aslanefe

Check to see if your distributor and/or engine is grounded.

I believe vacuum canister in passenger wheel well is a factory AC thing, not 69 vs 70.

I am using a returnless in tank pump/level sender (regulator is inside the tank) with original hard fuel lines (rubber changed to EFI rubber lines. I mounted the post pump filter between the hard line coming out of engine compartment on left side fender apron and the EFI unit with rubber hoses.

Glad to see you back in operation.

Midlife, your method did not work for me, it has been 2 days and the black tracks are not drying up.

I have a couple reproduced switches left if you need just the switch. Here is the post for the switches.Reproduction parking brake switch.

If you have a pressure switch (that is working properly), you shouldn't worry about high pressure damaging pump seals (even if you do not have enough cooling over the condenser). My pressure switch has never cut either in the last year or so that I have been daily driving the car, I think that means my original clutch fan is doing a decent job in my climate. Looks like you have more than enough cooling and the pressure switch will be your insurance if the electric fans fail for some reason; I wouldn't worry about the gap between the condenser and radiator. Cheers

By the way, my AC is not as cold in stop and go traffic as on highway either. This is due to using stock condenser and not having an electric fan come on with AC. Putting a stock fan shroud reduced the AC output temp in town driving (still not as cold as highway driving).

I have used my factory condenser, evaporator and radiator. Changed the compressor to Sanden R-134 (and the hoses to fit Sanden), new filter/drier and R-134 in the system. I added a pressure switch just before the factory expansion valve which will cut the power to Sanden clutch when pressure gets high. You might want to add a pressure switch because as far as I know Sanden doesn't have pressure relief valve like the original York units have and if pressures get real high due to a malfunction/or not enough cooling, you will blow something.

I have stock radiator and condenser and fan shroud at stock locations, using 180 F thermostate. Do not have issues with keeping the engine cool on daily driving.

Let me know of you need pictures showing the parts I tried to describe, I have a column out of one of my cars.

You can move the 69 column an inch or more forward or backwards. You have to loosen the screw at the firewall (on the bracket that has the rubber gasket under, the screw tightens the clamp on the lower end of the column). You also have to loosen the bracket that attaches the column at the dash ( two nuts on right side of the column, that squeezes the black bracket that clamps the column, not the bolts that go through aluminum blocks). Then you can pull or push the column. The black bracket has a tab that fits in a slot on the column, that slot is an inch or more long and let's the column slide in an out some.

After you heat with the torch, you need to shrink the bump by hitting it with a body hammer when it is hot then cool it. If you don't hammer it down, it will go back to it's shape before you heated. That disk on the grinder is pushing the bump while heating and shrinking it because of the weight of the grinder and/or you pressing it down on the bump.

My original 3/8" hard fuel lines (2 pieces from the tank to the original mechanical fuel pump) already had the bubble flares at the ends. Put the clamps behind the flares like they were on the original hoses. Used EFI clamps on EFI hoses instead of the spring clamps that were original or the worm gear clamps.

Did you remove the lead at roof/quarter panel joint? Are you going to use filler to fill the gap or weld a strip of metal to cover the gap?

When I converted to TBI, I replaced the original rubber hoses with EFI hoses and used EFI hose clamps; kept the factory metal lines except the one from the fuel pump to carb which was replaced with EFI hose. Have been using it for about 3 weeks and no leaks. I do not have a return line as my return is just after the fuel pump and inside the tank.

If I understand it correctly, he needs to install the solid state 12 to 5 v regulator he got from CJ Pony instead of the original regulator behind the cluster, and also provide 12 volts and ground to his centroid sender (getting the 12v from a source which is powered with key ACC and On positions like the fuse box buss extender or radio power); am I right Mach1 Driver?

No progress? Hurry up, we need more 2/3 Landau 70 Grandes, not many around.

If you remove the cluster, the voltage regulator and 9v battery terminal is next to speedo cable input as far as I remember. The link you posted does not work, but I assume it is one of those solid state (electronic, not bimetallic) voltage regulators that are available from quite a few vendors and you can replace your original regulator with that and get constant 5v needed for your sender then keep the 12 to 5v converter for an other project.

If you need 12 volts for your 12 to 5v converter, "it is not what you want" is you can't get 12 v for your converter from the 9v battery terminal behind the dash cluster. But if you can find the true 5v steady voltage regulator that snaps to 9v battery terminal, you can plug it behind cluster and not need to use your 12 to 5v converter. I believe this is what Midlife's post says.

Mine was working alright until last week, then the temps dropped to around 50F in the mornings and now I have to tune it (change the factory generic configuration file) so it works good in the morning without stalling and shaking till the engine warms up. Timing control seems real easy, I am planning to use a locked and re-indexed Duraspark 2 distributor eventually. Need the Holley coil driver to be able to use the Duraspark and original coil.

If you just used the wizard to set it up and only started it with no drive time with it, you are going to find out it is not just plug 4 wires and forget about it when you start driving it. It needs to be tuned (not learn) especially for starting and driving it in cold weather.

Anybody using Sniper on a 302? If so, what changes did you have to make to the base tables that the Sniper comes with for good cold start/idle and warm idle?

Repop moulding set does not include the clip F, but as far as I remember has the middle clips, rivets to attach them and clips that looks like E.

The screw on F goes through the molding on mine, I did not have the clip. But the clip F might have been left off when the car was painted before my ownership. F shows a screw, the middle clips are pop riveted.