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Everything posted by 69isfine

  1. No change when my headers were installed. I was seeing high temp registering after my new engine was installed. The stock gauges were not giving me a true number and I was getting really nervous in slow traffic. Installing electric gauges gave the true readings.
  2. I wish...my next big upgrade will be efi.
  3. I managed to shoot various locations on the engine with an infrared gun. Highest temp was 175. I'm going to install mechanical gauges to get a better reading. I'm told new engines will run hotter til they are worn in. The 75% reading seems to be the default when the engine warm and the car is moving. Yesterday, a line up at drivethrough knocked up the reading to just before the 1st line of the H. I think I'll park it and walk in next time.
  4. Thanks for the article. I'll check the ideas on my car.
  5. It's a first bore on this block and it's at 30 over. Compression is now 9.5 to 1 with a combination of mild cam and flat top pistons. No change to header set up. I don't have an exact temp but it is uncomfortably close to high. Temp goes back to 60-75% of the gauge range when I get the car moving. How do I check the rad for restricted flow?
  6. Yes, it's the same unit. Are you think it needs to be changed.
  7. I'm in break-in mode with a 69 block, heads, buddybar intake, Carter afb 4bbl. On drives around the city, I am seeing my engine temps creep up to an uncomfortable level. It has not been overly hot weather and I did not have temp issues on the old motor. Any thoughts on why this is happening? Obvious move is to replace current 2 core with a new rad, but I'm tapped out after the rebuild.
  8. Grant 5646 wheel billet adapter and a grant horn button for classic and signature is trending in the right direction. The horn works and nothing pops off. My remaining issue is the steering wheel shaft. It's too tall and I need to cut a small piece. Had anyone else had to cut it down? I have a sawsall but no other cutting tool.
  9. The car looks like it was hit on the front right based on the rad supports. It looks ok aside from where the wheel sits in the wheel well. There is less clearance than the other side.
  10. I'm told by some of mustang guys that a frame alignment is a great first step before painting and avoiding fitment issues. Costs is about $1000. Is this common practice for you?
  11. As it turned out, my numbers matching engine was already bored 60 over so i had sleeving or doing rings and bearings only as an options. By shear luck on timing, a guy was hanging onto a 69 block off a mach 1 from the 70's that was totaled in a crash. Theoretically with only 10K miles on it.Turns out that one of the cylinders was out by 10/1000 so it is getting bored 30 over. After choosing flat top pistons, I am now down to the cam selection. The Extreme Energy 256H is emerging as a front runner for the low-middle end plus some noise but I would like some suggestions. Also I'd like to confirm Plastikote 224 as preferred engine paint choice in color and ease of application. Thanks for everyone's contribution to the topic.
  12. I bought the block for $900. The story is that it came out of a Mach1 after a crash at 10,000 miles. The guy bought the salvage and has had the block since 1970. I'm taking it to the machine shop to measure up and it appears to need a hone only. What the pros and cons of sticking with stock pistons vs boring 30 over? Would you bore a block that does not need it?
  13. I bought mine from wheel vintiques. Same set up as you they were satin chrome spokes. Rees a craigslist in my area. Prices are cdn $ so you can do a currency on version. https://vancouver.craigslist.ca/bnc/pts/d/1969-cougar-new-black/6439636121.html
  14. Machine shop has come back with bad news. My numbers matching block has already been bored 60 over.. Options I am aced with -289 block sing the 351w heads from my engine $1500 -sleeve all 8 cylinders $125 per cylinder - rings and bearings only -buy a 69 351w block with crank shaft that has not been bored at all..$900 Car is not driven much. Max 5 fill ups per year. Street use only. Ahoughts n a direction to go?
  15. I'm almost 10 years behind this thread but I just bought a C90x on the weekend and not trying to pair it wi a carb. 351w Engine is being rebuilt but I don't know the condition of the engine just. Planning a mild cam and I've got access to some cheap but excellent quality rings, bearings and pistons. Did you stay with 600 cfm or did you go higher. I'm leaning to Carter or Holley but possibly going up to 650.
  16. Costs here in Victoria BC are $275 per bumper. I'm tempted to buy reproduction ones for far less $
  17. What intakes fit onto an old stock 351w?
  18. Yes, a knock so planning out rebuild on 351w. Where do I find the engine stamp to verify matching status? Thinking mild cam, and switch to 4 barrel and intake. Any other ideas? I've owned this for 20 years but never verified the engine matching. Where is it located? It's a seasonal cruiser. 4-5 fill ups per year but I'm thinking of doing the body (looks good from afar) and interior. what do I need for a budget if it's farmed out.
  19. Thanks. I am heading this way as well as of this week.
  20. I bought mine from Wheel Vintques at the Portland Swapmeet as few years ago. They the one with satin chrome and only 3 were available so I bought the 4th as polished. When I contacted them to produce a 4th at full price, we had a long series of misadventures, communication challenges and their move to another location. However, in the end, I got what I wanted with price and product concessions for the trouble.
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