lalojamesliz

In your opinions, are arp studs for the oil pan worth it guys?

Thanks for the tip guys

I'm building my 351/408w with AFR 205 renegade heads and a 4r70w. I'm still waiting for my shortblock to be finished but I already bought a set of FPA headers. I can't tell you how they fit I'm my mustang yet but they bolt up to the heads fine. I was looking for a crossmember for my 4r70w and came across Joe persad's old threads. I emailed him and after some research i ordered his kit. He's a very nice and helpful guy. As always I had lots of questions as usual and he helped me with all of them.

This is why I was iffy about buying a kit for $100+

Thanks everyone, I didn't think that if I had a fitment issue I could just call them........ I didn't know I can just go on the site and just great a list! Thank you again guys!

Ah....one of the joys of engine building and beginning with ONLY a block ha ha ha

Hey guys, I considered a set of bolts for a 351w from arp but I don't like the reviews saying the bolts aren't always the correct size. I need the bolts for the timing cover, valve cover, water pump, water neck, fuel pump, distributor bolt with the hold down and oil pan. Any suggestions? I have stage8 locking header bolts, arp intake manifold bolts and arp oil pump studs for the pickup and pump to block.

This is why I had to get a distributor with a vacuum advance instead of a just mechanical type. I knew it would make a big difference

Ok, I'll see if you still have it when/if I need it. I was considering running without it but it does look nice

Thanks, I'll keep you in mind. What condition is it in?

I'll just play it as it goes. I'm getting the hood this Friday if everything goes ok and the engine will be in...... lol I've got a little time. I'm going to have some time off from my job so I hope to be able to use this time to get some serious progress done on my mustang

I'll give this a try first https://www.streetortrack.com/K-N-14-x-3-XStream-1-1-4-Drop-Base-Air-Filter-Assembly-pr-17469.html Thanks buckeyedemon

So I should be able to stay away from a cowl hood :D Oh, wait..... I forgot to mention I need to mount the TPS on my carb for the Bauman controller I'm getting. I wonder if the tps will fit with the drop base filter...

I don't mind cutting the hood, or the 14" dropped base filter would be better. Whichever one fits with less hassle and does not choke my carb for air is the one I want.... Correct, no choke

I haven't bought my motor mounts yet and I have a Holley 4150/prosystems 850 ish carb

I'm looking at purchasing a nice original MACH1 hood without the scoop since my hood is beat up on the front edge. I have a ford motorsports vic Jr intake that I'll use on my 408w and I was wondering if Its possible to cut out the area under the scoop so a air filter can fit with the hood closed. Something like this must have been done in the past if anyone here has seen it or knows if this will work. I really don't want a cowl hood. It's just not for me.

Yeah, I'll be home for the next 3 hours if you want to stop by, I have to work tonight

Just made a deal on a 7qt t-sump oil pan :)

ATI it is. Thanks guys

I'm finally getting my cam order from Chris straub (core delays) and I ordered a new set of springs from him since my heads have the wrong springs so I need to change those out. I wanted to get a spring height micrometer and some hardened shims but is that all I should need besides the spring compressor, spring locators, retainers and locks? I'm tempted to just have my engine builder do this but I need to learn!

I have my eyes on a few different double pass radiators. A champion radiator is looking nice

Still wondering if it's a must have upgrade for a agressive driven street car with little chance of strip.

I will. I just like asking more than one person and with all the knowledge here, I can't go wrong :)

I already bought the pump........ so what exactly is the problem? I didn't see anything about this issue when I searched for problems with this type of pump.

Just got off the phone with my engine builder and he told me I'll need a neutral balancer and flywheel/flexplate because the rotating assembly is internally balanced. That's good right? :) I wanted to use the 1969 stock crank pulley that's mounted to the balancer with 3 bolts instead of 4 but if I have to replace it with a 4 bolt then so be it. Any suggestions guys?