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If you are pressing and holding the trunk botton for 2/ 12 seconds and the lights are not flashing 3 times, there must be something wrong with the remote or the receiver then. Did you check to see if you get - on amber wire?

Did you check to see if you get - on amber wire when you press and hold the bottom for 2 1/2 seconds and the light flashes 3 times??

One more tip, make sure you roll the window all the way down slowly and check the fit also. The glass may bind and break when down if you only check and adjust the fit for up position.

If the felt is not sealing, you have to move the tops of the vertical tracks outside. You can do this by bending the door frame where the tops of the tracks attach and the tab of the track or cutting the attaching tabs from the vertical tracks and rewelding them after you move the track outboard in relation to the tab.

The trim I was talking about is 117 cm long, 6 mounting holes and has the same profile as yours. But your trim is about 105 cm long with 4 holes Looks like you have someone else's trim.

Well, sorry to be the bearer of bad news but the new set may have the same issue in regards to thickness. I went through it a year or so ago and made a lot of phone calls. Steele told me they sell Repops 69-70 outside felt, I don't think there was a Ford tooling for extruding the rubber, may be the tool to locate the clips on the felt. There are two companies that reproduce them, Repops and can't remember the other one on top of my head. Talked to both manufacturers, sent pictures, got dimensions from them and looks like they use the extrusion from the same rubber company so thickness of the felt from both brands are the same. Even talked to the rubber manufacturer to see if they currently have a profile that is as thick or thicker than original, answer was no. I made both manufacturers aware of the issue and hope that they got the rubber manufacturer to go back to the die they used a few years ago as the parts manufactured till about 2017 (as far as I remember) had the correct thickness. I have a set of sportsroof felt made using extrusion made before 2017 and it has the same thickness as original felt.

I usually get my NPD parts from the Florida location. I had fitment issues with the wheel well trim and rocker moulding trim and some other reproduction parts I purchased from them last year. When I called with the issue and asked them if the part I received was the problem or if all the parts they had had the same issues, the sales associate went and checked a bunch of the parts they had in stock and called me back later to telll me they all had the same issue (problem must be the tool).He also told me there was only one manufacturer that manufactures those parts I bought and I can return them if I wanted. I made the parts to fit using shrinker/strecher etc. I have made that shape of trim to fit too some time ago by filling it with molten lead and bending to fit; lead prevents the trim to break/crease. But it is a lot of work and if the cheap repo trim has hard clear anodize on it, you may put tiny cracks on anodize layer at locations you bent.I recommend you call the Florida location (that also houses the owner's hundreds of cars including very low mileage Mustangs), tell them your issue and location and ask them to check the fit of the trim on a reproduction fender extension. They may even have an original fender extension in owner's parts stash that they can check the fit on.

Some non sports roof cars (only some 69s I believe, not 70s) have trims on the bottom of trunk lid and rear quarter panel extensions. That looks a lot like the piece that goes on the trunk lid. I have the rear trim on my 69 Grande. https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2018/05/28/1969-ford-mustang-grande-428cj-an-ultra-rare-tuxedo-clad-street-fighter/ Look at the picture on this link and you will see the rear trim.

Roll the window up and stick the end of outside felt through the gap at few locations after you think you adjusted the glass to your liking. This will tell you if your glass will seal to the felt or not without permanently installing the felt. Installed felt is PITA to remove without destroying the mounting clips on them.

Just a note, I had glue in glass on the car I worked on last year. The shim I put in between glass and C-channel sits on the glued metal part and C-channel. With bolt in glass, I am not sure if putting shim between glass and C-channel is a good idea; the glass may break due to uneven pressure.

I do not understand how moving the bottom of vertical guides do not move the top of the glass in or out especially if the window is in up position. It should move the glass but may be not enough movement for it to sit on the weatherstrip right. If the movement you get is not enough, you can put shims under the plastic guides to tilt the glass. I use hard plastic package material to make thin strips of shims (with a slot for the plastic guides to go through) and paper masking tape to make up the thickness I need. If you put shims under the lower outboard plastics and upper inboard ones, you will move the top of the glass inboard a little bit (this will also reduce the sloppiness). You can also put shims under the top bolts that attach the C-channel to glass (shim goes between the glass and the C-channel bracket) to move the top of the glass inboard. You can use fender/alignment shims or make your own from sheet metal. I assume you will be installing new reproduction outside felts made by Repops. These felts are not as thick as the originals and your glass may not touch them and seal when up (I think I have pictures comparing the the Repops to original in one of my posts here if you want to see the difference). Repops felts made 4-5 years ago were correct thickness, but not anymore. I recommend installing the felts before you adjust the glass. If the glass is not sealing to the felt when up, you have to bend the tab on the door where the vertical channels are attached, or cut the top mounting piece of the channel and weld it after you moved the vertical part outboard a little bit to get the glass closer to the felt and seal. Adjusting aftermarket glass while using aftermarket felt is a long frustrating job (having felt with correct thickness makes it a little easier). If your car is a coupe, it is more work to get the quarter glass to seal with felt and weatherstrip. I went through this on a coupe last year (original glass, Repops felt) and had to do all the tricks I posted above to get the glasses aligned and seal. I wish you a lot of patience and good luck.

How is the glass to felt/weatherstrip contact? Do you have glue in glass or bolt on?

You need to check with an ohm meter; what if there is corrosion on the battery cable lug or engine block where the lug is attached, or the connection is loose.Also, there should be another ground from back of passenger side cylinder head to cowl. Check continuity from battery negative to engine block, to chassis and to distributor using an ohm meter. If you had a slight loose connection, one year of sitting might have caused corrosion on that loose connection breaking the ground. I think this is the case as when you manually ground the coil to battery, you get spark. May be the points is the problem even though it looks clean. By checking continuity between battery negative you can pin point the component/connection where you loose the ground.

Check to see if your distributor and/or engine is grounded.

I believe vacuum canister in passenger wheel well is a factory AC thing, not 69 vs 70.

I am using a returnless in tank pump/level sender (regulator is inside the tank) with original hard fuel lines (rubber changed to EFI rubber lines. I mounted the post pump filter between the hard line coming out of engine compartment on left side fender apron and the EFI unit with rubber hoses.

Glad to see you back in operation.

Midlife, your method did not work for me, it has been 2 days and the black tracks are not drying up.

I have a couple reproduced switches left if you need just the switch. Here is the post for the switches.Reproduction parking brake switch.

If you have a pressure switch (that is working properly), you shouldn't worry about high pressure damaging pump seals (even if you do not have enough cooling over the condenser). My pressure switch has never cut either in the last year or so that I have been daily driving the car, I think that means my original clutch fan is doing a decent job in my climate. Looks like you have more than enough cooling and the pressure switch will be your insurance if the electric fans fail for some reason; I wouldn't worry about the gap between the condenser and radiator. Cheers

By the way, my AC is not as cold in stop and go traffic as on highway either. This is due to using stock condenser and not having an electric fan come on with AC. Putting a stock fan shroud reduced the AC output temp in town driving (still not as cold as highway driving).

I have used my factory condenser, evaporator and radiator. Changed the compressor to Sanden R-134 (and the hoses to fit Sanden), new filter/drier and R-134 in the system. I added a pressure switch just before the factory expansion valve which will cut the power to Sanden clutch when pressure gets high. You might want to add a pressure switch because as far as I know Sanden doesn't have pressure relief valve like the original York units have and if pressures get real high due to a malfunction/or not enough cooling, you will blow something.

I have stock radiator and condenser and fan shroud at stock locations, using 180 F thermostate. Do not have issues with keeping the engine cool on daily driving.

Let me know of you need pictures showing the parts I tried to describe, I have a column out of one of my cars.

You can move the 69 column an inch or more forward or backwards. You have to loosen the screw at the firewall (on the bracket that has the rubber gasket under, the screw tightens the clamp on the lower end of the column). You also have to loosen the bracket that attaches the column at the dash ( two nuts on right side of the column, that squeezes the black bracket that clamps the column, not the bolts that go through aluminum blocks). Then you can pull or push the column. The black bracket has a tab that fits in a slot on the column, that slot is an inch or more long and let's the column slide in an out some.