Hux

Not the best photo but full rebuild of the diff.  Sandblasted the housing then repainted in 2 pack satin black.  Same with the drum backing plates.  Everything new in the brakes.  Then a nice new centre, Strange modular centre and big bearing pinion with 1350.  cryo polished Motive 3.25 gear set, Eaton Tru Trac.
Any suggestions on renewing the rubber shielding around the handbrake cable?  MIne is cracking badly but the cable moves freely.
 

Not the best photo but full rebuild of the diff.  Sandblasted the housing then repainted in 2 pack satin black.  Same with the drum backing plates.  Everything new in the brakes.  Then a nice new centre, Strange modular centre and big bearing pinion with 1350.  cryo polished Motive 3.25 gear set, Eaton Tru Trac.
Any suggestions on renewing the rubber shielding around the handbrake cable?  MIne is cracking badly but the cable moves freely.
 

Thanks.  I left it neutral - no idea what it should be as its the big bearing version.  Not doing concours - make it look nice so you are happy when you look under the car I say!
 

Not the best photo but full rebuild of the diff.  Sandblasted the housing then repainted in 2 pack satin black.  Same with the drum backing plates.  Everything new in the brakes.  Then a nice new centre, Strange modular centre and big bearing pinion with 1350.  cryo polished Motive 3.25 gear set, Eaton Tru Trac.
Any suggestions on renewing the rubber shielding around the handbrake cable?  MIne is cracking badly but the cable moves freely.
 

Realise the value in the T-Bird and put a Windsor into the Mustang.  You can keep the T5 in it, its a DIY engine swap and changing the plugs will be a whole less pain.

Realise the value in the T-Bird and put a Windsor into the Mustang.  You can keep the T5 in it, its a DIY engine swap and changing the plugs will be a whole less pain.

Realise the value in the T-Bird and put a Windsor into the Mustang.  You can keep the T5 in it, its a DIY engine swap and changing the plugs will be a whole less pain.

Do you want rack and pinion or just a more modern version?  I bought Borgeson - yet to fit it but it looks quality
 

“A street car that reflects the classic 70’s Transam race cars - a compromise of factory appearance, power vs liveability”
To that end
1970 Mach 1 M code
Engine 408c with original but refreshed 4V’s. Aim is to look stock but have 450+
Shaker - bought a Scott Cook intake so I can run it
Close ratio toploader
3.25 LSD
Classic or Vintage Air
Stock interior but added factory tach dash and sports deck rear seat, LED dash lights
Running gear
Shelby UCA drop
QA1 shocks
lowered as much as I can bare - @ 2”
 
Stock exterior
Still unsettled on colour either back to Wimbledon white (original) or change to Calypso Coral as I really like orange as a colour
Got the wheels
Transam Race Engineering Minilites 17x8 and 17x9.5 with 245/45 and 275/40’s
 
Thats about it.  The aim remains tough Road car - I want to drive it around the country a fair bit 
 
 

“A street car that reflects the classic 70’s Transam race cars - a compromise of factory appearance, power vs liveability”
To that end
1970 Mach 1 M code
Engine 408c with original but refreshed 4V’s. Aim is to look stock but have 450+
Shaker - bought a Scott Cook intake so I can run it
Close ratio toploader
3.25 LSD
Classic or Vintage Air
Stock interior but added factory tach dash and sports deck rear seat, LED dash lights
Running gear
Shelby UCA drop
QA1 shocks
lowered as much as I can bare - @ 2”
 
Stock exterior
Still unsettled on colour either back to Wimbledon white (original) or change to Calypso Coral as I really like orange as a colour
Got the wheels
Transam Race Engineering Minilites 17x8 and 17x9.5 with 245/45 and 275/40’s
 
Thats about it.  The aim remains tough Road car - I want to drive it around the country a fair bit 
 
 

“A street car that reflects the classic 70’s Transam race cars - a compromise of factory appearance, power vs liveability”
To that end
1970 Mach 1 M code
Engine 408c with original but refreshed 4V’s. Aim is to look stock but have 450+
Shaker - bought a Scott Cook intake so I can run it
Close ratio toploader
3.25 LSD
Classic or Vintage Air
Stock interior but added factory tach dash and sports deck rear seat, LED dash lights
Running gear
Shelby UCA drop
QA1 shocks
lowered as much as I can bare - @ 2”
 
Stock exterior
Still unsettled on colour either back to Wimbledon white (original) or change to Calypso Coral as I really like orange as a colour
Got the wheels
Transam Race Engineering Minilites 17x8 and 17x9.5 with 245/45 and 275/40’s
 
Thats about it.  The aim remains tough Road car - I want to drive it around the country a fair bit 
 
 

She deserved to come out of the garage and take in the sun 

Sad isn’t it.  I am 2nd generation. My Dad didnt want my bro or I to join up but we did.  Now big bro has ticked over 39 years whilst I have only done 36. 
I wouldn’t recommend it to anyone really - even though 95% of people are very supportive and acknowledge the work done.  
It’s okay at the senior ranks when you are older not having to deal with the shit all day every day but its a tough gig for the young ones.
 

Thanks mate - I am really happy with how it turned out.  Just shows what a bit of patience can deliver even for an amateur like me.
Amazingly no I didn’t use panel clamps I have tried them in the past and found they dont work that well if there is any curve in the panel join area.  
I had a couple of grips holding it in position against the wheel house lip and then just used a bit of finger pressure to hold it aligned while I tacked off.  Once it was tacked off I let it hang naturally and then did the majority of the weld so it held a more natural position if that makes sense?

About 1mm at max.   
I find that I get enough penetration and its certainly strong enough a join.  
To finish I ground it down, used a 2” roloc flap disc to get it low and then hand file finished to the below picture.  
I think a very thin wipe with filler will be all it takes to have it done.
 
 

About 1mm at max.   
I find that I get enough penetration and its certainly strong enough a join.  
To finish I ground it down, used a 2” roloc flap disc to get it low and then hand file finished to the below picture.  
I think a very thin wipe with filler will be all it takes to have it done.
 
 

Long weekend for us....bit the bullet and fitted up a new quarter skin, went for a butt weld all the way around rather than flange it.   Used some marking out dye and a scribe to lay it out them a sanding disc to get the gaps nice.
I think there is only about 500 little welds to do and it will be solid steel.

Long weekend for us....bit the bullet and fitted up a new quarter skin, went for a butt weld all the way around rather than flange it.   Used some marking out dye and a scribe to lay it out them a sanding disc to get the gaps nice.
I think there is only about 500 little welds to do and it will be solid steel.

The parts you have are for the fold down seat so they go in behind the part you dont have.  You can see the cut out in them for the latch mechanism.  They are really only exposed when the seat is folded down.   There is another part which goes down below the rear window above the trap door area. 
 
It is more apparent when you see a picture of an assembled sports deck seat that is folded down.

Got bored with body work and felt the need to do something that made me feel like this resto would eventually be a driver so time to make something shiney.
So new carpet and new chrome trim (Dii Corvex) on the sports deck rear seat and now wrapped in bubble wrap and put away.
I could not get the carpet sitting nice on the floor piece that faces into the trunk - on the pre 69 they have the chrome trim.  Mainly as I have no way to staple steel at hand in reality.  Since the trim kit suits 65-70 I used the early piece to finish it.
The Dii chrome trim is actually nice, lined up with the existing holes quite well.  I would recommend it.

It will be great to see it fully reassembled with the new paints scheme.

I hope you are right Mike, but when you see what is now happening in Italy and that their health system is overwhelmed I think the strong approach is the right approach.  Panic buying is stupid though......there will be shortages but nothing critical.  If its gets really bad I will head out and knock over a few deer for meat.
 

I cannot wait to get my car done....I have minilites ready to go but they are 8x17 and 9.5x17 so I can get a decent performance tire at an affordable price.

Thanks Vic, there are some parts that are doing it tough but the nation is rallying behind them with massive community support.  There is some really amazing stories of kindness that reminds us that decent human behaviour is the norm and we shouldn’t be completely jaded by what we see on the nightly news reports normally.

Hi all
 
I thought this might help someone else in a similar situation.   Wanting to run a high quality electronic performance ignition whilst running a stock air cleaner like a factory shaker.Most performance distributors have extended shafts so the options from my research ended with something like Pertronix which get mixed reviews and the amazing work of some who modify the air cleaner lower box to provide clearance.
ICE Ignitions who are highly regarded in Australia for performance distributors didn’t list specs so I sent off an inquiry.  The response back from Michael was to contact him to discuss.  What resulted was two options - he could spec a billet body distributor to fit my requirements or I could send him my Autolite and he would essentially build a custom unit inside the original housing using a new shaft etc and supply with a cylindrical coil, 7mm leads etc and with remote mounting of the control box it would look like a factory unit but be the same as their performance units.
I haven’t ordered mine yet but given the local reputation within the performance world I do not expect any issues with any part of this.
So hopefully that helps others engaged in a similar search for options.