69Stanger408

Tinman, didn't know this was you. I followed you home a few months ago, I was checking out the rear flip windows on your original for fitment in comparison with mine. Small world.

Traded my in at harbor freight, replacement 6 ton cost me $0.02 more. Replaced two sets, out for a nickel

Is this just supposed to sit freely on the rear end with no attaching point?

I used Dynocorn panels, best out there (closest to original). Doors, valance (front and rear), and quarters

I do have the original, guess it's swap time to see

Google pics, free

IF staying stock I'd do the local auto parts stores, they will work per manufacture specs and have a warranty. I went with Wilwood, however I have a full 4 disc Wilwood setup so it made sense for me.

Getting to the final finish and have a question on the dash pad alignments. I have an original tooling dash from Dashes Direct, all else is original. I removed the lower dash and everything else for paint. Trying to install and have misalignment issues as you can see from the pictures. The three screws are installed in the pad at the windshield side, however having trouble trying to screw in the lower screws. I removed the adjusting bolts on the lower portion of the lower dash (left and right door areas). Is there more that needs to be loosened? I know their are some adjustments behind the instrument cluster (the u-shapped horse collar) which supports the steering wheel, does this play a part? Any insight would be appreciated. Pictures are of radio area, instrument cluster, and clock panel.

Have not tested it with the car weight, however it does retract the cables and brake shoes. Still have the car in the air for a couple more mods, then will test with car on incline.

My pedal is touchy, just ordered the extension bracket you suggested.

I have the Total Cost Involved (TCI) Mustang II coil over set up with power rack and pinion. Also have the CVF Racing Wraptor front runner system with their GM type II peanut power steering pump that flows 2.4 gallons per minute (GPM) with a remote reservoir. TCI said there is no need to reduce pressure, said as long as system is less than 3 GPM the mustang rack will do just fine. The pressure & return line is 5/16" power steering line with AN fittings. From the remote reservoir to the pump return is 10 AN. The inlet and outlet in the remote reservoir is 5/8 NPT. front tires are 10.5 inches wide. I can't seem to get this to work for more than 20 feet. Bled the system with wheels off ground, lock to lock till no air bubbles. Lower the car, start it, turn lock to lock, verify no air, all is well. Drive to end of driveway, try turning wheel and it's extremely difficult. On the road appear to be fine until I come to a stop, Same issue, won't turn when still. Bring it home, raise wheels, re-bleed, but no air bubbles present. Lower car, turn lock to lock, no issues, all is fine. Get to end of driveway, same issue re-appears. No leaks anywhere. CVF Racing just sent a new pump, swapped it out, same issue. TCI is sending a new rack this week. I'm at a loss, can't believe it would be the rack but everyone is standing by their product which is nice. Any suggestions?

Nice informational post.

Added the E-Stopp electric parking brake today. I like the easy install and extra room in the foot well without the parking brake pedal.

High quality, 100% copper, with top shelf ends and heat shrink. No corners cut in this car, that's thing about it. No matter how much time, patience, and quality work you put into it, things can go arise which are out of your control. The fact that the fuse did what it was supposed to is take away. Adding an additional one on the alt feed to the power distro to isolate the even further. The more the merrier

Agree on the starter fuse, may add one as the situation can be be duplicated there as well. The starter line is a direct connect from trunk mounted solenoid to starter, installing a fuse may be a wise choice. Everything on the distro blocks is fuse protected, believe that is why nothing major happened, other than replace the head distribution fuse and re-do a heat shrink tube. I did not put an in-line fuse on charging line other than the mega fuse, of course it all runs through the distribution system so it is protected. No other fuses blew, and when I replaced the fuse and heat shrink everything was back to normal. If I'm missing something (anyone) please advise. This has me questioning myself. Two things that always worry me about restorations is fuel and electric. Everything I did is brand new from the wiring to the fuel.

To all, The following is in reference to electrical distribution of my 69 Mach One, which I adopted from VicFreg. Much time and effort was put into carefully installing my electrical system but as you can see a failure of materials could be catastrophic. Wanted to drop you a note and thank you. As you may recall, I copied your electrical lay out with the battery / solenoid in the trunk, on/off switch, fuse protection and two distributions (one behind AC in passenger compartment and one in engine bay). Yesterday I was test driving the car and the entire electrical shut down. All dead. I got the car home and started to trouble shoot via a meter. Sure enough, the 175Amp fuse on the battery board blew. So I started to ohm out each wire on the distribution block to see which one was connected to ground (which caused the fuse to blow) because the main wire distribution wire actually ohm'd to ground. First wire I disconnected and tested was the alternator (as this block was much easier to access, and the alternator was the top connection). Once the alternator wire was removed the system no longer had conductivity to ground. Now I know somewhere along that wire ground contact is being made. The wire appeared good, no abrasions, visible, the wire is also in a wire sleeve by itself. The wire lug connections appeared to to be good, had no Idea why the the power post from alternator would be touching ground. Further inspection showed a burn mark on the hold down bolt. Thought maybe the post arched to ground. As I was rotating the wire to reattach to the post, I flipped it over and noticed a small split in the heat-shrink that actually made contact with the alternator housing, that was the culprit. I put another sleeve of heat shrink over it followed by electrical tape. Reassembled and all is well. I want to thank you for the protection suggestion of the 175Amp fuse. This would of been much worse if the fuse was not there. A $5 dollar fuse saved a very expensive project. I'm still in a bit of a stress breakdown as I continually think of the what may have happened if I did not follow you suggestions.

The MTF one piece is worth the buy, you can't go wrong.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/TBAzdyBy9uCC37Vy5

give me a little time, will reload....

Sail panels and A pillar yes, visors an option

Mustang to Fear headliner installed, perfect fit.

Not really helpful

Seen lots of questions regarding the brake line to header proximity, but what about muffler proximity? Of course the brake line clamp is under the muffler!! Evidently the shop that installed the exhaust saw no issue. Thoughts??

These are awesome, really cleans up the void space.

Fyi on CVF, I bought and installed a CVF front runner for mock up. A year later, still in the build process I decided to add AC as it's now or never. I contacted CVF about adding the compressor and bracket that matched what I had, and eventually decided to swap out the installed, mocked up system for the top of the line Wrapter. CVF credited my system for the upgrade and took it back, verified it was as I described and shipped me the new one. Don't know of any company that would do that,take back an installed product and give full credit for it, they are awesome to work with.