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Couple tips. I would not use the Harbor Freight or other brand portable spot welders like that on structural welds. They do not apply enough pressure to create a good/strong weld. I use them to spot weld non structural stuff. Also, make sure you get the datum line correct on the table as all other dimensions are from the Datum line. That sketch does not show rocker panels, so don't assume rockers are parallel to the table.

Most folks that go efi change the tank and run new fuel lines. Might ask those if they are willing to supply you the bracket they do not use any more.

Here is a photo of the clip from a 1970.

Brian, I got one good , one bad news for you. The good one; looked at the 1970 Grande I am restoring, the clip is NOT spot welded. It has an expanded piece at the back which goes in the hole on trunk floor, installed by pushing it in to the hole. Put a putty knife between the left over piece of the clip and trunk floor and pry (2 knifes on opposite sides might work better, I squeezed the end and pushed it as there was no gas tank in the way). You will see I I tried to describe. Bad news, don't know if it is reproduced. Might be able to find one on a parts car.

Brian, due to the bend at the edges of the metal around the floor where tank sits, that clip may not work unless you cut the bent edge of the floor off. Or you could cut that clip and tack weld it to floor around the edges of the clip.

$25 per set (3 each) plus shipping.

Vic, FYI, the transmission lock interfaces with the ignition tumbler also. If you cut the tab, it means the collar tied to it is free to rotate. This means while you are steering, it will rotate and when you stop and try to remove the key from ignition, the key will not fully turn back and you will not be able to remove the key. You have to twist the trans lock collar, get it to right spot to be able to fully turn the key and remove it. You MUST secure the trans lock collar at the right spot and prevent it from turning if you do not want to encounter "key won't turn all the way to release" situation; if you do not secure the collar, you have to twist it to right spot any time you can't turn the key and remove it. I taped the collar with cloth tape to the non-moving collar that the tumbler is on on a 1970 I put C6 which did not have trans lock lever.

The gage pod is an option, but you have to look at if your plastic collar is secure enough and won't rotate. There is a special clip that secures that plastic collar, if it is not missing and not broken, you should be fine with installing the pod on the plastic collar. But if that clip is broken or missing (which is often the case) the collar will rotate and pod will not stay at the same spot when the car bounces around.

Vic, the trans lock is a tube inside the column, outside tube of the steering column does not rotate. The metal collar that is closest to the key is the one that is attached to trans lock.There is a plastic collar that goes over the steering column that covers the ignition switch (the switch itself, not the keyed part), the rod that goes to ignition switch etc between the gage cluster and the trans lock collar.

The way that collar is installed, I am not sure if it will hold a rally pack and not twist around with the top heavy weight. I recommend you to look at your car on how that collar is mounted/installed and if it will twist or not before you buy and install it.

1969 and 1970 columns are not the same. Are you looking for 1970 column diameter? If you are looking for 1970, it has a plastic collar on the column, so you would need the diameter of the collar, not the steering column.

And to position/aim a camera while you are upside down on your head working blind by feel with your fingers in a tight area. If you had 4 arms, may be. Only thing that helped was I had the AC box from my Cougar on the bench as reference to figure out what/how to do. If AC is not charged or get it evacuated and remove the whole box. Worst thing was, I had rebuilt the box a few months ago; had tested the heater core that was in there but it gave up when I reved past 5500 rpm later on.

I loosened the lower dash but not completely removed it. Removed the dash pad, glove box and clock panel. Loosened the AC box and split it in place and replaced the heater core. Did this to not remove AC lines as it was charged. Would be easier if you removed the box though.

Looks like a Holden ute (pick up for folks in the US).

Can you give me sometime to find them? They were not where I thought I put them. I think I need to stop working on my 1970 Grande and organize my shop.

Go to your inbox. On left there will be topics of conversations with a box. Tick the box for the specific conversation you want to delete and choose delete. Or open a conversation, on top right, click options and choose delete conversation.

Printed ABS, PLA etc are not sealed; they are porous. We printed some AC ducts for aircraft at work and have to paint them afterwards to seal, otherwise they leaked. I think printed metal is sealed but it is way expensive.

Jay, fyi, before you print something, you need to think about the environment the parts is going to be used also. Like heat, UV, wear etc and choose the correct flament kind. Also on items with small details or critical dimensions, you need to create the 3D with your printers specs/capabilities etc, print a sample, measure and modify the model most of the time. So if I gave you the models I created/printed parts with, the part you printed from that on your printer may not work. For example the ears/tabs of the window roller, I had to modify a few times to get the ears/tabs to have the spring action when printed. I also made the rubber piece that is part of the horn switch of standard 70 steering wheel from flexible flament and had to modify the model 4-5 times to have my printer print a functioning piece.

Yes, boxes are quite different. But according to the link he provided, he bought a kit that comes with an aftermarket box that is installed in place of the factory box.

As far as I know, with that kit you have to cut the holes on lower dash and the kit should have a template for the holes. You do not need to buy a lower dash. And that kit requires you to cut a non ac dash pad to install the dash went; if you bought an ac dash, I believe the went will be small for the opening and you have to make a panel to fill the gap between the went and opening on the dash.

It has been a few years since I reassembled my 69 Grande; if my memory serves me right, it had the smaller clips. Looks like both smaller and bigger clips will work and might be that they used some left over 68 clips on your car if it was an early production car.

By the way, been to Brisbane.

On my 69, some of the pins were "flattened" as you call and some had the "fasteners". The car had been painted before, I think they flattened the ones when they lost some of the fasteners or damaged them while removing for paint. It is easier to put the fasteners and less chance of messing it up; so I believe factory should have used the fasteners instead of flattening them.

Don't know why you want to put autometer temp gauge as Sniper shows coolant temp on display if you want. Sniper provided temp sensors often does not read correct, I had to replace it. I installed the Sniper temp sensor on intake, and installed the original temp sensor which goes to original temp gauge on thermostat housing using a housing that has a port for sensor. As far as I remember, the housing I used is Duralast brand. Both Sniper and original gauge show the coolant temp. If you have to have autometer temp gauge, installing it on the thermostat housing is the easiest. A sensor is installed on housing will read a little low when thermostat is closed though.

Hat is spot welded. If you remove it you have to figure out how you are going to reattach it.