1969_FEStang

Mounted and waxed and they are pretty !
I even went ahead and trimmed the black pair just because .
I would like to make a pair this weekend but i dont know if i will have the time 

So i got a little bored today and decided to go to home depot ,just walking around and wind up in the paint department when i see this ,Rustoleum hammered paint in black . I thought what the hell and bought a couple of cans . I have a set of the fold down fiberglass panels and thought i would try it out and see if it was close . I scuffed the panels with green skotch brite and sprayed a coat ,let that set up a hit it with one more coat ,i would say it is damn near a perfect match for the factory texture ,i only sprayed half the panel so i could compare .  Now i didnt prep it very well so i will have to clean it off and do a correct paint job but now i can retexture some panels i have here and make some new molds ,i even have the two smaller top strip fiberglass pieces i have been wanting to make molds for ,the pieces at the top corners of the back seat for the non fold down. I want to make a two sided press mold of these so they will be smooth on the back and textured on the front as original . 

I like mine, I'm seriously surprised that most can hear them I don't.  Shoot if the exhaust isn't load enough then turn up the tunes. :)

Thanks to latoracing for providing me with some pointers on how to form the flanges. 
Below are some photos of the driver's vent that I've been working on. I need about 3/4 of the circumference on this vent and a little less on the passenger side. I decided to go a slightly different route and form the needed flange out of two pieces to see if I could avoid fabricating forms. I used primarily a bench vice, two pliers (one positioned on each side of the bend radius), a hammer, and some scrap pieces of metal to help form a sharper bend radius. Oh, and some cardboard to make a template (only a DiGiorno pepperoni and cheese box will work here).
The final photo is of the two fabricated flanges held in place only with some welding magnets, so they're not completely flat.

This was discussed on the old FE forum. I do recall that the universal cross flows are quite a bit shorter than the stock rad.
https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/febigblockold/viewtopic.php?f=21142&t=2478&p=15696&hilit=griffin#p15696

"The first to claim innocence are the first to be suspicious of the crime." 
Colombo  

I keep telling you ,the red wire with the green stripe does not connect to the green wire with the red stripe but will you listen ...noooo! 

You mean like this? 
we have the same taste, I think this hood would look great on a 69. i have it all together, but not supported or finished. I ended up buying the MTF hood which is very nice, but Id like to get this finished off too.
 

Wilwood is coming out with a short version of their master cylinder to cure this issue.
I use late mode Ford Explorer booster with a Ford Ranger Reservoir.   Hooked to 2004 Mustang Cobra brakes front and rear, Baer/Motorsport drilled/slotted rotors Mustang Steve Brackets
 

Great work Ridge Runner. Maybe it's Halloween, but i see a Donald Duck mask.

And half the knowledge,
and half the Ford parts,
and half the land...

Trimmed my sheet of fiberglass and placed it where it needs to be and made several reference marks so it will be in the same place everytime i have to remove it . Now i have to make the new plate and start chopping ,slicing and glassing back together 

Well i talked with with my cousin ,he is a lawyer ,no infringement of any kind ,but he did inform me that i have a pretty good case fore slander against dip wad . He also informed me that since i am a business  ,if any potential buyer that contacted me and backed out because of dip wads rant ,i could ad the loss of those sales  to the law suit  ,and there just happened to be 10 of them ,he is checking into it all 

Working on it !

The hood molding fits ,and it not even tight ,this is an original molding 

Whipped up a little handy dandy hood puller this morning ,yanked that sucker right out like a tooth !
Only problem i could find with the hood was i was light on the gel coat on one of the scoops but that is not a problem ,i just have to take a little more care spraying up in there in the mold .
I sat it on the 70 ,nothing bolted down and it just about a perfect fit .i even held the headlight buckets in place to get some pics . I will have to pull out one of my 69 and bolt it all down ,hinges and all 

Trimmed the under brace ,drilled all the holes and threaded . The latch plate is in ,all that is left is bond the two together . 
I test fit the ram air chamber to see if it will go over the scoops and it does ,now i have to make the plate fit the under brace

Blasphemy to drop a Dr. Pepper!  How could you???  You are hereby sentenced to another couple of days of wet-sanding.

Left the heater on in the shop yesterday and all night ,was almost 90* in the shop . Thing hardened like iron . It was all i could do to trim it out haha. It popped right out of the underbrace ,the mold release peeled out in a sheet . Got it all trimmed out ,still need to sand and polish both molds and by next week i should be able to make a hood .

Took it down to 2000 and hit it with two coats of mold wax ,it is very slick . Did you know this stuff can build a static charge that can jump 6 inches ,it will light you up haha. No finger prints and wax means you cant pick up any thing ,dropped my Dr.Pepper :(

Wet sanded ,two coats of mold wax , three coats liquid mold release and gel coated ,should have atleast one layer on today 

ONE !  Five more 

2  3. 4 5. 6  and i am dead ...funeral will be tuesday ,or we will pull the under brace from the hood ,what ever happens first !

Under brace is in primer ,a good block sanding ,and fix a couple of places ,one more primer and it will be ready to make the mold

All 6 layers on ,it was 80 * here today so thing set up very fast . 
I have to build the box and in a couple of days i can remove the hood from the mold and trim out the mold ...then the polishing !