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aslanefe

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Posts posted by aslanefe

  1. Posted · Report reply

    58 minutes ago, stangs-R-me said:

    If a twist on type, turn it counterclockwise to remove.

    Scott Drake and likely others offers a kit that adds a locking function to any classic Mustang twist-on gas cap.   It is a pin type thing that you need to open the truck to pull the pin back so you can then turn the gas cap.   Pretty cool, I just stumbled on it on CJPP this past week ...

    Scott Drake ACC-9030-LOCK Mustang Gas Cap Lock 1965-1973| CJ Pony Parts

    ... maybe your car has one of these !!

    Doug

     

     

    I have been using that gas cap lock on one of my cars for years, it stopped people from playing with my gas cap, trying to steal it etc.

  4. Posted · Report reply

    69 rocker panel molding is aluminum, not stainless. It is bright dipped anodized (as far as I remember). It has to be stripped then anodized again after it is buffed/polished. If not anodized, it will dull. Buffing usually do not remove the anodization as it is a hard coating. Buffing the anodized part will make it a little shinier but not as shiny as original.

    The repro ones are okay, they are made from softer material but anodized. You need to deburr the ends so it won't scratch your paint, may need to grind the ends to fit the fenders better etc and the hole for the screw at the aft end of the right side may need to be tweaked. I was missing the left side molding on my 69 Grande so I used a repro set with above work, can't remember if it was from NPD but am happy with it. 

  7. Posted · Report reply

    10 hours ago, Brian Conway said:

    A couple pics from the underside.  1st Above the marker light is the bumper side bracket shiny nut. 2nd connection to the headlight bucket.  More?  Brian  

    69 Valance Strut.JPG

     

    Brian, the bolt that goes through the valance to the fender extension on top right of the above picture missed the clip nut.

  8. Posted · Report reply

    70 vert quarter panels and quarter extensions are different that 69 coupe, 69 vert and 70 coupe quarter panels and quarter extensions. Vic's quarter panel and quarter extension is correct for a 70 vert. 70 vert quarters and quarter extensions have the body line behind the wheel (like 69 vert and coupe quarter panel and extension), 70 coupes have smooth quarter (without body line) and matching quarter extension. 69 vert quarter panel and quarter extension is same as 69 coupe quarter panel and quarter extension with the recess for the molding in front of the wheel on the quarter panel; 70 vert and coupe quarters do not have the recess for the molding in front of the wheel. 70 coupe quarter panels are not reproduced, they sell the 70 vert repro quarters as 70 coupe quarters (which is not the same).

  16. Posted · Report reply

    2 hours ago, Mach1 Driver said:

    This is NPDs kit. The screws with the cone shaped washers are for the bottom of the door panel where the carpet is. I'm not sure what the pop rivets are for- someone here will know.

    As far as I remember, the rivets are to attach the pull cups.

     

    11 hours ago, Vicfreg said:

    1.  Door panels

    My car did not come from the factory with deluxe door panels. So, there are no holes drilled in the lower part of the door to attach the carpeted area of the door panel to.  Looking for a template, pictures, type of fasteners, etc so I can drill some holes and use the proper hardware to attach the panels to the doors.

    I do not think there is a template for the screws on the bottom of the door panels, because the old panels I have on my cars do not have the holes at same exact locations. The screws are about 1" inches from the bottom (and front and aft edges). Seems like they installed the panel, and drilled/screwed the panel and door at the same time.

    det0326 reacted to this

  17. Posted · Report reply

    That is a flimsy piece, can't see how it stabilizes the heavy cast sliding caliper. Also can't see which heat it shields and what it guards against. 

    May be it centers the caliper by pushing the caliper out a very small amount so the pads do not drag when not braking. But I had that piece missing on one of my cars for over 25 years and did not have the issue of pad dragging.

  19. Posted · Report reply

    On 1/17/2024 at 9:23 AM, Machspeed said:

    Sorry, maybe not clear on my part. Gap is where the bottom of the fender attaches to the rocker area into the captive nut. Spacers go in there but that's a lot of spacers to fill that gap.  

    The tab on the fender that the bolt goes through (which is a part of the brace on the back of the fender); bend that tab up towards the rocker; then you do not need that thick of a spacer.

  22. Posted · Report reply

    10 hours ago, Machspeed said:

    Braces are front and rear only, large area in the middle with no bracing. I saw somewhere where a fella made a brace but don't recall where. I also talked to a local guy about adding a brace so, I'd very much welcome your photos and info on this brace, so please post on it. 

    Thanks for the well wishes too, appreciate that!  

    I'll get you some photos in a day or two.

  25. Posted · Report reply

    12 hours ago, TexasEd said:

    well, you resurrected a post I'm interested in.

    I'm going to do all the trim assembly on my car to save labor.  I have my original aluminum fender extension trim but it is dented in a few places so I bought new.  The only parts I'm nervous about are the curved parts around the headlights.  I'll definitely get those on before I attach to the fenders.

     

    Ed, if the fender extensions are not painted yet, test fit and align the repro trims now so you do not mess up the paint later on while aligning/fitting the trim.

    TexasEd reacted to this
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