lalojamesliz

I will. I just like asking more than one person and with all the knowledge here, I can't go wrong :)

Just made a deal on a 7qt t-sump oil pan :)

Ati can set you up with a very good balancer. I've used a couple from them and never had a problem. At least a problem that wasn't self inflicted. Lol

If you happen to find that motivation thing, and have some left over will you send it my way??? Re the pics, can you take a screen shot of the car, then post that?

there is no problem with the pump. it just has the radiators outlet on the lower passenger side.  the 70 radiators have the outlet on the lower drivers side.  so if you went with the 70 and up type radiators that had opposite side inlet/outlet or some other aftermarket radiator, then you would want the corresponding pump.  I believe it's generally preferred to have inlet and outlet on opposite sides (unless it's a double pass).  This does not imply the 69 setup doesn't work.

the water pump/radiator scenario is an entirely different can of worms.
 
yes, internally balanced is good.

Why not ask your engine builder to supply the parts needed or, in writing, to recommend what you should buy ?  Heck of a time to drop the ball ?  Brian

Yeah, that's what I decided on....  Thanks guys

heres some suggestions.
 
CORRECT TIMING COVER
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c5oz-6019-b/overview/make/ford
 
TIMING COVER POINTER
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c2oz-6023-b
 
WATER PUMP
You can use a passenger side inlet pump with a cross flow rad if you use an aftermarket flexible rad hose . I sometimes use the flexible stainless steel ones. You can also use this pump with a stock hose if you get a dual pass radiator because the lower outlet will be on the passenger side.
 
A far as pump brands, I would use flowkooler or edelbrock.
DRIVERS SIDE FLOWKOOLER
https://www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/store/Water Pumps-Ford-CID: 351W/5.8L/c21_30_231/index.html
 
PASSENGER SIDE FLOWKOOLER
https://www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/store/Water Pumps-Ford-CID: 289/4.7L/c21_30_124/index.html
 
ALTERNATOR BRACKETS
I don't know if the brackets are the same for both pumps.
 
CRANK - Can be used with 1 or 2 piece rear main seal . I would have the block machined for a 1 piece seal.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-4351c60/overview/make/ford
 
CONNECTING RODS
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/esp-6200b3dl19/overview/make/ford

MOREL HYDRAULIC LIFTERS - 1 full turn of preload
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-91168/overview/make/ford

CUSTOM PISTONS 4032 MATERIAL - Have them machined to get around 9.8 - 10.0 compression with the cam above . This will be around a 16 cc dish if you do the other things I mentioned but verify this with the piston mfg.
http://racetecpistons.com/

CAM - We need more info on what type of idle etc you want . This would be a very good cam for your app but it might idle just a little rougher than you want . If you want a fairly smooth idle with just a tiny bit of lope/roughness, I would use a slightly smaller cam . Use 1.6 rockers with this cam.
Do you have power brakes?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-220525-12
 
1.6 ROCKERS FOR TALL VALVE COVERS - These will not fit under shelby cobra style covers.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/scc-scp1018
 
ANY OF THE "AIR GAP" INTAKES BELOW . SATIN, POLISHED, OR ENDURA SHINE
https://www.summitracing.com/search/make/ford/engine-size/5-8l-351/engine-family/ford-small-block-windsor/carburetor-mounting/4-barrel-square-bore?N=4294918329%2B400065%2B4294918322%2B4294951343%2B4294951338%2B4294951337%2B4294949621&SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=intake manifolds
 
INTAKE GASKETS
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-1262s3/overview/make/ford
 
TIMING CHAIN - It looks like they only make the torrington bearing type for a windsor now but you can call and ask if you don't want the bearing type and want to save a few dollars.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rollmaster-CS10025-Timing-Chain-Set-Double-Roller-Torrington-Early-Ford-302-351-/331680973063
 
If you had the mains line honed you will possibly need a shorter chain which they used to make.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rollmaster-CS10025-Timing-Chain-Set-Double-Roller-Torrington-Early-Ford-302-351-/331680973063
 
CYLINDER HEADS - These will work but a couple others also will.
https://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=afr 1383-716
SPECS
http://www.airflowresearch.com/195cc-sbf-competition-cylinder-head/#specs
 
Cylinders will need to be notched slightly with a dye grinder for the 4.1" 418 stroker crank.

get a lower profile t-style pan.

Does the distributor have a vacuum advance and does the vacuum advance hold vacuum if it does have one?

Have you checked the timing with a timing gun? 
Have you checked for dragging brakes?
Have you had a wheel alignment recently? 

I'll make you a crossmember to fit any pan you get Ed.

I considered the msd billets but I thought they had quality issues also but now I can look at them. Just need to find one with a vac advance. 
I've always seen good stuff about the duraspark system. Is it hard to recurve and advance them?

On the Duraspark distributors, the mechanical and vacuum advance mechanisms are the same design as your stock points distributor.  So, adjusting them is the same.  If stock appearance is important, externally, the Duraspark and old points distributors look the same.
If you get to a point and decide to try and adjust timing curve yourself, barnett468 on this forum is usually pretty good with that and has talked other members through adjusting it.

Good luck deciding.  If you haven't, you might look to see what Crane offers.  I'd say Mallory as well, but they're now owned by MSD.  When I'm in your situation I go to a long time friend of mine that owns a machine shop.  He can sometimes tell me what's commonly used at the local circle tracks.  Kind of gives me an idea of what's reliable.
Are the new MSD distributors still reliable?  They use GM style advance mechanisms and Ford Duraspark type magnetic pick ups.  Simple, and the better items from both Ford and GM distributors.

If you reuse your old distributor, make certain the bushing is in good condition and the breaker plate is not worn out.  Worn breaker plates are common on older Ford points distributors.  I'm not a Pertronix fan.  But I suspect sometimes they are installed without any regard for the condition of the distributor.
I've had good luck with MSD.  But my MSD ignition parts are about 15 years old and I avoid any of their Street Fire parts.  I wouldn't be surprised if MSD is now manufacturing overseas and the quality has suffered.

With any new oil pan/pump/pickup I always like to check the clearance.  Too close and it can starve due to pickup pulling to the pan, too far and it can cavitate /starve

Ill list out my build below.
My shit gets beat on every time my ass hits the seat, and like you I wanted as much HP as I could get and still be street friendly in terms of Idle because I run an automatic trans with a tight converter along with AC... My specifications were Pump gas friendly, Decent idle in drive with AC on, Max Hp I could get with off the shelf parts and I wanted a large smooth HP/torque curve...... We get 87, 91, 93 octane here in Louisiana and its mostly all been cut with 10% or more ethanol as stated at the pump.... My car runs fine on 91 &93 altho I usually stick to 93.
 
Anyhow here is how I am set up.
 
Trans is a built 4R70W with 2800 stall controlled by a Bauman controller, rear end is a 9" with 3.73 Trac Loc and Caltracs, I have Factory Auto Air for Heating and Cooling and don't us a kick up solenoid to control Idle with the ac on, Also have Power steering as well. 
Motor is as follows.
408 Cubes, Block is from a 95 Ford Lightning so it was a factory roller block.
Short Block Consists of Eagle Forged Crank, I-Beam Forged Rods, Ross Pistons, and a Main Girdle with ARP Studs.
Heads are Box Stock AFR 205's (these are the older Nitrous Ported version which are a CNC version if I recall, they are now called outlaw heads I think. I have flow sheets from the heads if you wanna see Real flow numbers off a Super Flow bench.
The springs were changed to match the Comp Hyd Roller Cam that we had Comp Grind as well. Valves are stock untouched from AFR.
The Camshaft is a Comp Custom Hyd Roller grind and the specs are 228/236@50 with 563/571 Lift and ground on a 113 LSA.
I run the Stock Style Hyd Roller lifters for Ford Motorsports along with the stock style retainer and dog bones.. both of which were bought new so I did not use the old spider and dog bones from the motor when I got it.
The intake is an Edelbrock Vic Jr unported but it matched the AFR heads to a T somehow...Carb is an 850 Holley Dbl pumper W/Manual secondaries.
Headers are FRP stepped from 1-3/4" to 1-7/8" into a 3" collector if I recall.
 
We dynode the motor with an HP 950 Carb and 1-7/8 or 2" primary headers on 93 octane pump gas and it responded to the tune of 550.9hp on motor and 659hp on a 125 shot of gas....Torque was over 500lbft at like 4000 RPM's I think? I would have to pull dyno sheets to verify that tho. 
 
All and all I could not ask for a better street friendly pavement pounder that I would drive anywhere.
I have driven the car to and from Cruising the Coast 3 years running, did some of the Hot Rod power tour and recently ran a poker run from Houston to Lake Charles LA with some high end exotics and this motor has been problem free except for the time I had converter issues and burnt the thrust bearing out, but that was MY fault.
Oh I get an average of 20 mpg with the 850 carb and OD transmission Btw LOL.
I have videos of the Idle in park and in drive if you wanna see them... it has become a little to mellow for me and I am wanting to possibly do a cam swap to something more aggressive sounding LOL...
It idles right at 650 RPM's in gear with the AC on and has a nice smooth lope to it hehe

i thought you were going to use a nodular case and daytona pinion.
i don't understand your question about rpm vs mph, however, with that much power it will be around a 6500 rpm engine so imo you don't want to have it spin less than at least 1800 rpm at 60.
check this out.
http://www.wallaceracing.com/gear-speed.php
 

center section:  price difference is anywhere from $35 cheaper to $310 more (i believe you get a lot better differential).
http://www.strangeengineering.net/product/strange-pro-ford-9-n-case-posi-unit-std-gear-yoke.html/
31 spline axle package: $421
http://www.strangeengineering.net/product/ford-mopar-or-chevy-alloy-axles-ret-plts-brgs-1-2-stud-kit.html/
35 spline axle package: $421
http://www.strangeengineering.net/product/35-spl-alloy-axles-retainer-plates-bearings-1-2-stud-kit.html/
i think it seems crazy not to go 35 if building all new (unless you don't want a few extra pounds of weight).
here is a 35 spline

Looking good!
Same thing I'm looking at but not sure if I need the 35 spline since I'm looking at getting 285 drag radials and possibly caltracs

have you priced out the difference between going with a 31 spline setup and a 35 spline setup?  if you have to buy all the parts, i think you may find the cost difference is very small (comparing prices at strange as an example).

If you want a drag radial for the back that will have good street manners (wet driving, noise, etc), the NT555R tires are more popular with the street guys.  You get more life out of them and are more of a street/drag hybrid, rather than the full out nearly-slicks tread pattern of the NT05R.   You could go with NT555R in the back and NT555 in the front.
 
 
 

I went with the Strange rear end and axles when I swapped out my c6 with a AOD. True Trac with 3.70 gear 31spline.