aslanefe

On that diagram, everything is based on X-6 and X-6 1/2, ideally you need to level to datum based on getting these 2 dimensions right.

Yup, lowering the back 4 1/8 will lift A about1/4" over B (estimating without doing the math based on dimensions from drawing).

@sixt9stang I thnk that the issue is you have your rockers level. The diagram does not show rockers so may be the rockers are not level on that diagram. Try to level the car to 11 3/16 dimension at the aft end of frame rail, and X-6 dimension under front frame rail and see what A and B comes out to.

I looked at 2 more 69s and 2 70 doors and the bumpers on them are like yours. Who knows why the bumpers on one 69 with original doors are different.

Change your brake fluid too if it has been there a few years.

Those pins/contacts are ground flat right? How about chamfering the edges of them so the edge can't dig in and squeak? An other idea is to put solder on them.

You made me curious as those bumpers looked different and I looked at the bumpers on one of my 69s; the bumpers are solid blocks without the V notch like yours are. Is your car a 70?

Just looked at my 69. Correction to above, clip nut goes on to bottom middle attachment hole on the grill, the nut goes through the bracket to the clip nut.

@smh00n As far as remember, the clip nut from the grill mounting hardware goes on the lower hole on that grille bracket and the screw attaches the grill to that clip nut. One of the plasic push pins attaches the top middle of grille to the hole on top of the bracket. The other plastic push pins goes to the corners of grill. There are no other parts between the grille and that bracket.

https://www.cjponyparts.com/grille-support-1970/p/G6S/ https://www.cjponyparts.com/cj-classics-hood-latch-support-brace-1969-1970/p/M3547B/

https://www.cjponyparts.com/69-70-stone-deflector-8-hardware-only-1969-1970/p/F137/ https://www.cjponyparts.com/amk-products-grille-mounting-hardware-kit-1969-1970/p/F139/ https://www.cjponyparts.com/70-headlamp-adjusters-14-hardware-only-1970/p/F3992/

Are you suggesting that he should use dielectric grease on MIL?

@geraldchainsaw You remove the front bezel while holding the switch from the back. They make a special tool to remove the threaded part of the bezel, but you can cut a piece of sheet metal to size and use it to loosen the bezel. After you remove the bezel and pull the switch out from under the dash a little bit, you pull the connector to remove it from the switch. To remove the lock/tumbler from the switch, you put the key on, turn it and insert a paper clip to the small hole you see on the face of the lock and push it in. The lock will come out with the key attached. Install the lock into new switch by pushing it in and click into place. Install the connector to switch, position the switch in the hole on dash, align the small alignment tab of the bezel and screw the threaded part of the bezel. The aftermarket switches are not known to be of high quality, so I remove the back of original switches (the black bakelite piece with pins which the connector attaches to), clean the oxidation on the copper contacts inside, put die-electric grease and close it up and use them.

1969 or 1970, the ignition switches are different between them.

Yes, there is a gold stripe in the middle of the black stripe, and black stripe in the middle of the gold stripe. I am not sure if it is true but I was told that the original stripe was reflective, don't know if the repros are reflective or not. The one I had to remove from my 69 for paint was not reflective, I don't know if it was original as the car had a respray. On that stripe, the gold stripe on black was painted pinstripe. Might be that when they resprayed the car years ago, they made their own stripe instead of using an original stripe kit.

Just remembered, there are schematics made by Mach1 Driver on the How to's section; did you go over those schematics?

I have an original 70 switch on 70 column that I bought to use on my 70 vert. If you can't find a wiring diagram in a day or two message me and I will remove the switch and try to get you which wire goes into which pin on the connector.

Also, try following the wires on both switches and make sure they start from the same connections and go to same spots on the connector.

Blinkers and brake lights are controlled by the cam on the left, and hazard switch is seperate (on the right). Repop switches are not known to be of decent quality, looks like a short or no contact issue under the cam. Can you see where the spark is coming from? You may also have a pinched wire.

I added a ground wire from the battery negative post to the radiator support under one of the bolts for the headlight housing on my 69.

I hope you have the trim pieces that go on the roof at the end of vinyl top.,They are very hard to come by, I had make that trim for my car as mine was missing.

That's a sad to hear. Might want to check Craiglist and eBay on your area.

Not familiar with Retro spund but did you check the fuses? Some times there is an other fuse inside the unit.

Can you put one or two 90 degree elbows between the fitting and intake?

Yes, work it without cutting; if you cut, you will warp the panel when you weld it back if you are not a good welder/body man.