aquapathy

https://youtu.be/MykNy8e5boM
Shelby 500 transformation

Could some one post a pic showing the routing of the front wiring harness.
Checking mine last night and it has some nasty crap repairs done.
Mine is a mess where the alternator wiring goes to the solenoid and voltage regulator.
Thanks
Walt

Hello all after being here for over 7 years & seeing other builds I figured it is time for me to start one on my 69 Coupe. I aquired the 69 Coupe back in 2001, & when I aquired the car it was being used as a parts car stripped of almost anything useable. It was missing both doors, the interior except for the dash, the engine & the trans were long gone, & was missing one fender. After 4 moves & one failed business venture I am back working on the 69 Coupe. The Coupe was originally equipped with a 302, auto, 8" 2.79 rear, standard black interior, painted meadowlark yellow, & built in Metuchen, NJ on Nov 26th, 1968. My plans for the car are to make it a restomod, 331 stroker, 5 spd trans, 9" rear with 3.70 gears, painted green with black GT side stripes & a 1970 Mach-1 hood stripe with the Mach-1 hood scoop, front & rear spoilers. Black standard interior with 1970 Mustang high back buckets, center console & Mach-1 r/s dash panel with clock. As far as wheels & tires the wheels I had on my first Mustang were Ansen sprint slotted wheels & I want those or the 68/69 GT wheels with BFG T/A radials 235/60-15's. The wiring will be completely redone using an American auto wire kit for the 69 Mustang. I will get some pics put on soon.
Mike.

looking for a 69 351W air cleaner base.

A customer called me today about a problem with his 70.  It would crank with the red/blue wire on the first post of the starter solenoid but not when the brown wire was attached there.  He said the assembly manual had it that way.  No way, I said!
 
Sure enough: look at page EO-115-1, View A, and the red/blue wire is indicated with A and the brown wire as E with the E in front and the A in back!
 
Just because it was printed on paper, doesn't mean it is correct...
 
So now it is on the Internet and the error is correct.

Now that I have one side of the leaf springs removed & will get the other side out this weekend, I need to remove the shackle bushings that go through the frame rail so I could install the new ones. Any tips or suggestions on how to remove the old ones since they feel like they do not want to come out.

Would it be hard to black out the moldings and bumper on this image? Thanks for taking the time to look guys, new on here!
 
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oH-YEFuEkbs/U3HotPaNYAI/AAAAAAAABuI/scDqTxkF-1c/s1600/Rare+1970+Ford+Mustang+Boss+302+Calypso+Coral+1.JPG
 
http://1-photos.ebizautos.com/used-1970-ford-mustang-boss302-9423-5096299-5-640.jpg

It looks like there are several good options to chose, for going from manual front drum brakes to disc.
 
I'm not too interested in power brakes so I don't need to worry about a booster.
 
that said, are any kits superior than others?  I can't really differentiate what makes one better than another:
 
-chockostang is $700
http://www.chockostangclassicmustang.com/discbrakepowersteering/discbrakeconversions.html
 
-SSBC is $1100
http://ssbrakes.com/i-10093667-1967-1969-ford-mustang-front-non-power-disc-brake-conversion-kit-a121.html
 
-MustangSteve has parts
-Scott Drake (via CJ pony parts) has a kit as well ($700)
 
why would SSBC's kit be $400 more than chockostang?

Members are concerned about the Russian invasion and getting unsecured password notices here.

My car is not getting power to the rear of the car. And I don't know what happen because it was working until I was putting some bolts back into the lower dash. So the light above in the cabin and the taillight don't get power.

Hello everyone! I can't believe I didn't find this forum until now, I notice a few of the members here from my instagram account (@grabherblue69) !
Anyways, it's a little late to post too many picture from the past build - but I'll give you a quick rundown of the history of this car and where it's at now before I start giving incremental updates.
 
This was my father's first car when he was in high school in the late 70's - just a normal fastback with a 351W in it. It was wrecked in the front end and he paid $200 cash for it... Him and his two brothers as well as their father all had fastback mustangs! Later, their father (my grandpa) built a local family shop and the father and the 3 sons have ran it since, however my grandpa is getting pretty old and doesn't do any of the work there anymore. (It's called Ray's Garage.)
 
Back to the car - we care nothing about originality in our family. Dad went through about 6 motors in this car in high school, either blowing them up or wanting more. After the 351, all of them were big block FE motors. Additionally, they bought and sold mustangs all the time and Dad always swapped the parts he liked off of them before they were sold (sorry all of you original car owners out there who are confused as to why the rear sway bar is missing or the wood grain interior!). This thing has all the "'cool stuff" - fold down rear seat, Mach 1 Woodgrain Deluxe Interior, a nice console, a rear sway bar off of a Boss 302, front discs, and so much more. It sat outside for about 10 years before he handed it over to me to start working on, completely rusted out with a 390 that barely ran and tons of problems.
 
The plan: Do whatever you want to it that you like and make it yours.
 
As of now here is a list of what has been done to it:
 
-Lots of new metal - hood, doors, tailgate, taillight panel, and some other minor metal work. 
- Bodywork and paint - Grabber Blue!!! (1970 Color, but like I said, screw originality for this build.) Dad was a bodyman for about 10 years before becoming a full time mechanic - he did the spraying and I did all the bodywork myself. Not perfect at all, simply painted it to be a driver's car. 
- Stereo somewhat in progress - Small sub in the panel that goes to the trunk and new JBL speakers in the front/ rear. Also a kenwood single din headunit up front that doesn't jump out at all. 
- All new interior
                      - Recovered the front deluxe seats but instead of a red mach one stripe I got it done in blue.
                      - 80mil sound deadening throughout the whole floor plus new mass-backed carpet. 
                      - New-ish deluxe woodgrain door panels, much nicer than the ones it had before.
                      - Refinished the console and put in a new dash pad
                      - Lots of other minor details
- Somewhat mild 428 build
                      - Block: Granpda said "You can have whatever that is over there in the corner" - Turns out to be a 428 with a CJ crankshaft and pretty 390GT heads
                      - Bored .40 over, New forged pistons (11ish to 1 compression ratio with the 390gt heads, will be about 10.5:1 or less with Edelbrock heads that I want sometime in the future)
                      - Edelbrock Cam, .572 Intake and Exhaust - Soon to put in new valve springs to go alone with that
                      - Some Edelbrock aluminum intake
                      - Tons of other extras that aren't important enough to note here - plans for small nitrous shot one day.
                    
- "Boss 428" stripes because me and my father both LOVE the Boss 302 reflective stripes for '69, however I felt like it was a shame to have "Boss 302" on the side and then a 428 in it so I got a custom set made up.
- Again, tons of other things that aren't worth noting now. Any questions just ask!
 
Currently has been running and driving for a while now, just not where it needs to be. Lots of work left and will always be an ongoing build. It has an FMX auto in it as well! 

Selling My Raven Black 70 Mach I needs a new home. Car is located in Raleigh NC
Older complete nut and bolt restoration I finished in 2004 that included Paint, interior, suspension, drivetrain, brakes
Original Shaker Hood car with original rear spoiler and rear sport deck fold down.
Car is not a concourse or matching numbers drivetrain. An H code car, triple black from the factory.
Professionally built D9 block 351w stroker, AFR heads, CC Hydraulic roller
Performance Automatic C4
9" 3.70 posi with Shelby underides, Roller Spring perches,  Eccentric Eliminators, Street or Track Adjustable Strut Rods
Disc Brakes with stainless caliper pistons, Drilled and slotted rotors, Braided stainless steel lines.
Marti Report, Loius Eminger invoice, FOMOCO letter, buck tag, Clear title
Must go, kids braces, 4 wisdom teeth and new project cause the bitter sweet sale.
Will need tires
The car is not a trailer queen and priced more than correctly so serious buyers only please.
$27,500

The Cherry Ave .Auto swap meet is this Saturday come on out .I will just be walking through this time

I will be getting my car back from the Paint shop in th next week or so and will be filming the following videos and posting to You Tube with links in our How to section....So keep your eyes peeled.
Oh will be having a friend who owned a mustang restoration shop for over 15 years assisting me in the processes, so you will be seeing top notch work, and will get some of the secrets to doing it fast and Right.
 
1. Headliner Install
2. Front and Rear Glass install.
3. Bolt in glass install and Adjustment
4. Engine and 4R70W install with Cross member from board member and Computer control from Bauman's.
5. Install of American Auto Wire Complete harness "This may be in several segments"
5. Install of Classic Auto Air complete unit, along with install of Dash pad, guages, etc....
 
6. Will attempt to film as much as i can to help as many as possible.
 
Anyone have a GOOD camera they want to loan me for a month or so :-)
Please feel free to send it over, I will gladly pay shipping hehe
 
Also I do not have any editing capabilities. Would anyone be interested in taking hours and hours of filming and editing it ...sure there will be alot of cursing, throwing of tools and just good old car building fun to be taken out ....Think this would be a great oppertunity to provide some Very useful info to our members.
 
So Stay Tuned ......
 
Mike

Anybody had any luck with these from CJ's. I fought with one side for an hour plus and could not get it to fit correctly. Ended putting the originals one back in with their cracks and speaker hole cutouts.

Looking to swap front suspension and brakes with one that has disc brakes better steering.
any suggestions one what to look for in a donor car?

Is anyone using a 14" lecarra wheel? If so, does it block your view of the gauges?
 
Thanks,
 
Matt

Yesterday I had the engine dynoed and reached my goal of 500 Hp. We had 11 runs and the highest Hp was 520, the highest Tq was 489.7. Vacuum was 11-12â€. Run was on 91 octane, Initial 12 all in at 32. Lost only a couple numbers dropping timing to 9.5.

The attached Dyno sheet was done with a 1†spacer, that had the highest Tq reading.

351C 2 bolt main stroked to a 408, Quick Fuel 780 Vac Sec, Comp Cam 602/574, 235/241 @ 50, lobe sep 112, SCAT Rod I Beam Chev 6.000, Race Tech Pistons 20 cc, SCAT Crankshaft Ford 351 Cleveland Series 9000 Cast Crankshafts, CHI 4V Aluminum Heads, Comp Cam Rockers Ultra Pro Magnum XD, Comp Cam Dual Valve Springs 165 @ 1.800 & 385 @ 1.200, Edelbrock RPM Air Gap Intake 7564, Water Pump Flow Kooler, Cloyes Timing Chain True Roller, Distributor MSD 8577, Morel Roller Lifters, Moroso Pick Up 24558, Melling Oil Pump M-84AHV, Tim Meyers -DuraBond Cam Bearings F-26G, Sanderson Shorty Headers.

Since the intake is a 4v/2v version, we ported the intake to match the CHI 4V heads. I went with the CHI 4V's because 3V's would not allow the use of my Shaker Hood Scope.

I would have had a little more gain if I tested with long tube headers.

I picked up this "69 Grande on a whim. The family I got it from bought it in 1970, and parked it in 1983 with 57K on the clock. Just put it out to pasture, literally...They painted it not long before that. Original color is Silver Jade metallic(black interior). Has a 302-2V,C4,PS,PDB and AC. Also has the dash clock. For the amount of time it was neglected it's pretty solid in many places. Rear rails, truck floors are nice. Most of the floors look great, and the rockers. Torque boxes are toast, and where the battery sits. Will need some outer bodywork also. Bottoms of fenders,doors and quarters in front/back of the wheels. The car is super straight though, never hit or taken apart! I have it listed on CL, was thinking of finding a cleaner one. Curious what others thing of my potential Pony?! Here's a few pics.

During the resto of my son's mustang I rebuilt a control valve for the power steering unit.  I have noticed a small annoying leak.  After putting up on lift and actuating several times I determined the fluid is leaking out of the boot area where the joystick goes in top of the control valve and the pitman arm connects.  Was I fooling myself in thinking I would be able to rebuild the old valve with a new rebuild kit and have it not leak?  Also, appears to be weeping from the endcaps as well. Comments, thoughts, or experience welcomed on how to proceed.
 
Thanks
Rick