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69Stanger408

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Posts posted by 69Stanger408


  1. Attached is a template I made, worked great and can be adjusted based on the bend of the base. Use poster-board stock to make template and adjust as needed, then transfer to sheet metal and trim with metal snips. I used my bench vise to make the bends and a body hammer to sharpen the angles.PDF template is below pics.

     

    Braket 3.jpg

    Braket 2.jpg

    1969 Mustang Trap Door Bracket Template.pdf


  2. Made my own console, just got back from upholstery shop. Started with cardboard, then 1/8" handy panel, followed by final product made out of birch plywood. Looking forward to installing it. The angled piece at the front is for the vintage air controls which ties it nicely to the under dash.

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  3. 1 hour ago, mustangstofear said:

    When I set the windshield in urethane lime in the video,  I  snap the chrome immediately,  that way I know I have distance between the windshield and the mouldings.  At that point I  slip a couple of rubber spacer at the top to make sure the windshield doesn't settle down. 

    now you tell me the trick :(


  4. Recommendations to affix the MUSTANG letters to the rear deck lid. The "A" was loose and came off when detailing. I purchased the female receiver barrels that go in the hole but the pins on the "A" appear to be too thick to insert (the letters are original). Don't want to force anymore as I don't want to damage anything. Thoughts?


  5. Getting to the final finish and have a question on the dash pad alignments. I have an original tooling dash from Dashes Direct, all else is original. I removed the lower dash and everything else for paint. Trying to install and have misalignment issues as you can see from the pictures. The three screws are installed in the pad at the windshield side, however having trouble trying to screw in the lower screws. I removed the adjusting bolts on the lower portion of the lower dash (left and right door areas). Is there more that needs to be loosened? I know their are some adjustments behind the instrument cluster (the u-shapped horse collar) which supports the steering wheel, does this play a part? Any insight would be appreciated. Pictures are of radio area, instrument cluster, and clock panel.

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  6. I have the Total Cost Involved (TCI) Mustang II coil over set up with power rack and pinion. Also have the CVF Racing Wraptor front runner system with their GM type II peanut power steering pump that flows 2.4 gallons per minute (GPM) with a remote reservoir. TCI said there is no need to reduce pressure, said as long as system is less than 3 GPM the mustang rack will do just fine. The  pressure & return line is 5/16" power steering line with AN fittings. From the remote reservoir to the pump return is 10 AN. The inlet and outlet in the remote reservoir is 5/8 NPT. front tires are 10.5 inches wide. I can't seem to get this to work for more than 20 feet. Bled the system with wheels off ground, lock to lock till no air bubbles. Lower the car, start it, turn lock to lock, verify no air, all is well. Drive to end of driveway, try turning wheel and it's extremely difficult. On the road appear to be fine until I come to a stop, Same issue, won't turn when still. Bring it home, raise wheels, re-bleed, but no air bubbles present. Lower car, turn lock to lock, no issues, all is fine. Get to end of driveway, same issue re-appears. No leaks anywhere. CVF Racing just sent a new pump, swapped it out, same issue. TCI is sending a new rack this week. I'm at a loss, can't believe it would be the rack but everyone is standing by their product which is nice. Any suggestions?

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