Jump to content

69Stanger408

Members
  • Content Count

    221
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    8

Everything posted by 69Stanger408

  1. Added the E-Stopp electric parking brake today. I like the easy install and extra room in the foot well without the parking brake pedal.
  2. High quality, 100% copper, with top shelf ends and heat shrink. No corners cut in this car, that's thing about it. No matter how much time, patience, and quality work you put into it, things can go arise which are out of your control. The fact that the fuse did what it was supposed to is take away. Adding an additional one on the alt feed to the power distro to isolate the even further. The more the merrier
  3. Agree on the starter fuse, may add one as the situation can be be duplicated there as well. The starter line is a direct connect from trunk mounted solenoid to starter, installing a fuse may be a wise choice. Everything on the distro blocks is fuse protected, believe that is why nothing major happened, other than replace the head distribution fuse and re-do a heat shrink tube. I did not put an in-line fuse on charging line other than the mega fuse, of course it all runs through the distribution system so it is protected. No other fuses blew, and when I replaced the fuse and heat shrink everything was back to normal. If I'm missing something (anyone) please advise. This has me questioning myself. Two things that always worry me about restorations is fuel and electric. Everything I did is brand new from the wiring to the fuel.
  4. To all, The following is in reference to electrical distribution of my 69 Mach One, which I adopted from VicFreg. Much time and effort was put into carefully installing my electrical system but as you can see a failure of materials could be catastrophic. Wanted to drop you a note and thank you. As you may recall, I copied your electrical lay out with the battery / solenoid in the trunk, on/off switch, fuse protection and two distributions (one behind AC in passenger compartment and one in engine bay). Yesterday I was test driving the car and the entire electrical shut down. All dead. I got the car home and started to trouble shoot via a meter. Sure enough, the 175Amp fuse on the battery board blew. So I started to ohm out each wire on the distribution block to see which one was connected to ground (which caused the fuse to blow) because the main wire distribution wire actually ohm'd to ground. First wire I disconnected and tested was the alternator (as this block was much easier to access, and the alternator was the top connection). Once the alternator wire was removed the system no longer had conductivity to ground. Now I know somewhere along that wire ground contact is being made. The wire appeared good, no abrasions, visible, the wire is also in a wire sleeve by itself. The wire lug connections appeared to to be good, had no Idea why the the power post from alternator would be touching ground. Further inspection showed a burn mark on the hold down bolt. Thought maybe the post arched to ground. As I was rotating the wire to reattach to the post, I flipped it over and noticed a small split in the heat-shrink that actually made contact with the alternator housing, that was the culprit. I put another sleeve of heat shrink over it followed by electrical tape. Reassembled and all is well. I want to thank you for the protection suggestion of the 175Amp fuse. This would of been much worse if the fuse was not there. A $5 dollar fuse saved a very expensive project. I'm still in a bit of a stress breakdown as I continually think of the what may have happened if I did not follow you suggestions.
  5. The MTF one piece is worth the buy, you can't go wrong.
  6. https://photos.app.goo.gl/TBAzdyBy9uCC37Vy5
  7. give me a little time, will reload....
  8. Sail panels and A pillar yes, visors an option
  9. Mustang to Fear headliner installed, perfect fit.
  10. Seen lots of questions regarding the brake line to header proximity, but what about muffler proximity? Of course the brake line clamp is under the muffler!! Evidently the shop that installed the exhaust saw no issue. Thoughts??
  11. These are awesome, really cleans up the void space.
  12. Fyi on CVF, I bought and installed a CVF front runner for mock up. A year later, still in the build process I decided to add AC as it's now or never. I contacted CVF about adding the compressor and bracket that matched what I had, and eventually decided to swap out the installed, mocked up system for the top of the line Wrapter. CVF credited my system for the upgrade and took it back, verified it was as I described and shipped me the new one. Don't know of any company that would do that,take back an installed product and give full credit for it, they are awesome to work with.
  13. You can use something like this. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900368?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIn6mmw9ed6AIVzsDACh0i4AlpEAQYDiABEgKBcfD_BwE
  14. Digging the third brake light in the spoiler.
  15. Little more of a cost, but you cannot go wrong with a Holley Sniper EFI unit. EFI brings the benefits of current technology into the classic car era without altering the look of the engine, looks just like a carb.
  16. I went with LED tail lights and love them. Had to swap out the stock flasher for an LED type ($12). I purchased them through CJ Pony Parts (https://www.cjponyparts.com/led-taillight-assembly-1969/p/TLLED14/) but would not recommend using them as their customer service sucks, don't have time to wait 40+ minutes to talk to someone, however had no problems with this item.
  17. I have the Wilwood MC, works great. I made a mounting plate out of aluminum to cover the booster holes and make for a clean look.
  18. Take it out, clean it and lube up the moving parts with wheel bearing grease. Also check the tension on the lock and door rods. I ran into the same issue, once I greased them up and made sure the tension was minimal at rest with the pull rods, they work like a champ.
  19. I used a new relay, and no there is no diode in either one
  20. I got JBAs with a 4R70W trans, Mustang II front suspension with power steering
  21. Corrected connection. It works, no more trunk key required.
  22. Finally got it to work in the following config: 86- 12v 87 - 12v 85 - Amber trigger wire from controller 30 - 12v Output to trunk actuator Thanks to all for the support.
×
×
  • Create New...