holes drilled.

On my original single exhaust, 9" diff 69 Grande, outboard hole is for the clip that secures the diff vent rubber hose. End of the vent hose goes inside the frame/support the hole is on at the aft side of it; if your picture was taken from behind the car, you would have captured he hole which vent hose goes in. I think they put the end of the vent inside a closed area to eliminate dirt etc entering the hose/diff. The other 3 holes close to each other does not exist on mine. Don't know if they make a bracket for left side, but I made a mirror image of the exhaust bracket on the right side using about 1/8" thick sheet and attached it to left side at the same location (on left side). I think I had to fish in (through the shock nut opening in the trunk) a piece of flat sheet with nuts welded on them so I can bolt the home made bracket to.

Why would someone change everything on the car with never sytle but keep it carbureted?

It flows nice; are those 3 knobs the A/C controls?

Well, you know the saying; if you want something done right, do it yourself.

After fixing the prior accident damages on left rear quarter, left door, and a few common rust repairs and some panel alignment, I decided to take care of the old respray paint and painted to original color in base coat/clear coat. Then decided to take care of the knocking original 302 (due to broken piston skirt) by replacing it with an early 80s 302 I had. Converted to manual steering using parts from one of my other cars while keeping the power steering box. Then grafted a Prius electric steering to my original column. Had been daily driving it for the last 8 months with the original upholstery. Decided that it is time to update the upholstery. They do not reproduce 69 Grande upholstery in nugget gold, so bought some material and made my own.

It has been over 24 hrs, let's see the final product.

If the only rust on the quarter is the area seen on the picture, I would only patch that area extending a little bit outside the rusted out area. Then hammer and dolly the other damages. If the only rust is at the bottom of the cut outs for the taillights, I would make small patches for those areas. I made a forming tool from 1/4 inch thick plate to bend patches to fit the shape/flange of those cut outs. Like some other folks, I like the original spot welds and date codes and keep as much of the original metal (eventhough it sometimes takes longer) instead of replacing a big piece with a repro part just for a minor damage (in my opinion) like in your pictures.

Welcome Charles, that really is a retirement project. Have fun.

By the way, one of the holes on the last car I drilled, the brace was welded a little shifted; so the hole came out the edge of the brace. If you drill a pilot hole first, you can spot this issue before you drill the final size hole.

You can leave the old holes, or weld them up if you like. Before drilling the full size hole, after drilling a pilot hole, I welded a piece of steel as thick as the support brace to the edge of the brace where the holes are close to. This way the bolts sit on flat surfaces.

Good job Ridge, Looks like you did not fold the rear edge, right? It is a little late but, you can modify the fold molds to fold the back; make a step on the mold where the cowl induction looking area is so when you fold the high area it is an inch or so longer and angled to meet the under brace. This way top of the induction area will be longer and from side it will be slanted going down to meet the under brace. You need to put some relief cuts to the edges of the induction area so you can fold it without bunching in those areas and weld the cut edges later. Just a thought.

The bracket he is asking about is couple imches above the window stop.

Looking at stangs-R-me's pictures, 1970 filler neck will work for you.

My 69 Grande has brackets similar to the one you have (but not exactly same as your's).The panels sit on them, guess they align the top of the panels to glass.

Looks like the bracket on top of inside of the quarter panel holds the inside panel on a coupe.

May be the brackets were not glued to correct spots thus limiting the adjustment.

RPM's post on this thread describes how to install a relay for the horn, but don't know if 69 and 70 are the same.