Cupid

I know this is an older post, but I've recently had issues with my V-Belts popping off when I perform my rendition of Ken Block's Gymkhana. I have the Vintage air Sanden 508 compressor mounted as well. The question is, has anybody found a solution for the 351C with A/C. Serpentine would be great!

*subscribed* I totally wish this was out about 7 years ago when I built mine. $680 is pricey!

Dibs on the younger sister! LOL j/k Congrats on the anniversary!

No kidding! I can barely change the rear driver side plug with my Cleveland!

^Sexy

I think this about sums it up for me. A good buddy of mine warned me: "Hey man, we'll never get back the money we put in these old cars... We don't do this to get back the money..."

If you want to donate that 69 FB to a good home, i'll take her and give her all the attention she needs!

The good: Thanks to your suggestions, I went with a larger capacity radiator and boy, between the block off plate and this new radiator, my Cleveland is super happy. The bad: I wasn't able to come up with an alternative plan to mount both, the BeCool fan on/off switch and my Autometer digital gauge TSU into the block. I ended up mounting the TSU inside the radiator hose knowing full well that up until the thermostat opens at 160, I wouldn't get an accurate reading. My reasoning was i'm more concerned that my fan cuts on at 195* than I am with an immediate temperature reading below 160*. Plus, my engine will always run above 160*...that's just a fact. The lowest i've ever seen it get was upper 170s*.....therefore I will always have a correct reading when the car is up to temp. I've included some ratty cell phone pics showing the installation of the radiator in relation to the engine and the wiring. I did have to cut the tabs off of the radiator support to get the whole module to fit. I fabbed up brackets to hold it at the top. The radiator was, in fact a direct fit....if......you were not using the dual fans. It'd work if you were running a flex fan and stock shroud...probably. The module was just way to think for me to even remotely get it to work. On a 80* day, it would not go over 201* at a stop light with the A/C on. My fans actually cycled off and on. That's really cool!:thumbup1: My A/C compressor actually cycled off and on too, and let me tell you, it was cold! The bottom line is, i'm almost ready for cruising and the occasional autocross appearance! I'll post better pics and another report with the readings on a 100* day.

No, but I thought about using something like this: http://omicronclock.auctivacommerce.com/1969-1970-Cougar-or-Mustang-Rally-Clock-Movement-Repair-Kit-P122319.aspx

That's dead sexy! :w00t: How much to fab up me one shipped? :whistling:

Agreed. I think it's on the side. Check this out. (Lower Rear) http://www.musclemustangfastfords.com/tech/mmfp_0911_installing_a_400m_small_block_into_a_351_cleveland_stroker_engine/photo_09.html

Crisis solved: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-32082/ Apparently there is a water jacket on the driver's side near the rear of the block as well. I'll have to check this when I get home. I'd like to have all the wiring up front and away from exhaust pipes.

Right...no where to put the fan sending unit in the rad...shocking...I know. This might be the way to go.

Hey guys, I received my new radiator unit yesterday and let me tell you, it is the best looking aluminum welded piece of artwork I've ever seen in my life! But..... It comes with a temp sending unit that apparently is not like a standard one that sends a continuous signal to my digital gauge... I merely sends "on/off" signals to the fan relay. DANG!!!!!! The Cleveland only has the one temp sending unit location. Not good. I'm looking for something like (http://www.summitracing.com/search/Product-Line/Meziere-Water-Neck-Spacers/) this so I can use the gauge TSU as well as the Fan TSU. Any ideas would be welcome. Yes, this sucks....

Mike, if you do nothing else, please....for the well being of your motor ensure you measure the stock restrictor opening and compare it to the base of your thermostat. If your thermostat base doesn't cover the hole, or you have the wrong thermostat, your motor *will* run hot or overheat. I can guarantee it. I just got tired of the bull and blocked it off. My Cleveland and I are quite happy (as well as every other person I know that has done the mod). Actually, now that I have thought about it a little more, i'd run this before the Weiand. At least you can still recirculate fluid through the block. Can't do that with the Weiand.

Sorry, Guess I started rambling without an explanation! So, from all my research, Clevelands are known to run hot(not overheat, but overall have higher operating temperatures)...for several reasons.... One of those reasons is due to the thermostat not blocking the bypass passage completely when the engine is up to temp. (This was my problem. You can see this in the "HugeGap" pic above) WCCC made a restrictor plate to block off the bypass completely (well almost completely...with the exception of the pin-hole for burping). This does two things, 1) it allows you to use regular ford thermostats (clevelands have specific thermostats) and 2) it blocks off the bypass passage, consequently allowing your water pump to pump fluid throughout your entire cooling system rather that just recirculating it in the block. What does that mean? Glad you asked! Apparently the Cleveland has a bypass circuit that recirculates fluid to the front part of the motor. This allows the engine to get up to operating temperature much quicker. Once the motor is up to operating temperature the thermostat opens up, thus blocking the bypass and as a result flowing fluid throughout the entire cooling system. The WCCC restrictor plate blocks that passage indefinitely to flow fluid throughout the entire system 100% of the time. If I have any of this wrong, the smart guys on this board will clean up my explanation, but I think this is best way my mediocre mind can explain it. Hope that helped

Hey guys, I got my restrictor in the mail yesterday and was able to throw it in last night and got some success. Set-up: 20" Aluminum Champion Radiator 17" Mechanical Fan 16" Electric Pusher 160* HF Themo Flow Kooler Pump WCCC Restrictor Plate 50/50 Coolant Statistics: Ambient: 75* A/C on at traffic light: 207* A/C on at speed: 198* No A/C: 185-195 Initial readings after some nice runs and parked at the house... Gauge: 200* Sender: 197* Return Hose: 173 Inlet Hose: 163 By the time I took these readings, the gauge dropped to 193 within minutes...Probably would have continued to drop at idle. So overall, not bad, but not perfect! I'll take it until I get the higher capacity radiator. The WCCC restrictor definitely solved my overheating problems for now. Let's see how it works when it's 100* outside. (I'm nervous about that...) If I had to do it all over again, I would have just picked up a Weiand (sp?) HF water pump with the bypass delete instead of the flow kooler. That will eliminate the need for the WCCC piece. Since I had the Flow Kooler, spending $20 was the better option. Please check out the install pics. You all can see that the problem was my thermostat (Cleveland Specific NAPA 197) was almost useless with regard to blocking the flow through the standard Cleveland restrictor. This was undoubtedly my problem. Thanks to all the folks at 69STANG for letting me cry on your shoulder. I'll report back when I get the larger radiator in place and it's 100* outside! :thumbup1:

Well, yeah...uhm yeah....what he said....:smartass:

Which exhaust is that? Love it!

^ Dude, that's freakin' sweet! Love it. I wonder if it will actually help?

Now stop teasing me and show me a pic of this install...especially the "cooling plate".:thumbup1:

Can't believe I haven't seen that post. I'm looking at radiator with a 24" wide core. I did see one that was 33" end to end. Didn't want to do much with modifying it. Are you able to run the A/C in 100* weather, at the red light?

Hey guys, The plan is to to with a restrictor plate and a larger radiator. I'm looking at $400. If you are in the market for a *new* 20" aluminum radiator and shroud that has 10 miles on it, let me know... Is the restrictor plate extreme? Yes....but I don't ever have to worry about my engine block heating up unevenly again and I don't have to worry about finding a specialized thermostat again. http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/waterrestrictplate.html

I definitely can't afford to burn it up. It's only reached 220 twice and 230 once and I don't plan on doing that again! I have two or three ideas. PM Sent.

Huh? What kind of motor and cooling system do you have in your truck? 137* can't be good engine operating temperature? Regardless, I think I have pretty good flow. Just looking in with the cap off, I see a rush of fluid from left to right. It's a lot better with the Flow Kooler and new thermostat I just installed. I have an old 24" (I think) that I took off. (pretty beat up Universal Summit Racing Brand) I'll try that tomorrow to see if there is a difference in cooling.