418mach

I running 31 spline axles with a detroit soft locker i run street tyres for street use and m/t drag radials at the track but they dont really hook up with the manual and street setup less chance of breaking things. if your making power your making noise i dont hear the diff ratchet and happy with my setup.

the spacer is only 5/16" thick my disc fit to the inside of the flange not the outside with drum brake set up i did not use any spacer so the tyre would have been in about 1/8" more. the rear suspension is pretty tight reverse eye springs 5 leaf heavy duty shackles urethane bushes,rear bar and koni shocks. the rear fender i cant remember exactly how far it has been pushed out but 1"+. good luck with it.

well here we go first attempt at using photobucket and linking some pics. first off some sizes. measuring across the tyre to the inside well it is 14 3/8" the clearance between the tyre side wall and spring is 3/4" i do have a spacer on the hub to give clearance on the disc brake caliper hose fitting. hope this helps. ps. i use one set of rims for street and a set of weld prostars for the track http://s757.photobucket.com/albums/xx214/418mach/

ok sorry about that what you guys call fenders downunder are more often referred to as guards. your ride looks great nice job i can see what you mean about the wheels here outside the fender and you are looking for trouble from the law. i have a go at some pics in a few days when i have some time.

The dizzy will be in the same position with the windsor block if it fitted before it will fit after. i had a smaller dual point which let me use my own straight bar i fabricated and i have seen another that was made with a large radius from side to side arch over the distributor for extra clearance. i ve since taken it off to fit a msd pro billet dizzy. seen that you have an empty engine bay there maybe some other work you could consider to strengthen the towers. i have the export brace with a little extra reinforcing at the back firewall this area i found stress cracks when i had it stripped out. i also on the shock tower made the thick plate on the engine side fit flush and welded all around the dressed it up to a square edge and on the other side fitted a gusset to reinforce the tower all that done it helps reduce the need for the monte carlo bar although i would put it back if it would fit but only a straight one. depending on what spacer plates and manifold you use you might have some clearance issues with the distributor my first on had to have some ground away and a little on the manifold to clear i have the trackboss with the 218cc chi and needed spacers plates to adapt to the high ports it was about 1" higher in the valley

i am running 295 on 10" rim 0 offset or 5 1/2" backspace my guards are pumped out and the lip completely rolled under it has been done so when you look at the car it takes a keen eye to notice. when you look down vertical the sidewall is inside the guard i have no clearance issues other than when loaded up and its only a touch. a freind had 295 on 10" with 6" backspace and had clearance issues on the inside well and not a lot of clearance with the springs the outer on his only had the top lip rolled. another guy running 295s on 8" says he has too much side flex on the tyres on cornering. so IMO to fit the 295s properly you need to work the guards. not good at doing the pic thing but could try if you want. 295s make the car stand out.

I bought one from a hot rod guy out here who brings them in from overthere stainless steel polished screw cap about 2.25" dia and 16" long i think there are shorter and longer sizes made a couple of brackets and fitted it to the return on the side frame of the radiator adjacent to the washer the vent is then clear straight down if over capacity out of the way and no extra holes in the sides.

I bought one from a hot rod guy out here who brings them in from overthere stainless steel polished screw cap about 2.25" dia and 16" long i think there are shorter and longer sizes made a couple of brackets and fitted it to the return on the side frame of the radiator adjacent to the washer the vent is then clear straight down if over capacity out of the way and no extra holes in the sides.

I started with standard mounts and the motor was lifting under load with rock and roll at idle i only have minimum clearance under the scoop and minimal side clearance so i made a U bolt clamp to hold the LHS together since then fitted mounts from TCP (Total Control Products) which are allmost solid with PU bush with a bolt thru with spacers either side allowed me to position the motor for side clearance and front to back i have driven the car without the scoop on and watched the top of the air cleaner under load and it sits rock solid and not a noticeable difference vibration or noise. my headers were already made and was min clearance on L H mount the heat was a little to much and it dropped with the pipe contacting the mount so i replaced the PU bushes on this side with aluminium. i am also run a P U mount at the rear. now with one side solid i only notice a slight vibration at high speed when backing off maybe the exhaust reverberatig back but really no real difference normal driving, been to the track and i am happy with the way mine is set up now.

Flight96 it really depends on your goals the amount of hp you could make from the clevor imo wont suit a vert because it doesnt stop at the firewall and it will cost more in the end u will be upgrading the drive line and running big exhaust maybe twin 3" and stiffening the body these are some of the other issues to consider. my half unfinnished project is a 69 vert i intend to run a tame 347 as the orig motor was a 302. but if you go ahead with the trackboss manifold has the retro appearance and will keep the otherall height down thats what i got hold of to do my 418 it suits the heads and the air cleaner is thru the hood but just under the scoop of the Mach 1 if i used bigger heads it would have needed bigger intake to benefit. now looking to modify the manifold for efi with 4v throttle body. the pistons are forged Probes my H beams are 6.250 but i used a 78w block the next size down are 6.200 which i believe would suit a 69 block decked and squared. the length of pushrods should be done when setting up the valve gear a rockers to get the correct geometry. if you are like me if you want to do it you wont be happy till its done.

i forgot to say that in the end it is better driving with the TREMEC than the toploader i went for the 600 bcause of horsepower rating i think the TKO3550 is smaller ? but not that much in $ and has different ratios

I fitted a TKO600.82 to my mach 1 and yes it wont fit without some massaging and i also wanted to keep my consul. so i worked the tunnel up the minimum amount and also had to open up the shift opening a little on one side i also modified the tunnel bracing just i front to give more clearance thinned the profile then boxed it to make it stronger. i also bought a crossmember thinking it would be easier but it made the motor angle wrong and took up the space that i wanted for the 3.5" collectors so i fabricated my own. if i was to do again i would lower the motor first with the front engine mounts that are available i also went for the .82 overdrive because of not as many revs to drop off the cam. i have some pics somewhere i do have one of the inside for sure.

its something you should find a solution for and have some clearance for the wheel on bumps as well as i have seen a fender severely damaged when the tyre picked up the valance when reversing pretty ugly.

are you talking static compression or dynamic compression you will need to factor in your cam timing events to know where u are change cam and change dc. my static is 10.8 but my cam brings the dynamic back to around 9.5-9.8

I am happy with the 185cc CHI3vs with 4v valves on my clevor/boss with a little extra work with the port matched track boss manifold and small spacer puts the air cleaner thru the hood but still under the stock mach1 air scoop. With a dual point dizzy a basic ignition and running rich put out 447rwhp on the chassis dyno which those who do the maths is right up there with the advertised numbers. for the street i have good response right thru the rev range. satisfaction in i got what i paid for and i think theres more in it and more than if i went for same size windsor heads IMO. 500+ is a beast, 600+ is a weapon