Johns Summer of 69

I went a little on the cheap side.  I’d heard bad things about some of the aftermarket bezels, so I bought an original that had seen better days and made my own.  Ended up cutting out the sides and epoxying some 16 gauge on the outside.  Works well, fits, and cost me a lot less than the aftermarket stuff.

I did not use the original bracket. There is an inner DIN 1 shell that mounts in the stock location.  The new head unit inserts into that.  Then just support it from the back and you are ready to rock.

Also this weekend I started working on finishing up the stereo. I worked on the kick panel speakers and wiring. I would have worked on the package tray and rear speakers, but one of the speakers is defective and has to be replaced. I'm hoping to get some answers to questions I have on some installation challenges and get the radio in this coming weekend. FYI this design makes for a VERY tight fit with the parking brake. 
 
 

John, that is a nice spot to put the front speakers. Looking good. 

looks like they might have them
https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/p/15794-Moulding-/-Trim-Vertical-Door-Glass-To-Quarter-Glass-Driver-Side-Grade-A-Used-1970-Mercury-Cougar-/-1970-Ford-Mustang.html?attribs=79
https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/70qglasstrimps.html?attribs=79

Dynacorn  makes the  best conversion  kit.

Check out West Coast Classic Cougar Site:- Window Guide, I did & bought 16 thru them of original used ones (8 per window) as they seem to hold the bracket tighter to guide rails than the repo ones.The reviews on their site on the repo ones say that to cut out the play that they used thin plastic under the plastic guides to get them closer to the thickness of the originals.

if it wont come off with wd40 and you did not glue it in, you have a problem with the molding which is probably why you could not get the weatherstrip in it all the way in the first place. you can slice it long ways with a razor then pull out the side that has the lip on it then use a screwdriver to pry it out of the other side.
 

First work the channel from the bottom up to remove it do not pull it out this could stretch it or break.
Next clean the channel with steel wool and wipe it down with dish soap to install stripping.
The mirror cables go behind the channel around to the door hole, There is a large lock tab washer on the back of the door panel and screw on finish nut on the int side.

The cable had a plastic clamp down around the inside bottom of the door that kept it out of the glass ,a good zip tie would probably do the trick ,you should be able to see the tab with a hole in it the plastic bracket bolted to

This weekend I got started on the interior. Vacuumed, scrubbed, POR15, sound deadener strips, and insulation.  I also installed the metal divider (seat divider). Not sure what progress I make during the week, but the weekend is blocked out.

do you not want to build an old school engine?
a 351 windsor with minor upgrades and some decent rear gears will run plenty strong and it will be blazing fast with a supercharger and around 9 lbs of boost
a lightening engine with a computer program upgrade will be very fast but might be very hard to find near you.
here's a few
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=used+ford+lightening+engine&_sacat=0

She's home!!  But of course, as a teacher, school starts tomorrow and I won't have time to do anything for awhile!!  Argh!
So my first order of business is to recharge the battery.  It came back quite dead, but I have a trickle charger on it now, and it's charging up!  I want to start with putting the gauge cluster back in, so I figure I need a battery so I can test that!

Some more white paint going on.

Insulators go first on the metal, then the circuit card, then the nuts.  Be careful to ensure that the posts do not touch the metal case; this is hard to detect unless you're using a multimeter. 
As for no lamps, bad ground (I can't see the bolt underneath the flap in this picture), bad contacts, bad wiring, bad fuse, old age and age-related macular degeneration; paper bag over your head. 

My plan is starting to come together

finally I have some progress to talk about! Scheduled for this week: headlight buckets, qtr panel extensions, doors and trunk, then onto cowl, hood, taillights section and racing mirrors.

Finely completed only if..
You never drive it.
Never look at it .
Never look at another mustang.
Never get a parts catalog in the mail.
Never go on the internet.
Never wake up in the middle of the night.
Never find yourself with a pile of money with nothing to really do with it.
If you can live by these rules you are safe...….
 

I totally understand, had to constantly be on the guys when I had my car in a shop and I was paying them to do the work. Hope you have better luck than I did. Progress is progress though!

For the 1969 Mustang, if I understand the OP wants a softer ride.  First thing would be replace the 18" wheels with 15" wheels and a 60 or 65 series tires.  As far as feeling unstable "(squirrelly)" at highway speeds, it could be as simple as not enough positive caster in the front wheel alignment.  Beyond that, if the suspension and steering components are in good condition, I'd look closely at the power steering control valve and/or the steering box.

These are a great improvement. Have them on mine.

I see progress, even when it is 2 steps forward and 1 back. Believe me, I know this process very well.

View my build photo album by clicking on the image

First of all its your car - do whatever you want to it. If you want to make your engine bay with everything chrome, go ahead and do it.
I think the problem with THIS engine bay is that it that what is chrome on all the top surfaces takes away from what most people are looking for when they open the hood - the engine.
In my opinion if you want to show off your engine bay – make the engine the star of the show and everything else complement it.

Fair enough, just keep on to him to get it done in a reasonable time, you don't want this to go on for months or years.

Ya no... At this point I am trying to patiently wait knowing that it''ll look great and done professionally and I'm getting a lot more than I am paying for it. 
I don't want to rush it, plus I'm gathering all I need to get for the interior. Then there's what I have planned for the lighting. Its coming in slowly after each paycheck. I have to cash flow the rest of the items and work needed.