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Everything posted by 69Stanger408

  1. Thanks Vic, I am going to customize the routes for the AC/Heater lines, going with a bulkhead set up, not using the original locations (maybe through the fender well area) will be the weekend project. Picked up the Master Cool die crimper to make the AC lines. Need to get the evaporator mounted so I know how much room I have for lines and electric. I smoothed over the firewall so finding the location to mount same is challenging....or at least a pain in the back...literally.
  2. No, still in build process, pretty confident on the Wilwood system (4 piston Wilwood calipers w/14" drill and slotted rotors). More pics of brake system on project forum - 69 Mach 1 / 408W.
  3. No, the pushrod has plenty of adjustment, a few twist back and forth and she was dialed in. More of the pain came from bench bleeding, difficult to bench bleed and install w/fluid in as you can see from the paint removal at the frame rail. Thought I had enough plastic and towels but the dang fluid ran down and starting eating the paint. Make sure you wash all the area after connections are made.
  4. I went with manual Wilwood w/proportioning valve as my motor will lack vacuum. Best price I found was Amazon. I made the backer plate out of aluminum. No issues, worked well.
  5. Lots of goodies the past few weeks. Built out my power distribution system in the trunk (Thanks Vic for inventing the wheel). Decided to go with a Vintage Air System, though plans did not call for same, so the front pulley system came off for a new front runner. Luckily, the team from CVF Racing agreed to the return of the mocked up system for an upgrade to the Wraptor single belt serpentine one.
  6. I went with JBA ceramic coated, they fit perfect...but I do not have shock towers.
  7. Question, how much clearance is there for the 9 pin transmission controller connector on the passenger side of the 4R70W? The trans sits too high in the tunnel to fit the connector. One option is to use a hole say and drill through the passenger floor for the clearance and mock op some kind of access panel...looking for guidance/suggestions.
  8. Vic, talk about the NB-100 controller for your fans. Why did you go this route versus the coolant sensor and relays.
  9. What is the title of the thread? Tried to find same, no luck
  10. CG in TX - Assume you gained more head room as well? I am 6'7" so any new head room would be great. Do you have pics to share of the process, floor plates?
  11. What do you mean cut out the seat platform...the seat riser? How did you reenforce the floor to support the seats?
  12. Welcome aboard, this site serves as a good motivator
  13. Thanks for the tip on the tray bolts. The lines have good separation, at least I hope so, the headers are ceramic coated so that should reduce SOME heat compared to conventional headers. Once it's all running I can add a heat shield if needed as they rest a-top the frame rails. For the power lug you used to feed the starter cable through the passenger floorpan, did you use this type?
  14. The 4R70W does not use a kickdown cable, it is operated electronically with the PSD controller and ECU within the Holley Sniper EFI.
  15. I went with the Optima Red Top from Jegs
  16. Oh, and yes, the drive shaft loop bolts to the Heidts X-Brace Stiffener
  17. Vicfreg, Went with an external B&M 14,400 BTU cooler. I ran the line from the trans to the internal radiator, then to the B&M, then back to the trans so I'm basically using two coolers. The pictures show the cooler and line runs. I used heat shrink where it passes through the radiator support. As far as the trans kick-down, unsure, have not got that far, any suggestions?
  18. Unfortunately the yellow is no more, I did a 1966 coupe with the same yellow and my friends were bustin my chops for doing the same color again, last fall I yanked the engine out and resprayed it Ford Graphite Gray. Below is my '66 in the Chrome Yellow with a 351W. Photo taken at Elkhart Lake Wis, Road America Racetrack.
  19. In the process of building a 1969 Mach 1. Projects been off and on for about 8 years. Modifications are as follows: Heidts four link rear suspension, TCI Mustang II suspension, Currie crate rear end w/4-11 gears, wilwood 4 piston discs all around, wilwood manual booster w/proportion valve, Tri-Star Engines 408W crate, Holley EFI, Holly dual sync distributor, Holley EFI fuel tank & pump, performance automatic 4R70W electronic transmission, CVF racing pulley system. 18" Foose Legends rims, Nitto tires. A note to add - I changed the color of the car after installing the engine the first time, went from Ford Chrome Yellow to Ford Graphite Gray (that is the reason for the two colors through out the pictures). Dropping past pictures to bring everyone up to speed.
  20. Assume you removed the spare tire support and tire locator bump out that was in this area?
  21. Just chiming in regarding the leaks...I have a ford rack from Heidts (Mustang II setup) that is being supplied via a Saginaw pump. When I purchased my pulley system , I was instructed to purchase a pressure valve that reduces line pressure from 1,200 to 800 PSI, an issue that exist with the Ford racks and GM pumps, the ford racks are not happy with the higher pressure, thus reducing the life of the components and causing leaks.
  22. Vicfreg, I reviewed your thread, thanks for the additional motivation, your attention to detail is outstanding!
  23. Brand new restomod with no wiring. Starting to wire up car with a new Painless Harness. Besides normal electrical needs (dash, lights, radio, etc) here are my requirements which are out of the norm: Power Master High Torque Starter w/built in solenoid (would like to use internal solenoid vise external), 1 wire 100 amp alternator (would like to use internal regulator vise external), Trunk mounted battery. Best layout / Any suggestions?
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