bnickel

the ones in the chop i his sig pic are the billet ones. the cost vs weight savings is entirely up to you, i like them both but i think if you are going to spend the money on a good 17" tire you should really have some nice light aluminum wheels to go with them. then again, you wouldn't have to worry about curb rash nearly as much with steel wheels as you would with aluminum wheels, however, the catch 22 here is that if you do hapen to get some curb rash on the aluminum wheels you can file, sand, buff and polish it back out whereas with the steel wheel you'd have to have them rechromed to fix any curb rash. i'm kind of in that same boat right now. the wheels that i have on the car have some curb rash but i can fix that pretty easily. the 69 shelby wheels i got to replace them have some curb rash and the chrome outer rim also has some rust, rather than spend a ton of money to have the wheels disassembled, have the hoops rechromed and have the centers reinstalled, i elected to add some chrome trim reings instead. it looks pretty good with the trims but would be so much nicer if the hoops were rechromed but i simply can't afford it.

those mustangs plus ad is for the steel version. they do actually make those in 17" but they are heavy SOB's

yeah, first obviously, clean it reall well then spray the chrome paint and let it cure for a day or two the tape it off and spray the satin black.

got any pics yet?

the original color is called charcoal black metallic. i just used satin black and it looks good

wow, those pedals look nice. i finally got my lower dash put back in the car today, with some help from my little brother. i should have put my new gas pedal in today as well but it didn't even occur to me while i was under the dash. i did get my wiring harness re-taped though and reinstalled all of the AC stuff though. i even had to reconnect the ground wire that attaches to the gas pedal bolt too...oh well a project for another day i guess. i still nede to paint the brake pedal arm too, just ran out of light today.

you could drill out the rivets and flip the cover over and get the lettering facing rightside up. i've been contemplating doing something similar myself. i was going to get an original style solid state "thinck" cover and install it on the electronic regulator in place of that unit's "thin" cover.

looking pretty good although, your voltage regulator is mounted crooked and i presonally think you should flip it upside down so water doesn't collect right there where the wiring is exposed to the connections on the regulator. just a possible water damage concern there i thought you should be aware of. still can't wait to see the finished product out on the road. hell, you may have to make a road trip to good ol' west texas and give me a ride. :001_smile:

glad to help. you can get the harness clip kit cheaper from Mustangs Unlimited than from year one, MU is like 22 bucks for the complete kit IIRC. i bought one but it has been several months ago. it is a scott drake brand kit.

nice work, glad to see you're making progress. for the harness tape, i would really recommend the original friction tape on the wiring, then put the harness wrap over that and apply more friction tape. use regular electrical tape at the ends so the friction tape doesn't unravel. you might consider getting a couple of packages of the repro harness clips/tie-downs for the 69 so you'll plenty of them to hold the harness to the sheetmetal

yes it is fun to watch, keep posting

ummm...yeah...i can't resist... that's what you say but what did she think about it?

yeah i would definietly mock everything up. i would also take a lot of measurements diagonally between the firewall and rad support at the corners as well as horizontal and parrallel measurements everywhere you can. you don't want to get it all put together and then realize something is out of whack. i'd also recommend mocking up the suspension and wheels/tires and make sure everything looks good there as well, although i'd wait until you have a few good tack welds to hold up all the weight.

not sure if the 67/68 cougs had the BB towers or not but the 69/70 did for sure. my old 70 was originally a 351c 2v and it had them. i guess it was because the cougar was a slightly bigger and heavier, not to mention more expensive, and the smallest engine offered for 69/70 was the 351 2v, other then the boss 302 so they decided it was better to use the BB shock towers to make the chassis more stable.

looking good Steve. i'm sure glad i didn't have to go through that ordeal. mine had a small crack but were able to weld it up and then we plated it for strength. when/if i sell mine and i get another 69/70 cougar i won't have to worry about the old cracked shock tower bit since all of the cougars got the "bigblock" shock towers, even the measly little 351 2v cars.