Hux

Sorry mate not the tail of gearbox but drive shaft. Might be the Aussie lingo difference that’s what a tail shaft is for us a tube with slip yoke to uni at diff.

Firstly thanks to everyone. This place is such an awesome community of interest on our 69/70’s and the knowledge base is amazing. i have a 70 M code so 351c 4v. Under restoration and converting from the leaky old FMX to a top loader. Scored a RUG-AG yesterday off the equivalent of craigslist. Seller threw in a tail shaft which is a 28 spline but he had no idea if it was for this box or a T10 he was also selling. so anyone able to share the length of what a stock tail shaft would be at all?

Thanks guys. Barnett thanks for the offer. I’ll see whether the space bothers me and make a decision after that.

Looking at converting auto to manual. What is the difference in the surround section - smaller/larger - can it be modified or do I need to buy a new section? thanks craig

Good and bad It’s tough but better than the alternative and the outcomes these days are so good ‘I have a bad family history so been monitoring psa since I turned 40. Dad had a prostectomy when he was in his late 60’s. he’s now 84 his brother was diagnosed in his late 50’s and had some chemical treatment and was dead in 10 years. ‘Wind back 9 years my best mate who was 45 was diagnosed. Went robotics like you and he recovered so quickly . Another good mate who lives regionally just had normal surgical removal - he has been doing it quite tough in comparison. ‘So if/when my turn comes i’m going robotic!!

Let me know what you end up wanting for it. I want to do the manual conversion. New pedal from modern drive lines is @$160 i will be in San Fran all next week no idea where you are?

Demon you need to look at some local sources maybe. TCI street fighter from VPW complete with TC etc is @$4k. Add another $500 for tv cable etc etc. vpw list a heap of aod’s From TCI and Prrformance Automatics.

So what is the best way to move the seat belt mount on the sill? Seems unless you have sills off it’s going to look ugly my thought for something relatively neat was drill a new hole in the sill to recess a captive welded nut which was on say 1/4 plate. Spot or seam weld said plate onto sill in the set back position.

Thanks all. Thanks for the tip on the seat belt issue. I’ll look at that. I’m going to run 3 pt but have stock to play with anyway. I will put in new floor pan holes and fill old ones as required so no issue -that is the easy part. I’m not too concerned over the weight issue the riser welds to the tunnel and sill as well as floor so there is a lot of weight distribution. To be honest I have not looked at how to modify the riser height but like all metal work it’s just measure cut and weld . Leg room first. Thigh height second! I’ll play with the seat belt position before I make any changes.

As I near the point where I am ready to weld in the seat riser I a, wondering about whether anyone has repositioned one. i am 6’5” or 195cm and solid - some may say “unkindly” carry a few extra pounds as well so the cockpit of the Mach 1 is not currently spacious. I have a new ds seat riser and thinking of modding it to drop it but wondering about also moving it back an inch and putting new holes in the floor on to suit? Any thoughts or issues with this approach? ps back seat space behind the driver is not a consideration to me

I hear you...tough decision. Get it on the road and enjoy knowing full well that it will be years before you do the full paint job or suffer some pain for 12 months and get it exactly how you want.... If he does a colour match you will have double spent in reality as it wont look quite right, you wont be perfectly happy, you will be able to see the mismatch in your mind and then you will have do a full respray however you will then have to pay to have the front end repainted again. I would (am) just sucking it up and doing it right the first time and (hopefully) saving money and pain.

I have seen on the West Coast Cougar site video of rebuilding standard trims. Being out of the US I have no idea whether Cougars ever had the deluxe style like the Mach 1. My trims are in good condition - except for the backing board. I am wondering if anyone has pulled the deluxe trims apart to see if they are the same as the Cougar style trims for attaching the top metal section etc. Current thoughts are that I will try and pull mine apart and make new backing boards on the basis that if it fails I have lost nothing bar the cost of some compressed fibre board. However if its been tried and it is 100% unsuccessful I can save myself the time and effort. Any advice appreciated.

Thanks all saves me dicking around measuring etc.

I will be in need of a repro hood as part of my rebuild - frame has been damaged from wet/salt sound dampener and is past rebuilding - it has numerous soft sections indicative of solid rust inside it. Here in Aus I can get hoods with no holes, or precut for a shaker and hood locks. I have a 70 Mach 1 with standard twist hood locks and the non ram air Mach 1 scoop. If I didnt want to cut holes in a stock good for the locks would my scoop cover a shaker cutout?

Hi all Doing a conversion using genuine parts. After the power brake pedal for a 70 auto trans please. Cheers Craig