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69Stanger408

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Everything posted by 69Stanger408

  1. The angle is set, the height of length is based on your setup and can be adjusted with the template before transcribing to the sheet metal. The original would of been too short to affix the aftermarket panels I have so I lengthened them. Place the left and right panels in place and align the template to the underside of the panels.
  2. Attached is a template I made, worked great and can be adjusted based on the bend of the base. Use poster-board stock to make template and adjust as needed, then transfer to sheet metal and trim with metal snips. I used my bench vise to make the bends and a body hammer to sharpen the angles.PDF template is below pics. 1969 Mustang Trap Door Bracket Template.pdf
  3. I found them on a different site they wanted $88. plus shipping, hence the reason for making my own.
  4. I just made a few templates out of poster board, once I got the correct angle I traced it to sheet metal, cut it, bent it, and finished it with paint to prevent surface rust. I made them specific for the Mustangs to Fear trap door panel so it would be a tight fit to eliminate the subwoofer bounce.
  5. Have not charged the system yet, heat and blowers work as expected during test, then removed fuse until charging takes place, hopefully in the next week or so
  6. I have Heidts 4 link coilovers in the rear and TCI Mustang II in the front with coilovers, no issues
  7. 3M channel bonding and sidelite adhesive, Amazon carries it. use a piece of 2x4, place against trim and hit with hammer, usually pops off with one hit.
  8. Made my own console, just got back from upholstery shop. Started with cardboard, then 1/8" handy panel, followed by final product made out of birch plywood. Looking forward to installing it. The angled piece at the front is for the vintage air controls which ties it nicely to the under dash.
  9. I went with a pair of Maradyne M122K Champion Series, rated at 1,565 CFM each and 18 amps draw per. I made a custom shroud and reverse fitted them as space with the sepentine setup was tight, tad under 4". I now have 3,130 total CFM.
  10. I have EFI and installed a switch for the fuel pump. It actually comes in handy when working on the car as well. I can power up the ECU without constantly charging the fuel system. Simple setup with minimal wiring.
  11. She deserved to come out of the garage and take in the sun
  12. Recommendations to affix the MUSTANG letters to the rear deck lid. The "A" was loose and came off when detailing. I purchased the female receiver barrels that go in the hole but the pins on the "A" appear to be too thick to insert (the letters are original). Don't want to force anymore as I don't want to damage anything. Thoughts?
  13. Tinman, didn't know this was you. I followed you home a few months ago, I was checking out the rear flip windows on your original for fitment in comparison with mine. Small world.
  14. Traded my in at harbor freight, replacement 6 ton cost me $0.02 more. Replaced two sets, out for a nickel
  15. Is this just supposed to sit freely on the rear end with no attaching point?
  16. I used Dynocorn panels, best out there (closest to original). Doors, valance (front and rear), and quarters
  17. I do have the original, guess it's swap time to see
  18. IF staying stock I'd do the local auto parts stores, they will work per manufacture specs and have a warranty. I went with Wilwood, however I have a full 4 disc Wilwood setup so it made sense for me.
  19. Getting to the final finish and have a question on the dash pad alignments. I have an original tooling dash from Dashes Direct, all else is original. I removed the lower dash and everything else for paint. Trying to install and have misalignment issues as you can see from the pictures. The three screws are installed in the pad at the windshield side, however having trouble trying to screw in the lower screws. I removed the adjusting bolts on the lower portion of the lower dash (left and right door areas). Is there more that needs to be loosened? I know their are some adjustments behind the instrument cluster (the u-shapped horse collar) which supports the steering wheel, does this play a part? Any insight would be appreciated. Pictures are of radio area, instrument cluster, and clock panel.
  20. Have not tested it with the car weight, however it does retract the cables and brake shoes. Still have the car in the air for a couple more mods, then will test with car on incline.
  21. I have the Total Cost Involved (TCI) Mustang II coil over set up with power rack and pinion. Also have the CVF Racing Wraptor front runner system with their GM type II peanut power steering pump that flows 2.4 gallons per minute (GPM) with a remote reservoir. TCI said there is no need to reduce pressure, said as long as system is less than 3 GPM the mustang rack will do just fine. The pressure & return line is 5/16" power steering line with AN fittings. From the remote reservoir to the pump return is 10 AN. The inlet and outlet in the remote reservoir is 5/8 NPT. front tires are 10.5 inches wide. I can't seem to get this to work for more than 20 feet. Bled the system with wheels off ground, lock to lock till no air bubbles. Lower the car, start it, turn lock to lock, verify no air, all is well. Drive to end of driveway, try turning wheel and it's extremely difficult. On the road appear to be fine until I come to a stop, Same issue, won't turn when still. Bring it home, raise wheels, re-bleed, but no air bubbles present. Lower car, turn lock to lock, no issues, all is fine. Get to end of driveway, same issue re-appears. No leaks anywhere. CVF Racing just sent a new pump, swapped it out, same issue. TCI is sending a new rack this week. I'm at a loss, can't believe it would be the rack but everyone is standing by their product which is nice. Any suggestions?
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