aslanefe

Just FYI, as far as I remember front splash shield for 70 is not same as one for 69 but similar, Brian's photo should help you install a 70 shield.

Booster does not affect the pedal height where the brakes stop the car. Booster only reduces the effort your foot excerts on the pedal. MC diameter change changes how far down the pedal goes to stop the car. If your original MC diameter was bigger (let's say it was 1 1/16) and now that you have 1 inch MC, the pedal needs to go down more to move the same amount of fluid to the calipers (and rear cylinders). After you fill the calipers then the pressure in the caliper goes up and stops the car. MC dia goes up, the brake pedal travel goes down but effort goes up. MC dia goes down, the effort goes down but pedal travel goes up. Booster makes the effort go down, but not affect pedal travel. Above is assuming your push rod is adjusted correctly.

If you have smaller diameter master, your pedal will go down more compared to bigger dia master before stopping. Need to know your master diameters (the old/original one and the one you have now).

As I modeled it after the original, I ground the swaged end of the stud that attaches the roller and removed the stud (and broken roller) out. Then drilled a hole in the middle of the stud I removed (the swaged end), threaded the hole and used a screw and 2 washers (one with an inside hole bigger than the diameter of stud, one smaller) to attach the stud back to frame with new roller. The screw and washers are where the swage was. I guess you can use a bolt and nut but you have to make sure the bolt head sinks inside the roller and does not scrape on the channel it runs on. You might be able to find a roller in hardware store which can work (or modified to work). I couldn't, so I made my own. I found the model and can print when I get a chance. If you want 3D printed one, PM me how many you want and your need to have date and we can go from there.

A couple cars i dealt with same issue is that what usually happens is one of the tabs (springy parts on the side of the roller) breaks and creates slop/rocking of the glass and jams while rolling up and down. Slot you see on Kris' photo is also on original rollers to prevent them from rolling so they slide with springy sides always touching the slide. I modeled the roller very close to originals (with springy part etc)If you do not want to follows Kris'DIY, I can look around and see if I can find the 3D file and print for you; won't cost much if I can find the file.

Are you talking about the rollers that are installed with swaged stand off to the glass frame and slide inside the 3 rails? If so, I could not find any reproductions. I had a couple which had the springed edges broken. So I 3D printed a couple from ABS, ground the swaged part of the stand off, drilled a hole through the stand off and tapped it. Installed the 3D printed roller using the modified stand off and a bolt. Have been using them for a few years now and still working (but the rear windows do not get rolled up and down a lot).

Is the starter slow/lugging when the engine is hot and you do a real short stop? If so, your starter may be getting heat soaked. In that case, you need a shield around the starter (or wrap the headers) to keep the heat from headers etc away.

I did not want to cut the doors either; look at my post from 22 April 2021 on "What did you do to/for your Mustang today" thread on where I put front speakers.

Don't know which one is correct, but I would start with 18 (the middle one) and check speedometer reading with GPS then go up or down if needed. At least it is easy to change the gear.

Ospho is cheaper at Ace hardware.

I put a face shield, thick welding gloves and a thick coat to wire brush it, then put "Ospho".

Look at @Vicfregposts, I believe he has Ranger master and has a booster on his 70 vert project. You can see what booster he uses.

Do not know what brand/PN of booster, but if the booster fits to firewall/pedal and the master fits to booster (holes lining up, master/booster not hitting some where) and you can adjust the booster rod to master clearance, you can use it. My 70 Grande has a booster for a Fiat. Check the bore of the master or search with it's part number to see what diameter bore it has though.

As far as I know, Ranger master, and adjustable prop valve with cobra discs is a common conversion; I would use them. Also I wouldn't just scrap the disc assembly, master and booster for the 69 as someone else might be able to check/test them and use. Let me know if you are going to scrap the 69 disc parts, I will gladly pay shipping for them.

I cut a plastic water or soda bottle like a funnel, drill 2 holes and tie a wire then attach it to the drain and direct the end of make shift funnel to a bucket or catch pan.

I do not know of anything that those holes are used for; they may be locating holes used during assembly.

I would not hammer the booster; you may damage/mess the rubber seal.

69-70 coupes are not sought after yet, so not every part is reproduced. You have to find a donor or fix what you have.

Where is the cotter pin? :)

@Midlife translation required on isle, I mean Technical Forum.

"It looks like the nut would be installed from the back side of the valance with the fingers facing / gripping on the outside of valance." is the correct answer if you are going to use those nuts.

I believe convertible floor pan has the lip bent down and you can install this one without removing the seat riser on a fastback. You can cut the old one out as big as the replacement one so the aft portion is at or past the seat riser, then weld this one with lip down on rocker (with seat riser in place), and butt weld the aft and inboard sides. It will not be correct but you are already using a non-correct for 69-70 front floor pan anyway.

Did you try scraping the padding and insulation with putty knife or wire brush? Then you can use a solvent to remove the glue residue.

Move the clip away from the marked area, cut a groove like this with a dremel etc at the marked area . Move one end of the clip just past the groove you cut then push it through the groove.

How about drilling a hole or cutting a slot on the shaft that goes half way in to the end of the groove? This way you can move the end of the clip a little past the groove and pry that end with a screw driver from the outer edge of the clip.