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lalojamesliz

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  1. Like
    lalojamesliz got a reaction from TexasEd in What did you do to/for your Mustang today?   
    Finally pulled out the original I6 250  a day ago and I just ordered some convertible inner rockers with the convertible seat pan. 
    I have a lot of support and motivation from my family to get this project done so Its all im focused on right now

  2. Like
    lalojamesliz got a reaction from Grabber70Mach in What did you do to/for your Mustang today?   
    Finally pulled out the original I6 250  a day ago and I just ordered some convertible inner rockers with the convertible seat pan. 
    I have a lot of support and motivation from my family to get this project done so Its all im focused on right now

  3. Like
    lalojamesliz got a reaction from Reaper69 in What did you do to/for your Mustang today?   
    Finally pulled out the original I6 250  a day ago and I just ordered some convertible inner rockers with the convertible seat pan. 
    I have a lot of support and motivation from my family to get this project done so Its all im focused on right now

  4. Like
    lalojamesliz reacted to JayEstes in Best way to prep interior for new paint   
    When I did my rebuild, I pulled out all carpet, seats, belts - everything I could unbolt.  After vacuuming and just cleaning it with usual stuff, I didn't have a lot of rust to deal with.  But there was a lot of seam sealer (which is like a semi-hardened tar that has body paint on most of it) around.  I didn't want to sand everything off and besides, a lot of the paint was in decent shape - why remove it?
    So what I did was the following: I got a 1in putty knife, some really tough PVC gloves, some scotchbrite pads, and a 5 gallon bucket of "clean-up thinner" (Laquer Thinner) from a local paint supply store.  After getting dirt off and isolating areas of rust, I used the putty knife to remove most of the seam sealer (60-70%% of which was either flaking off, or sticking to things it shouldn't be). Then, I used the scotchbrite dipped in a small bowl of thinner, to clean areas where the sealer had been removed and clean and rough up the painted areas.  Laquer thinner will remove the paint if allowed to stay on there very long, so I used it lightly, and would clean the surface, and rough it up with the scotchbrite, and immediately wipe it off with a rag so it didn't wrinkle the remaining paint/primer.  This left a really clean, primer ready surface.  This worked great for getting the remaining seam sealer off, and it got the paint prepped to receive primer over the top, leaving the good original paint/primer in place.  The use of a scotchbrite pad soaked in laquer thinner is the most effective cleaner I have ever seen, it cuts thru everything (oil/ grease, dirt grime, paint).  It is pure hell on gloves and hands, so get a couple pair of gloves as even a pair of PVC gloves will harden after several sessions of use. Obvious caveats go with this process for respirators and fans.  Laquer thinner is a strong chemical.
    After that, I just resealed the seams with orderly beads of paintable silicon caulk, and then I used rattle can automotive primer over everything.  Making damn sure not to paint over anything resembling rust or its semi-hidden effects.  I always ground any of that down and put the primer on bare metal once rust was gone.  
    I put on at least 2 coats of primer everywhere, then put down dyna-mat for sound deadening everywhere.  This was a fairly long process,  but a lot better than trying to remove everything (remember, in my case most of the floor was in good shape).  The floor looked great after this, and I think it was a nice medium restore option that left good parts of the car in place, but re-did everything else as best I could.   Trying to remove everything with anything less than a full-body dip is a ton more work than it is worth.
    Hope this addresses your question, and you find some of these tips helpful.  It wasn't super fast, but I was really happy with the results, and I felt like the effort was focused where it was needed.
  5. Like
    lalojamesliz got a reaction from JayEstes in What did you do to/for your Mustang today?   
    Finally pulled out the original I6 250  a day ago and I just ordered some convertible inner rockers with the convertible seat pan. 
    I have a lot of support and motivation from my family to get this project done so Its all im focused on right now

  6. Like
    lalojamesliz reacted to unilec in Best way to prep interior for new paint   
    Just bare in mind that the interior will mostly be covered with carpet and trim. Basically just clean the area of dirt, oil and paint that is flaky, sand any rust area's and apply a good primer. I hand painter the floor and other parts in my 65 fastback. 
  7. Like
    lalojamesliz reacted to RPM in Wilwood Master and plumbing?   
    I read on another site the WW master has the front bowl for the front brakes. When I did my manual brakes I used new lines, a 1993 Ranger? mc, and only the WW adjustable prop valve. My brakes work pretty darn well. 
  8. Haha
    lalojamesliz reacted to Mach1 Driver in Wilwood Master and plumbing?   
    Yeah, look at Bob's avatar- that's his car stopping !! 
    Pay no attention, I'm just jealous.
  9. Like
    lalojamesliz reacted to danno in Are tubular upper and lower control arms worth it   
    Yes, power seats that look like they came with the car.  I will add to me Christmas list for next year. 
  10. Like
    lalojamesliz reacted to johnmartin in Are tubular upper and lower control arms worth it   
    i like this seat ...
  11. Like
    lalojamesliz reacted to Mach1 Driver in Whats the difference with moog k8161 and a roller idler arm   
    It looks like you just have to go by the description- the Moog part doesn't say it has roller bearings, even though it costs more, and Opentracker does:
    Crafted to outperform OE replacements, Moog's idler arms are solid one-piece designs with all new hardware and grease fittings for serviceability. This durable design, coupled with the ability to flush out contaminants and re-grease the idler arm ensures that you'll not only restore your vehicle's performance, you'll also make it last much longer. Plus, Moog covers all of their idler arms with a lifetime warranty handled in-house here at DST.
    Improve the steering of your classic with an Opentracker roller idler arm. A roller idler arm reduces steering effort and allows greater feedback to the driver by keeping the steering geometry in check. Replacing the factory rubber bushing with  grease-able bearings maintains proper position of the center link as it moves from side to side. Manual steering cars will especially appreciate this upgrade as the reduced steering effort results in more precise steering input while cornering. Slow speed steering is also greatly improved making it ideal for street cars as well. Opentracker roller idler arms are made in the US.
     
  12. Like
    lalojamesliz got a reaction from RPM in What did you do to/for your Mustang today?   
    I read on another forum that a guy shortened them but it could have reduced the stiffness the add. 
    Maybe its something a cutoff wheel and my welder can fix. I'll find out.
     
    Glad your still around! I bolted that crossmember and it fit perfect Bob. I even lifted my front end and it worked as I hoped it will. 
    I'm a long ways away from installing that 408w but ill find out if it clears the pan I got for it.  
  13. Like
    lalojamesliz got a reaction from Mach1 Driver in What did you do to/for your Mustang today?   
    Finally pulled out the original I6 250  a day ago and I just ordered some convertible inner rockers with the convertible seat pan. 
    I have a lot of support and motivation from my family to get this project done so Its all im focused on right now

  14. Like
    lalojamesliz got a reaction from RPM in Intake and lifter galley gap   
    Nah lol
    I enjoy reading ALMOST everything here ha ha ha
  15. Like
    lalojamesliz reacted to Alan_Mac in 408w breather caps or   
    I have 1 PCV,  the other valve cover is plumbed to the air cleaner housing

  16. Haha
    lalojamesliz reacted to RPM in Intake and lifter galley gap   
    Anybody think Eddie minds that we hijacked his thread?  :)
  17. Like
    lalojamesliz reacted to latoracing in Open tracker reinforcement plates   
    The B302 gusset would be my first choice for reinforcements. Use poster board for your template and get it fitting like you want it. You can easily cut out your own plates from 1/8" material with a grinder / cut off tool. Your 140a welder should be able to handle this with ease.

    If you're wanting to do the big block style reinforcements it might be a little more difficult, but some 3/16" plate and some creative bending will result in quality parts. Fitting these pieces will take a large hammer to adjust various components, trim and tack weld in place. This thicker material may be a little much for your welder as you will have to run it wide open. Bevel all weld joints to help with the lack of penetration.

    A little grinding, and it will look better than factory.

    If you are wanting to go a little overboard, you can reinforce the UCA attachment area. More cardboard templates and 1/8" material will be needed to build your own. Fully welding all factory seams and using several small filler pieces to fill in the recessed areas then plating over all of it, fully welding all seams with added rosette welds in the middle, and re-drilling your holes, you'll have some pretty strong towers.

     
  18. Haha
    lalojamesliz reacted to Mach1 Driver in Intake and lifter galley gap   
    whats the area code so we can ALL call you?
  19. Haha
    lalojamesliz reacted to Midlife in Intake and lifter galley gap   
    Are you describing a hand job?  Hmmmm?
  20. Like
    lalojamesliz reacted to jmlay in Cooling Fans   
    Similar https://www.428cobrajet.org/forum/index.php?topic=27613.0
  21. Like
    lalojamesliz reacted to dbmac in I need to finish..... serpentine belt help   
    I have a 100 amp Tuff Stuff alternator with the CVF pulleys and it's been fine.  Squealed a bit until I tightened it up. So it's more about if you want to look old skool or new skool. CVF makes good stuff. Just pick the look you like.

  22. Like
    lalojamesliz got a reaction from Grabber70Mach in I need to finish..... serpentine belt help   
    I'm really liking the cheaper simpler one.  Thank you for showing me this. I wonder if it will work with the contour fans....
  23. Like
    lalojamesliz reacted to BuckeyeDemon in Help me choose a neutral balance harmonic balancer guys   
    I used ATI PN#: 917511AK.  it had the 3-bolt pattern pulley, 3" offset, 2pm timing marks (A) and was 0 balance. 
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ati-917511ak
     
  24. Like
    lalojamesliz reacted to MN69Grande in Help me choose a neutral balance harmonic balancer guys   
    Ford has one a dampener that can be neutrally balanced.
    https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6316-D302
    They also recommended the this flex plate.  Not sure what you should use if you are going manual and need a flywheel.
    https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/pma-pax30213/overview/
  25. Like
    lalojamesliz reacted to Thin Lizzy in 6mpg. Is that normal?   
    I've been driving the car around for a few days and it's better, guess I'm getting around 10-12 now.  At least I'm not seeing the needle move when I put my foot down.
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