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That is great news Ben.

69 rocker panel molding is aluminum, not stainless. It is bright dipped anodized (as far as I remember). It has to be stripped then anodized again after it is buffed/polished. If not anodized, it will dull. Buffing usually do not remove the anodization as it is a hard coating. Buffing the anodized part will make it a little shinier but not as shiny as original. The repro ones are okay, they are made from softer material but anodized. You need to deburr the ends so it won't scratch your paint, may need to grind the ends to fit the fenders better etc and the hole for the screw at the aft end of the right side may need to be tweaked. I was missing the left side molding on my 69 Grande so I used a repro set with above work, can't remember if it was from NPD but am happy with it.

A small bucket, some plywood, masking tape and tin sheet.

See my post from April 22, 2021 on this link for couple ideas. https://1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/48584-what-did-you-do-tofor-your-mustang-today/page/86/&tab=comments#comment-317302

Brian, the bolt that goes through the valance to the fender extension on top right of the above picture missed the clip nut.

70 vert quarter panels and quarter extensions are different that 69 coupe, 69 vert and 70 coupe quarter panels and quarter extensions. Vic's quarter panel and quarter extension is correct for a 70 vert. 70 vert quarters and quarter extensions have the body line behind the wheel (like 69 vert and coupe quarter panel and extension), 70 coupes have smooth quarter (without body line) and matching quarter extension. 69 vert quarter panel and quarter extension is same as 69 coupe quarter panel and quarter extension with the recess for the molding in front of the wheel on the quarter panel; 70 vert and coupe quarters do not have the recess for the molding in front of the wheel. 70 coupe quarter panels are not reproduced, they sell the 70 vert repro quarters as 70 coupe quarters (which is not the same).

As far as I remember, you can install "that switch" without removing the shifter lever.

That is why I said "that switch" :)

https://bcbroncos.com/shop/drivetrain/auto-trans/21-52041-c4-neutral-safety-switch/ See the photo at the link above for location of that switch.

You do not need to remove the shift handle to install that switch, it is installed on the transmission over the shift shaft.

Sorry to hear about Annie and Suzy.

Eventhough February is already short; with this many spam posts, looks like it is going to be a real short month this time.

Do these scammers post via hacking without an admin approval to be a member?

As far as I remember, the rivets are to attach the pull cups. I do not think there is a template for the screws on the bottom of the door panels, because the old panels I have on my cars do not have the holes at same exact locations. The screws are about 1" inches from the bottom (and front and aft edges). Seems like they installed the panel, and drilled/screwed the panel and door at the same time.

That is a flimsy piece, can't see how it stabilizes the heavy cast sliding caliper. Also can't see which heat it shields and what it guards against. May be it centers the caliper by pushing the caliper out a very small amount so the pads do not drag when not braking. But I had that piece missing on one of my cars for over 25 years and did not have the issue of pad dragging.

Speaking of calipers, I can't think of a use for the metal shield on the inside of the caliper; does anyone know what that shield is for?

The tab on the fender that the bolt goes through (which is a part of the brace on the back of the fender); bend that tab up towards the rocker; then you do not need that thick of a spacer.

Welcome back folks.

I think I know what you mean. I'll get you a photo of which tab to bend.

I'll get you some photos in a day or two.

I am not seeing a 1/2" gap on the photo, can you post one showing this gap? You can bend the tab at the aft bottom of the fender some to use thinner shims/washers if I am understanding your issue correctly.

If you are buying tubular UCA, definitely get the +3 for more caster.

Ed, if the fender extensions are not painted yet, test fit and align the repro trims now so you do not mess up the paint later on while aligning/fitting the trim.

By the way, glad your health is better now.

John, sports roof do not have roof braces under the roof, right? Coupes have 2 braces, one in the middle and one between that and rear window but my first 70 Grande and 69 Grande has the oil canning on the roof between the front brace and windshield like yours. And the 70 Grande I am working on had it too. I made a 3rd brace from a metal conduit and installed between the front brace and windshield frame on the 70 Grande I am working on to fix the issue as I did not want to try to metal work it and make it worse. It is easy to mess up a big panel like the roof unless you are a real pro at metal work. I can get you some photos of my fix if you need. A heavy layer of bed liner or self sticking sound deadener/insulation should work too; I will also be applying self sticking on the roof.