lalojamesliz

Thanks for posting that picture. I'll start measuring. I'm a little worried since it had that accident a long time ago but it looks like the frame rails were left untouched. I've been thinking what's the point of my fancy suspension if the body isn't straight..... If it is good already, I planned to tack weld some square tubing in a X pattern on the lower frame rails and something across on top. Just to keep everything still. I need to get started before this damn heat gets worse today.

Well it's kinda disappointing they didn't make me get one. I don't have the best memory but if they would have told me they needed it I would have gotten it for sure. I paid the premium for a premium builder. I'm sure they assembled it good but I just wish they would have made me get it then. I wish I could remember what happened then. All I can do now is just wait for this one to arrive in a few days. I completely forgot to look for a replacement plate that goes between the engine and trans. I have the one from my c4 and 250 but I doubt that one fits my 4r70w. Ha ha ha something else to research

Mine are all beat to hell and instead of trying to fix them (I doubt I can) I'm just going to replace them. I just ordered them from CJ and I chose the better ones they carry. I don't understand why they sell cheap versions over almost everything and then a good more expensive version of the same part. Well, my question is can I start to remove the radiator support now along with the inner fender that the battery tray is on now and just get the area ready and wait for the parts to come or should I wait for the parts to have minimal time without those things holding the front end together? My mustang had a decent accident by the looks of it and whoever fixed it did a sloppy job and welded a lot of the radiator support and that battery apron together. So instead of some spot welds holding them together they are welded along the seam a lot of the way. It's going to be a PITA in other words and take a good long time. That battery apron has a good amount of rust as you can see in the picture and instead of cutting out and repairing I believe it will be much faster and end up with much better results by just replacing it

500 shipped Also have the 69 mustang disc spindles for sale

Now you tell me! Ha ha ha I sold it 2 hours before you posted that message on Friday. I forgot to check back because Friday was my wife's birthday and she had a actual list of things she wanted me to finish/do ha ha ha Hey Bob, you said you have a press right? Jk buddy haha

I'll check that when I receive the flexplate. Thanks Bob

So I dropped off the bare block and they ordered the rotating assembly that worked for the 9.48 block and it ended up being neutral balance. I can't remember for sure but they probably asked if I wanted neutral. I had the (and still have) I'll choose whatever is better way to choose things. The bad thing i learned about that is it requires deeper pockets! What were they supposed to do for me? I'm a bit lost on that. On a different subject, the flexplate I ordered will be here in the 5th! I guess they had one in stock. I really didn't want to wait till October

Ha ha ha! Jk ha ha

Im also a engineer...... Jk

I saw that too He said it's only going to be minimal increases but how much more?

I don't care much for originality, I'm looking at some crossflow radiators from griffin. These have dual row of 1.25" tubes and cost half of the direct fit replacement griffin. Why? Isn't 1.25 tubes why griffin rads are preferred?

I saw others but they aren't neutral balanced. What do you think of getting one of those and removing the weight and welds carefully. Do you think it will work? People have good luck with aod transmissions with this one but it's not neutral. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pma-pa26467/make/ford#overview it has a 2.5mm thick center plate. The other I was looking at also has a 2.5mm center but people were complaining about it cracking. the one I ordered has a 4mm I think. That might be a bad thing since I need all the space I can get but I'll just have to find out

I ordered the PAX30210 from summit racing. It's not in stock until October but I have plenty to keep me busy for now. I didn't order it from somewhere else because I love summit's return policy. So if it doesn't fit I'm good

I'm glad I saw this thread. I just ordered the tail lights, reverse lights and front daytime lights with gaskets and flashers and it was only $60 more than the Dakota digital tail lights after shipping and tax. I'll cancel my Dakota lights in the morning. It's morning now but I doubt summit is open at 1am pst I really like the led hot spots being hard to see and the option to use the sequential on the brake lights.

You have a manual trans right?

Anyone here have any experience with that starter?

I just want to get whatever will work and won't give me fitment issues and not push my converter to far in and destroy my trans. Should a flexplate from that mustang work? Do you think it can cause any other issues? Would the converter I have change what flexplate I need? To be honest, if I didn't already have a 4r70w and new fpa headers for it I would just go with a manual trans to avoid this headache and just teach my family on how to drive a manual trans. My wife told me to stop stressing and just get a manual trans and that she doesn't have to drive it. Then I told her that a new trans will be 5k+ for everything. She stood quite ha ha ha

I dug it out and I did another bone head move some time ago. I must have tossed away the flexplate. I'm sure it's because it wasn't a neutral balanced flexplate and that's what I need. It does have a 10" ptc aode converter though. I need to call ptc and find out what I can. Maybe they can suggest a flexplate

Yeah Shaun is a super nice guy to talk too. One reason why I chose his stuff is because you can just call him and tell him what you plan to do and he'll build a list for you.... Then take your money ha ha ha. Pricey for sure but all I ever see about his stuff is great reviews.

No, I just had the bare block and took that over to the guys at JGM. They ordered the rotating assembly and I took them the cam. They just built the shortblock. While searching for this online recently I saw someone say the trans is what determines the flywheel besides the weight requirement..... I keep seeing different answers and that's what confuses me.

My trans is buried in my garage now but later when it could down I'll dig it out and look up the flywheel it has again. on a different topic, I never put stickers on my cars. Period. I have a window sticker that has a wrench and it says built not bought. That will probably end up on one of my windows when I'm done. At least for a short while ha ha ha

Well I feel stupid x2 Thanks for pointing that out guys. The other reason I feel dumb is because I started to look at the instructions for my SOT coilovers and it says I need to drill through the bottom plate to get the export brace to line up Thanks for clearing that up for me guys.

I understand what your saying but the lower plates don't line up at all with the export brace. It looks as they just spot welded them on without lining up the holes from the shock towers and plates as long as the shock mounting hats lined up with the shock. The engine is not in the car yet.

I bought a scott drake export brace for my 69 and I've seen some stories of people having to use screw drivers to align the holes but my shock tower holes are no where near where I need them. These bottom plates need to be re drilled or removed and repositioned. Is that a common problem? The export brace kinda lines up wit the holes on the shock towers but it's the bottom plates causing the problem. My mustang has been hit on the passenger side front end but the driver side has the same issue so it can't be that.

So by cutting the weights off they become neutral/0? I thought those also would balance the flywheel like how tires use weights to fix any fitment issues The flywheel that was on my c4 trans (I-6 250 original engine) has no weights. It's neutral balance?