69Stanger408

Just put a manual transmission in it.  Most today won't be able to drive it.

She deserved to come out of the garage and take in the sun 

She deserved to come out of the garage and take in the sun 

She deserved to come out of the garage and take in the sun 

She deserved to come out of the garage and take in the sun 

She deserved to come out of the garage and take in the sun 

Tinman, didn't know this was you. I followed you home a few months ago, I was checking out the rear flip windows on your original for fitment in comparison with mine. Small world.

I'll post more details once I get a chance to sit down and sort though things, however it's ALIVE after the first turn of the key.  Inglese intake, Holley Terminator X ECU.  I had to re-do the IAC wiring (the idle is a bit high in my first start-up video here) so my idle rpm and idle a/f are bang on.  It's coil- for spark, so dual-sync distributor is next...
 
hopefully link works:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/pjxve7SniZCodY1X9

I buy the parts I expect to replace later on vehicles I don't plan to sell from Autozone as they have life time warranty. I recently bought a Duralast fan clutch and it was made in USA; this does not mean all their parts are made in USA. Get their new MC not the rebuild one as the rebuild one I put on my Bronco in 2009 leaked this year and Autozone replaced it. This time I paid the difference and got the new one. Other parts stores also sell parts with life time warranty.

High quality, 100% copper, with top shelf ends and heat shrink. No corners cut in this car, that's thing about it. No matter how much time, patience, and quality work you put into it, things can go arise which are out of your control. The fact that the fuse did what it was supposed to is take away. Adding an additional one on the alt feed to the power distro to isolate the even further. The more the merrier

To all,
The following is in reference to electrical distribution of my 69 Mach One, which I adopted from VicFreg. Much time and effort was put into carefully installing my electrical system but as you can see a failure of materials could be catastrophic.
Wanted to drop you a note and thank you. As you may recall, I copied your electrical lay out with the battery / solenoid in the trunk, on/off switch, fuse protection and two distributions (one behind AC in passenger compartment and one in engine bay). Yesterday I was test driving the car and the entire electrical shut down. All dead. I got the car home and started to trouble shoot via a meter. Sure enough, the 175Amp fuse on the battery board blew. So I started to ohm out each wire on the distribution block to see which one was connected to ground (which caused the fuse to blow) because the main wire distribution wire actually ohm'd to ground. First wire I disconnected and tested was the alternator (as this block was much easier to access, and the alternator was the top connection). Once the alternator wire was removed the system no longer had conductivity to ground. Now I know somewhere along that wire ground contact is being made. The wire appeared good, no abrasions, visible, the wire is also in a wire sleeve by itself. The wire lug connections appeared to to be good, had no Idea why the the power post from alternator would be touching ground. Further inspection showed a burn mark on the hold down bolt. Thought maybe the post arched to ground. As I was rotating the wire to reattach to the post, I flipped it over and noticed a small split in the heat-shrink that actually made contact with the alternator housing, that was the culprit.  I put another sleeve of heat shrink over it followed by electrical tape. Reassembled and all is well. I want to thank you for the protection suggestion of the 175Amp fuse.  This would of been much worse if the fuse was not there. A $5 dollar fuse saved a very expensive project. I'm still in a bit of a stress breakdown as I continually think of the what may have happened if I did not follow you suggestions.

Getting closer.....

To all,
The following is in reference to electrical distribution of my 69 Mach One, which I adopted from VicFreg. Much time and effort was put into carefully installing my electrical system but as you can see a failure of materials could be catastrophic.
Wanted to drop you a note and thank you. As you may recall, I copied your electrical lay out with the battery / solenoid in the trunk, on/off switch, fuse protection and two distributions (one behind AC in passenger compartment and one in engine bay). Yesterday I was test driving the car and the entire electrical shut down. All dead. I got the car home and started to trouble shoot via a meter. Sure enough, the 175Amp fuse on the battery board blew. So I started to ohm out each wire on the distribution block to see which one was connected to ground (which caused the fuse to blow) because the main wire distribution wire actually ohm'd to ground. First wire I disconnected and tested was the alternator (as this block was much easier to access, and the alternator was the top connection). Once the alternator wire was removed the system no longer had conductivity to ground. Now I know somewhere along that wire ground contact is being made. The wire appeared good, no abrasions, visible, the wire is also in a wire sleeve by itself. The wire lug connections appeared to to be good, had no Idea why the the power post from alternator would be touching ground. Further inspection showed a burn mark on the hold down bolt. Thought maybe the post arched to ground. As I was rotating the wire to reattach to the post, I flipped it over and noticed a small split in the heat-shrink that actually made contact with the alternator housing, that was the culprit.  I put another sleeve of heat shrink over it followed by electrical tape. Reassembled and all is well. I want to thank you for the protection suggestion of the 175Amp fuse.  This would of been much worse if the fuse was not there. A $5 dollar fuse saved a very expensive project. I'm still in a bit of a stress breakdown as I continually think of the what may have happened if I did not follow you suggestions.

The MTF one piece is worth the buy, you can't go wrong.
 

Got my car delivered from paint. House of Kolors Candy Brandywine over base black. Stripes and lettering all painted along with blacked out bright work throughout. Now onto the interior.

Thanks for posting pics of the headliner, as I've wanted to see the texture of it.  I keep going back and forth on going that route. Big thing about the OEM headliner is putting it in before the glass. And, if for some reason there is an issue after the glass is put in, you're hosed. 
The car is gorgeous! 
John
 

Mustang to Fear headliner installed, perfect fit.

Got my car delivered from paint. House of Kolors Candy Brandywine over base black. Stripes and lettering all painted along with blacked out bright work throughout. Now onto the interior.

Not really helpful

I had the same issue . Move the striker out Not in . I know this sound crazy but it’s like Aslanefe said above it’s a double acting latch and your probably only got the first bit started. 

Fyi on CVF, I bought and installed a CVF front runner for mock up. A year later, still in the build process I decided to add AC as it's now or never. I contacted CVF about adding the compressor  and bracket that matched what I had, and eventually decided to swap out the installed, mocked up system for the top of the line Wrapter. CVF credited my system for the upgrade and took it back, verified it was as I described and shipped me the new one. Don't know of any company that would do that,take back an installed product and give full credit for it,  they are awesome to work with.

Fyi on CVF, I bought and installed a CVF front runner for mock up. A year later, still in the build process I decided to add AC as it's now or never. I contacted CVF about adding the compressor  and bracket that matched what I had, and eventually decided to swap out the installed, mocked up system for the top of the line Wrapter. CVF credited my system for the upgrade and took it back, verified it was as I described and shipped me the new one. Don't know of any company that would do that,take back an installed product and give full credit for it,  they are awesome to work with.

Fyi on CVF, I bought and installed a CVF front runner for mock up. A year later, still in the build process I decided to add AC as it's now or never. I contacted CVF about adding the compressor  and bracket that matched what I had, and eventually decided to swap out the installed, mocked up system for the top of the line Wrapter. CVF credited my system for the upgrade and took it back, verified it was as I described and shipped me the new one. Don't know of any company that would do that,take back an installed product and give full credit for it,  they are awesome to work with.

Just a sneak peek of the black anodized billet gas cap we developed for the 65-66, I got the first one :)

Digging the third brake light in the spoiler.