02Lightning

It immediately sounded like it was dieseling? So it really didn't run just kind of spitting then? You may not have had it running long enough, like when changing the oil it takes a few seconds for the oil pressure to come up. How long did you have it running?

When you turn the key do you get voltage to any of the little wires?

I pretty just did the same thing with a 59 Alfa Romeo that sat for 18 years. Expect seals to leak, I have about 500 miles on it now.

69's have the steel elbow and 70's have a separate plastic elbow.

I haven't done a car with manifolds but I would sure think manifolds would be easier. I think the key is the 45 deg. angle.

You don't have to unbolt the master cylinder. I just did this a few months ago with full length headers and a 4-speed all bolted together. Put the back of the car on jack stands and get a good engine tilter, tilt the motor at a 45 deg. angle with trans and all and it will go in fairly easy. I say fairly easy but I’ve done this a few times, with manifolds it should be a piece of cake. I just read the other guys link, make sure you have the intake on the motor before installing it in the car. The intake in alot easier to install with the motor out of the car. I've done that a few times too.

The rubber piece is the switch it's self. Pull the center peice off the steering wheel, 3 screws on the back I think. Unhook the two wires and pull the rubber switch from the wheel and replace with a new one.

Yes, I was talking grage/house fire and of course family pets first but I would sure hate to stand their helpless and watch my car burn. I had a friend’s father watch his 428 Grand Torino burn in a car port being on jack stands like that.

I would be afraid to do this in case of a fire.

I've never held them right next to each other but from what I understand they are diffrent.

+1 on this. I know if you find a really nice used one they go for around $200

It could potentially let air in the line as described. I would open the bleeder screw at the Front or Rear wheels not the distribution block. Push the brake pedal slowly until the light goes out and then tighten the bleeder screw. If that doesn’t work go to the other end and repeat. There’s no way of telling what way the shuttle is pushed to so you have to just pick an end and start from there.

The signal cam assembly in the steering column will do that.

Just unplug it at the distribution block, it will go out.

That should have worked, sounds like you have a stuck shuttle. You can take the switch out and check it, it doesn't have anything to do with sealing the brake fluid.

Stock ones are just really hard to turn, they use the rubber as a bearing.

You must have a leak in your brake system. The switch is located on your distribution block, if there is a change in fluid pressure between the front and back the switch will come on. After the problem is fixed the switch shuttle has to be centered again.

When I think of harmonics, I think of stuff like breaking crank shafts and cam shafts. I just wouldn't think about spinning rod bearings, but I'm sure it can do all kinds of stuff.

How is the old pulley related to spinning rod bearings?

Very nice, what size wheels and tires?

Alright

I would be afraid to mount it where water can get to it. Mine is also mounted in the same location as the others. I just made a stainless bracket that bolts to the 3 shock tower bolts so I wouldn't have to make holes.

I'm in Dayton, Oh.

My car is 9:5 compression .560 lift blue thunder intake (PI copy) 2 1/2 exhaust and the rest in the sig. Interesting.... I'd say I'm loosing some on my compression.

Hey, that pretty much is right where I'm at on hp, but I have more gear and a little more tire. What are your motor specifics?