aslanefe

I repaired an old solenoid I had and put that on. Tightened the terminals of the Echlin and put it up as spare.

The problem turned out to be the S terminal of the new Napa Echlin solenoid. This is the second Echlin solenoid that had the same issue. Seems like the S post is a little loose and not contacting with the magnet wire inside sometimes.

I made a set from aluminum long time ago for a set of wheels I had. And made a set from steel for the Magnum 500s I currently have on the car. Can't remember the alloy I used (6061 possibly) but aluminum was fine. Used whatever material I had laying around. If you find the right size of steel tubing, you do not need to remove a lot of material (especially from the inside) and should be able to machine it on a mini lathe with small passes. Or you can get 2 different sizes of tubing and slip and weld them before machining. That is what I had done with the Aluminum one, the lip was welded/machined.

Myself and my friend made them on the lathe ourselves, don’t know if they are available for sale. A machine shop (that has a lathe) can take measurements of the hubs and wheel of your car and can make them for you. The dimensions of your wheel may be different due to manufacturer of the wheel, it is best to get the dimension from your own Magnum 500.

It has been a while so I don’t remember the dimensions Terry. But disc and drum were the same as far as I can remember. Made the main out side diameter to fit tight inside the Magnum 500, inside diameter was slip fit to hub of the disc and rear axle. Put a lip with a bigger outside diameter so it stays in place and can’t move out (but not too thick so it won’t push the wheel out). If you have access to factory steel wheels, you can use the measurement of it’s inner diameter as the inner diameter of the ring as the factory steel wheels are hub centric. My vibration was at higher speed (around 100 mph). A friend with a 69 428 Cobra Jet also had vibration with his Magnum 500s, rings got rid of it.

Black countersink phillips head sheet metal screws. Chrome instead of black will match better in your case.

Yes Terry, that is it.

I made centric rings and installed them on Magnum 500s so they will center from the axle hubs. They can cause vibration when they are centered only by the lugs.

Good point Ed. I think my problem is the ignition switch as if it did not crank at first try, sometimes it will crank if I cycle the key without touching the shifter.

Yup, will try that too, thanks.

Thanks Midlife. I am chasing a no start issue. Sometimes when I turn the key, it won’t crank; especially if it sat for a day or two. Sometimes turning the key on-off a few times, it will crank. If I apply + to S terminal, it will crank. And for the next few starts, it will start with key. But if it is not started for sometime, like for a day, may need to apply + to S terminal again. It may be the ignition switch or neutral/back up switch acting up.

I assume the wire that goes from ignition switch to Start terminal of the solenoid on a 1969 is through the bullhead connector behind the fuse box. If so, which pin is it? Thanks in advance @Midlife

Thanks, found a pair from a forum member.

You are looking real old in that last picture.

I can’t believe the antenna is not broken on that car. Are the seats Grande seats with buttons on seat backs?

First post of the new month again.

Got the first post of the new month :)

I think Lizard skin will be good to stop resonation of those big panels.

There is no exact reproduction of 70 coupe quarter panel; there is a 70 vert reproduction quarter. That panel you bought must be for 70 vert which has the 69 body line above the side marker, but it is also missing the 70 coupe specific body line below the side marker. I measured “height” dimensions of a few cars with no frame damages while I was building my body jig and they were very close to “height” dimensions given at Liskey diagram.

I used 12-305 but no traverse muffler, I put 2 mufflers where resonators would be.

I have a few single exhaust cars and fuel sender wire comes out from middle, not trunk drop-off; wonder if dual exhaust comes out of trunk drop-off.

Jay, Midlife said dual exhaust wire goes out from center; so you should be good. On a side note, my single exhaust cars also have the wire coming out from center. Wonder if Midlife meant to say dual exhaust comes out from passenger drop-off?

I was worried that the wire could get chafed and start a fire as it does not have a grommet for the hole you used on trunk floor.

I have been telling this to people when they ask about Holley Sniper or any other "self learning" efi system.

I would put more caster if you can, not limit it to 3°-3.5°; I have about 7° caster on 2 of my cars that have modified UCAs.