aslanefe

As far as I remember, the cross member is not adjustable but the mount and/or transmission has little adjustment.

Most of the sheet metal you buy will need to be aligned/body worked to match the other panels (unless you have NOS or undamaged used parts). When ypu say split, do you mean separate the skin from the door frame? If so, you can pull the bevel out without separating the skin from the frame. I assume when you say bevel, you mean the body line on the door that follows the crest of the fender. Get yourself a profile gauge if you don't have one. You can copy the profile of the non-matching area from the door on the other side or from someone else's door and match your door to that profile. That way you don't have to remove and install the fender as much to check fit.

How does the bevel of the door match to the quarter panel assuming your quarter is original.

I grafted a Prius column on to my 69 column. Cut a section out of the middle part of 69 column, cut some from both ends of Prius column and joined them together. Using it in fail safe mode without any sensors so I have constant assist instead of variable assist. Using stock turn signal switch, stock rim blow steering wheel, stock 16/1 steering box with rag joint. I have not done a 70 column yet, will make one for one of my 70s eventually. Grafting the Prius to 70 column will be more involved due to the ignition switch and shifter lock out being on the column. I used my lathe to machine the shafts to fit each other and keep them true while welding. Or you can buy a generic one with a generic column, a few vendors sell them. Don't know how ignition switch, steering wheel, wiring etc are handled on these generic ones.

I prefer to use a cutting disk to grind it off instead of using a grinding bit as the bit might bite, jump and create more damage to paint. Also, make sure to cover the car before grinding.

You do not need to take the car to the paint shop to touch it up. The area will be covered by the hinge, so a drop or two of any color paint or even superglue will do. You will not need big guns, grinding off the flange is the easiest way to remove a spun rivnut if you can't re-squeze it.

On a side note, run a tap through the other rivnuts before you install the screws.

You can carefully grind the flange of the rivnut and push it in; you might be able to retrieve the piece that falls down or just leave it. Then install a new rivnut into same hole. I would touch up the paint before I install the new rivnut.

I would remove the leaf spring and cut the rusted section out to see the extend of damage first. You might be able to get away with a patch.

No problem. The one on the 69 coupe does not go below the inner panel top line so you can see the metal between where the windlace end and panel. Windlace must have been installed too forward or shrank a little. On the Grande, you can't see metal, windlace goes under the panel.

First picture, 69 Grande with inner panel installed; 2nd picture, 69 Coupe inner panel installed; 3rd, 70 Cougar without inner panel.

Nevermind, found it. Graphic express and Phoenix Graphics make them.

Who reproduces the 1969 Grande stripe?

Or are you asking about the one that goes down at the rear of door opening? That one does not have a trim piece either, inner quarter panel presses on it.

The one that holds the headliner, the end is not visible (under the inner quarter panel) and no trim piece. Front end is under the kick panel (kick panel has allowance for the windlace). I can take pictures of 2 cars, one has inner quarter panel installed, other not if you still need pictures.

Sam, I do not understand what you do not like about the shroud you have; it looks like my original 1970 shroud I posted pictures on your other post. I have a fan that is a little over 17" dia with clutch. The opening on that shroud is 18 7/8 inches, it will be tight to fit an 18" fan. The shroud have 2 openings for the top radiator support, and you can see the support installed on my pictures.

Can you put a hose clamp on it and tighten it to squeeze the retainer?

Hi Sam, Below are some pictures from my 69 with a 302. The 302 I am using temporarily (until I rebuild the original engine with correct VIN number) is a later model with radiator outlet on driver's side so I am temporarily using the radiator and the shroud from a 70 Cougar with 351C, FMX and A/C. May be they will help you.

It does not look too bad in the picture, if it was my car I would remove the bad section and put a patch instead of replacing the whole panel or leaving it as is.

I used the GM style prop valve for disk/drum when I converted my 69 to front disks. Summit and other vendors sell a disc/drum and a disc/disc GM style prop valve (different part numbers) that makes me think that there is a difference inside the valve, maybe a different spring. I made a bracket to mount the prop valve to stock location on fender well. Had to bend the original lines to rear and front brakes a little bit to attach them to the valve (but did not have to cut or make new lines). Bent premade lines from mc to prop valve. Brake warning switch connection was easy, the original plug to switch has 2 pins and wires but they are jumped on the original switch ( if you look at the pins on the original switch closely, you can see the jumper inside) so I jumped the pins of the original plug and attached it to the one wire from the GM style prop valve.

Drum mc should have a residual pressure valve at the mc outlet (that goes to the drum side) under the flare whether it is power or not. Drum mc generally have small reservoir. That is why disc drum mc usually have one big, one small reservoir; big for disc, small for drum side. Don't know what bore size is for a factory power disc/drum mc. Those videos may help you figure out why your push rod is breaking/bending; wrong pedal for the booster might be the cause.

Here are couple videos that might help you. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MbW_v_DdEuU https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PGO0aWJkrmo

Yes.

After you turn the car off, if the booster is not leaking, you will have softer brakes if you brake 2-3 more times due to the vacuum saved in the booster. With 2-3 more brake applications, booster will consume the saved vacuum and you will have harder (no vacuum boosted) brake. Does not matter if the engine is on or off for bleeding the brakes. If you do not hear a hissing when you remove the vacuum hose from the booster after turning the engine off, I would think that you have a leaking booster which needs to be replaced or repaired. There may be brake specialists that can rebuild boosters in Italy.

Thanks for the pictures.