69Stanger408

I installed Heidts 4-link w/adjustable coilovers along with a Currie 9' crate rear end. I am running 18x9 rear rims with Nitto 265/35/18. They are ~12" wide, 14" would be huge!!

I applied Raptor truck bed liner

I moved my risers back 5" and used Mustangs to Fear seats. They sit lower than anything on the market and are comfortable. I am 6'7" and have head room. Also, though not for you specifically, the MtF headliner provides 2" of headroom.

Which storage hatch? Behind the drivers seat? All plywood, brackets & hinges to flip up half or it. Battery cover is plastic wrapped in leather. Trunk enclosure is plastic wrapped in leather, plywood base.

Start with cardboard, transfer to wood. My dimensions are much different than stock as I moved the seats risers back 6". Pics of process below.

Last part of build complete with the trunk enclosure.

UPDATE: Swapped out the bolts with different ones, all good, of course I had to take off the door panels because the rods moved once the bolt tension was removed, sadness.

Notice no washer on the other pic...appears that may be the issue.

Appears to be no difference, pics attached. front and rear bolts along with damage to sill plate and door alignment. Appears the leading edge of sill is too thick? Options?

Trying to put my scuff plates on and running into interference with the door glass bolts that have the heads under the door. Scuff plates appear to be typical in height / thickness but the bolts contact them when attempting to close, actually won't clear the head of the handle side of door. thoughts? And, the doors are perfectly aligned. Without the scuff plates door operation is perfect.

Side wings installed left and right of stereo, little trimming required.

Interior just about complete

The angle is set, the height of length is based on your setup and can be adjusted with the template before transcribing to the sheet metal. The original would of been too short to affix the aftermarket panels I have so I lengthened them. Place the left and right panels in place and align the template to the underside of the panels.

Attached is a template I made, worked great and can be adjusted based on the bend of the base. Use poster-board stock to make template and adjust as needed, then transfer to sheet metal and trim with metal snips. I used my bench vise to make the bends and a body hammer to sharpen the angles.PDF template is below pics. 1969 Mustang Trap Door Bracket Template.pdf

I found them on a different site they wanted $88. plus shipping, hence the reason for making my own.

I just made a few templates out of poster board, once I got the correct angle I traced it to sheet metal, cut it, bent it, and finished it with paint to prevent surface rust. I made them specific for the Mustangs to Fear trap door panel so it would be a tight fit to eliminate the subwoofer bounce.

Have not charged the system yet, heat and blowers work as expected during test, then removed fuse until charging takes place, hopefully in the next week or so

I have Heidts 4 link coilovers in the rear and TCI Mustang II in the front with coilovers, no issues

3M channel bonding and sidelite adhesive, Amazon carries it. use a piece of 2x4, place against trim and hit with hammer, usually pops off with one hit.

Made my own console, just got back from upholstery shop. Started with cardboard, then 1/8" handy panel, followed by final product made out of birch plywood. Looking forward to installing it. The angled piece at the front is for the vintage air controls which ties it nicely to the under dash.

I went with a pair of Maradyne M122K Champion Series, rated at 1,565 CFM each and 18 amps draw per. I made a custom shroud and reverse fitted them as space with the sepentine setup was tight, tad under 4". I now have 3,130 total CFM.

now you tell me the trick :(

I have EFI and installed a switch for the fuel pump. It actually comes in handy when working on the car as well. I can power up the ECU without constantly charging the fuel system. Simple setup with minimal wiring.

She deserved to come out of the garage and take in the sun

Recommendations to affix the MUSTANG letters to the rear deck lid. The "A" was loose and came off when detailing. I purchased the female receiver barrels that go in the hole but the pins on the "A" appear to be too thick to insert (the letters are original). Don't want to force anymore as I don't want to damage anything. Thoughts?