lalojamesliz reacted to RPM in steering box questions
The 16:1 radio box may be heavy at really low speeds below 5-10 mph, but they are perfect with great feel above that. I'm an old, out of shape 65 year vintage guy who had no trouble using a 16:1 as a manual box with 245s and 7° caster. Girlie boys like Lalojames might struggle with the 16:1 box. :)
lalojamesliz reacted to Rich Ackermann in Need recommendation for a Disc to Disc Proportioning Valve for a 1970
I replaced all of the brake lines. Don't use 50 year old lines with your new brake system. I bought the 1970 Mustang kit from Inline Tube. All the lines will need some modification. I prefer to use Stainless Steel. but it is much harder to work with...hard to bend, and if you need to trim them, it is impossible to flare the ends with hand tools. So I would recommend using Steel lines.
The line from the rear to the Proportioning valve will need some bending to line up, as will the two front lines. The lines from the valve to the master cylinder will need to be bent. My conversion kit cam with rubber lines to connect the two rear lines to the rear disc caliper, but I chose to go all hardline instead. The rear lines after the junction "T" on the axle will need to be trimmed and bent to line up with eh rear calipers. The critical part for me was finding the Banjo to 3/8" female inverted flare to connect the existing hardline fitting to the rear caliper.
My front Granada disc brake assembly came with the flex lines. I needed to add an adapter to connect the hardline fitting to the flex tube. I also need to install a mounting bracket to secure the hard line and flex tube to the frame.
Finding all the right fitting adapters took a lot of time a searching and some trial and error. If you have access to a hydraulic flaring tool and know someone who can help you make the tubes with the right flares and fittings, then that may be a good route to take.
Finally, you will need to make some mods to the parking brake cable ends to adapt it to the rear brake calipers. Also you will need a GM Proportioning valve Brake Warning light plug. Our Mustang have two wire plugs and the GM plug is one wire. Just twist the two wires from you Ford harness together and connect it to the GM one wire. Let me know if I can provide anymore info.
lalojamesliz got a reaction from RPM in What master cylinder do you run on manual brakes?
A 1" bore master. I asked if he can give me advice on how to set the bias and he basically told me every car is different and gave me a list of the master cylinders he sells.....
Well I ordered a wilwood tandem but the dual remote reservoir and adj porpotional valve kit. I like it because it has the pushrod already and lines from the master to the porpotional valve. I just learned that the tandem feature makes it two independent systems. I didn't know that. That sold me
I just didn't care for the oem style that needs to be opened to view how much fluid you have.
lalojamesliz reacted to Rich Ackermann in Best way to prep engine bay for paint
I thought I add my two cents to this thread...
I use Evaporust on just about every rusty part I can. Even if I plan to media blast the part as it cuts down on the basting time. Evaporust is bio degradable and will not remove paint marks provided the paint is not over rust. My favorite examples are 1973 Mustang driveshaft where the paint marks were very visible after soaking in Evaporust for 4-5 days, the parking brake pedal and the clutch on my York A/C Compressor, which I wanted to retain a natural finish on it and could not use any gritty material to clean it..
Someone mentioned Dustless sand blasting. I had my 70 Mach 1 Dustless Blasted in my driveway by a service. First I'll say Dustless is misleading...No dust but very messy. Since they use a water solution of sand and a rust inhibitor, it prevents heating and warping of the metal and prevents flash rust for weeks provided the car is kept dry indoors. It's important to shake and blow out all the blasting material from every nook and cranny. I was removing the basting material from the rockers and rails for week afterwards. I wish I could have dipped the car in a big vat of Evaporust, but that much Evaporust would have been very expensive!
Once the sheetmetal work was done, I sprayed the undercarriage, floors, engine bay, wheel wells, inside the doors, and trunk area with SPI Red Epoxy, which is designed to be applied over bare metal. They have gray and black if you don't like red. I then covered the floors, inside the doors, underside of roof, and wheel wells with Raptor bed-liner. Raptor provides very good rust protection for the floors and other hidden areas subject prone to rust. You can get Raptor in various colors or in a tintable version, if you want to use your body color. On the Undercarriage and the wheel wells again, I applied Lizard-Skin over the red Epoxy for sound deadening and to give it a textured "undercoating like" appearance. Lizard Skin is gray in color rather than black, which I was not happy about. Later I also applied 3M rubber undercoating to the wheel wells to give it a more stock like texture and appearance in black.
Finally on the engine bay I sprayed Eastwood Chassis Black over the SPI Red Epoxy.
EvapoRust at work... I used a 4" wide PVC tube, stuck the driveshaft it it, and capped the ends after filling it with the stuff. LEft it for a week or so...
Submerged the parking brake assembly in Evaporust...
Submerged the just the clutch face down in a pan of Evaporust...
My 73 Convertible done with SPI Red Epoxy on the undercarriage.
My 70 Mach 1 undercarriage with SPI Red Epoxy ...
Gray colored Lizard-Skin over the SPI Red Epoxy. I did not like the gray color in the wheel wells, so the wheel wells were sprayed with the Red Epoxy, then the gray lizard-skin, and then black 3M Rubber undercoating. Hopefully good rust protection and some sound deadening.
Engine bay with Eastwood Chasis Black over SPI Red Epoxy
Raptor on the floors I used premixed Caution Orange instead of the tintable type. I thought it was close to the car's Calypso Coral body color. Kind of bright, but no one will see it once the interior is in...lol!
Dustless Basting in my driveway... no dust, but a big cleanup job afterwards....
lalojamesliz got a reaction from JayEstes in Best way to prep engine bay for paint
I got the new front section in and today I plan to clean up what's left. I was considering a paint gun with part A and B primer and ..... then I remembered @JayEstes gave me all of this great info on what specifically to use and not to over complicate this like I usually do. Ordering 4 of the primer and 4 of the paint. I hope it's enough. This will be for everything I can touch while inside the engine bay. Just not the frame rails. That will be with the bed liner. I don't plan to use seam sealer.
For the underside, wheel wells and under the fenders I ordered some raptor bed spray liner. My son sprayed that on his trucks bed and it's holding up great and it's been over a year at least. Even the thin coated areas I told him to hit again and he didn't look good still and the sun is always on it.
I'm off today, kids are at school, wife is on her online classes and studying and it's not hot yet...... time to get to work.
lalojamesliz reacted to rwcstang in LED headlights
I have the 6000k.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L45VCT7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - https://www.octanelighting.com/5-34-crystal-clear-glass-metal-headlight-6k-set-033-034-3rd-gen-led-3.html
Octane lighting link: https://www.octanelighting.com/5-34-crystal-clear-glass-metal-headlight-6k-set-033-034-3rd-gen-led-3.html
lalojamesliz reacted to Rich Ackermann in Holley sniper or Fitech efi
I just installed the Holley Sniper EFI with the Holley Hyperspark Ignition box, distributor, and coil on my 1970 M-code Cleveland which is stroked to a 408ci. Also installed a Holley Retrofit return-less fuel pump for 1970 mustang 22 gallon tank. It can use your existing 3/8" fuel line. You will need to modify each end of the line to connect the EFI, filter, and pump, but its fairly straight forward. There is a significant amount of wiring and a few fuses and relays needed to bring it all together. When adding the EFI, ignition and fuel pump, make sure you have enough available voltage. I doubt a stock 50- 60 amp alternator and the 10 gauge supply wire in the stock ignition harness is enough to support it all, particularly if you have previously added other power hungry components (i.e. a modern stereo and amp). Correct wire size is important too. Holley is very clear about this in there installation manual.
Make sure you have no exhaust leaks before the O2 sensor. Even a pinhole leak can draw in ambience outside air and cause an erroneous lean fuel condition and the Holley EFI ECU will be constantly adjusting the fuel mixture incorrectly. Ask me how I know!
As far as I am concerned Holley has fantastic customer support. They have technicians available 7 days a week and until 10pm Eastern time. A few weeks after installing my Sniper, the ECU failed, Holley sent me a shipping label and 10 days after I sent it to them, I got it back. They had replaced the ECU and the handheld display completely free of charge.
All that said, my setup is running well. Still making adjustments. I have no regrets picking the Holley Sniper and Hyperspark Ignition components. The Hyperspark ignition is designed specifically for the Sniper EFI so the integration details is already done for you.
Ps. The intake manifold I have on my Cleveland is an Edelbrock Air Gap dual plane and has a cutout in the divider between the two planes, which I have read is important to have when using a dual plane intake mani with the Holley EFI. The Holley Sniper EFI on dual plane intake mani's without the cutout in the divider can cause inconsistent fuel mixture issues between the left and right sides. Single plane manifolds do not have or need a divider and therefore do not have this issue.
lalojamesliz got a reaction from Mach1 Driver in My headlights have a haze
Late response but better late than never.
On newer headlights it's the clearcoat failing on the lense and making the yellowing/haze. If they haze on the inside then the lights are leaking water in and that's causing the internal hazing
have had this on other cars. What I did was put the headlights in the oven @ 200 degrees for about 10 minutes and separated the lens from the housing.
If your lucky it will have butyl sealant and the lense will easily separate. If your not lucky they will have something spawned from the depths of HELL called permaseal.
I used to do HID retrofits for my cars and friends cars. I've opened many headlights and the only permaseal headlights I ever wanted to do were ones on one of my cars.
While you open them carefully avoid getting any of the sealant on the mirror side of the housing.
soak your hands in warm water or give the little lady a break and wash some dishes to soften your hands. Fill a clean bucket with warm soapy dishwater like dawn and clean the lense and with VERY light pressure clean the mirror finish if you want. I usually make sure my hands are super clean and softened with warm/hot water then use my fingers to clean the surface
Rinse off then use distilled water for a final rinse. Use the corners of a dry paper towel to lift off any water drops.
Most of the time you can just reheat the lense and housing at the same temp/time and close it back up. If not just buy some butyl sealant.
lalojamesliz reacted to jmlay in Question about replacing radiator support and battery apron
Before you cut anything out My recommendation would be to make a detailed diagram & note measurements as well as cross measurements. These measurements will help determine if the car is currently strait & square, or if adjustments need to be made. ASSUMING everything is where is should be they will help you get the new parts in the correct position.
69 & 70 are the same dimensions. Measurement "H", in the diagram below is correct, however, they are measuring from the incorrect hole, it should be the hole in front of the tunnel brace. I would also measure the distance between the top of the aprons in multiple identifiable locations, inside bend NOT the holes. Then cross measure from the firewall to the front of the apron.
lalojamesliz reacted to Midlife in Anyone think a hydraulic press useful on these cars?
It's also a very useful torture tool to extract information.
lalojamesliz reacted to Caseyrhe in Anyone think a hydraulic press useful on these cars?
I've found it useful in compacting all the BS my boss keeps giving me, so some day soon, I can give it back to him to cram it up his ass
lalojamesliz reacted to 1969_Mach1 in Anyone think a hydraulic press useful on these cars?
I'd hang on to the press. You can do more with it than you think, and not just axle bearings. If you rebuild your own differential, it's needed, manual trans, it's needed, a simple distributor gear change or removal and installation, it's needed. Need to dimple a piece of thin wall tubing or thin sheet metal, the press can do it with a little creative setup. It will also straighten or bend thick steel pieces. Need to modify an air cleaner base so it drops down a little more, you can do that with the hydraulic press. Want to change out some rubber suspension bushings, the press is needed or at least makes the job much easier. So there are many uses for it, not just axle bearings.
lalojamesliz got a reaction from RPM in Anyone think a hydraulic press useful on these cars?
When I first got the press I was having a little fun with my younger son by crushing some little stuff like a water bottle plastic cap, a folded up shoelace and a small screw I think. I asked something about the press on the garage journal site and I posted how my son and i were having some fun with it and big mistake.
Those people don't have a sense of humor and were practically throwing stones for saying that... That's not a toy, you can get seriously hurt and so on.
Very helpful site but damn...
lalojamesliz reacted to 1969_FEStang in Anyone here use griffin universal fit rads?
This was discussed on the old FE forum. I do recall that the universal cross flows are quite a bit shorter than the stock rad.
lalojamesliz reacted to TexasEd in 70 Instrument Bezel Repro Quality - Std. Interior??
I recently had mine apart and decided to just install new lenses and black it out.