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69Stanger408

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Everything posted by 69Stanger408

  1. The compressor, when activated decreases RPM by ~200.
  2. Update - guess I needed to connect both ribbon cables to the small gauge modules not just one!!! All works.
  3. Checked with Vintage Air (VA) and they recommend the following for the Gen IV system: For the idle / RPM increase when AC is activated, tap the existing blue wire on Pin 85 of the VA relay with the orange wire (ground input #1 -) from Holley Sniper. This will signal the ECU that the AC clutch is activated and increase RPM to assist with compressor load. For compressor shutdown at wide open throttle (WOT), you require a new 5 pin relay, wire as follows - Pin 86 Holley gray wire (output #6 -), pin 30 battery, pin 85 keyed 12v, and pin 87 is a tap from Vintage Air orange wire off the ECU that goes to an existing VA WOT switch. Little different than Holleys explanation and reduces the installation of two replays to one.
  4. Making some final electrical connections and stuck at the WOT relay switch. This newly installed relay will shut down the compressor at wide open throttle via a ground trigger from the Holley ECU. I believe the activation wire would be the light blue that goes to the trinary switch and then onto the compressor, however I am unsure. The Holley techs call it the "AC Activation Wire" Additional pin out for this relay is pin 86 battery power, pin 87A from pin 86 of existing vintage air relay #86 (which is breaker power), and pin 30 which is the AC Activation wire... Assistance appreciated.
  5. Pressing through, went through the instructions for activation however I don't get the BIM option to display when using the SW1 button. I get into set up mode, select TACH, select engine, and next set of pushes are supposed to show BUS...but no option for BUS?
  6. Nick, I've yet to fire up the Holley, but when I did power up the Dakota (w/o Holley), I did not have lights for fuel or water temp, assume that is because the BIM will power that up? Also, did you tap the power and ground off the VHX module for the BIM?
  7. Retrotech looks awesome, but only for 65/66....https://www.phoenix-tuning.com/rtx-65f-mus-x/?sku=MTX-65F-MUS-X&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8MDUr6Oz5AIViP_jBx0eagBHEAQYAiABEgKx_vD_BwE
  8. The module fits nicely between the fuse box and steering column. I used a couple round spacers to allow it to sit level.
  9. I went with MTF as they sit lower than anything on the market. I'm 6'7" so I need all the head room I can get. Hydro-graphic your wood-grain interior pieces, mines in the process of being done. What color is your car, looks like Kandy Brandy Wine?
  10. Thanks, that's what I needed, kinda flimsy but I guess I had it right. Thanks Again!!
  11. May I get a picture of the driver and passenger under dash courtesy lights installed? Trying to figure out how these go back in.
  12. Don't see an issue as long as you have clearance. I prefer to have it in a location. I can access fairly easy. Behind the horse shoe would be a major PITA should the module fail. Just a thought, but hey, what's not in a PITA when doing this stuff?
  13. I don't use a booster as the vacuum is not sufficient to manage same. Made a plate out of aluminum to cover the mounting holes
  14. Nickjames, not because of the vintage air evaporator, it was the Digital Dakota gauge module that was attached to the front of the evaporator. Mounting it there allows easy access but prevents the actual glove box liner to be attached.
  15. Vic - I used two of the the vintage air bulk heads ( http://www.vintageair.com/hose-kits-fittings/?subcat1=Bulkhead Plates&subcat2=2-Way ), one for the firewall/wheel well and the other for the wheel well/engine compartment. I purchased the hose crimper from Amazon ( https://www.amazon.com/Mastercool-71550-Black-Manual-Crimper/dp/B000WBQ4U2/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=mastercool+crimp&qid=1566866011&s=automotive&sr=1-1 ). Left the heat in the firewall as the lines run across the intake anyway.
  16. Pics of modified vintage air setup, went through wheel well, GM peanut compressor on pass side.
  17. Copy that, weigh the pros and cons, center console wins!!
  18. Vic, did you check the glove box fitment with the VHX module? Was going to mimick your set up but won't work with glove box, no clearance.
  19. Working that now, failed to see you had the BIM. I am working with a new Painless Harness, Holley Sniper w/Dual sync distributor, Digital Dakota VHX, and Performance Automatic controller for 4R70W. Plus battery relocate to trunk along with solenoid (similar to Vic's conv), and Vintage Air. Lots of WIRES!!!! This is last part then back to the the body shop panel/door installs, glass, and exhaust.
  20. Vic, for the Vintage Air, which wire did you use from the harness for the 12V ignition source? Assume one of the AC wires would work from the harness as I have plenty available (new painless harness).
  21. Use a flat head jewelers screwdriver, slip it in the opposite side (180) of the split opening of the connector. Looking down, you'll see the spit I'm referring to. Once it is slide in (between the plastic side wall and connector pin), angle it out so the tip will push the retaining tab in. All that is holding the pin is a small tab that is bent out to prevent the pin from being pulled. Once you successful do this you'll need to pry the tab back out prior to reinserting it.
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