Hux

So many of us don’t want to cut up the interior to mount speakers yet want some level of music when we are out driving. Has anyone else considered something like a Bose Sounlink Mini 2? - my thoughts were have an original radio in the car for appearance and just use the phone with a streaming service playing through a halfway decent portable Bluetooth speaker which could sit on the dash top with a bit of hook and loop tape holding it.

Welcome and good luck. Looks like lots of new sheet metal to come - but great to see you haven’t given up on it. Thats going to be a handful to drive at the limits - that much cubes will be 600+hp easy and that’s a lot in an unsophisticated chassis - these days 408’s are making 500hp with roller cams in streetable packages so you are going to kill that. I look forward to seeing the 6r80 go in. Thats going to be a nice choice.

There is no 69-70 toe board sections only generic. The shape of the indentation is different and it needs to be trimmed quite a bit to fit. But you can do it. Only specific option would be a full firewall which is quite a bit more $$

Thanks for the PDF its awesome

So below the body line there is really only a slight bulge out to the wheel arch?

Thanks guys. The subtle transition may be a difficult bit to form. On the off chance that anyone has say the last 12” of the front lower quarters out the quarter panel they have replaced and could supply I will actually be in Seattle and then San Fran between 19 & 27 Oct.

Thanks RR. Biggest problem is that no Australian stockists have the 1/4 panel skin which cover the lower section only fully quarters or the wheel arch section. Unfortunately the wheel arch section doesn’t go low enough so need to manufacture the last section of the arch.

Hi folks It may seem like a random question and I know if I went out and bought a profile guage (which I will) I could answer the question...but! Is the lower door profile pretty much the same profile as the front of the rear quarter panel ie the area between the wheel arch and the B pillar? I want to keep as much original sheet metal as possible on my 70 quarters - the lower front of the wheel arch is rusted and there is some old damage just behind the B pillar area so the original profile is a bit off to get an easy feel of it. My original door is beaten up on the front edge from an old crash so I can sacrifice the skin to the quarter patch as well. Mine is a Mach 1 so the mould will cover the lower section - mainly interested in the area above that lower body line.

That is one lucky son!!!

Thanks...looks like I’m on the look out for a good one.

Thanks - they appear identical to my eye. Anyone able to say if there is a difference?

Hi folks I stripped my quarter extensions off my 70. One is marked a 70 part number and is die cast metal. The other is a 69 part number and appears to be a plastic? I gather neither are orginal to the car as the boot lid is yellow under the bad red paint job. What are they normally - die cast or plastic or is it jus different between the years?

428 FE is cooler than a 408 Windsor lol

That’s looking great Rich

Realistically you need to pull under 4000rpm for 100mph in 5th. That is eas8ly achievable. Go whatever and it will work

That would be good to see. Mine is a 70

I didn’t know that. Thanks for the tip. I’ll be doing that for sure. I move seat platform back 2” I’m only 6’5”

Haha. Little doubt there with young Mike. the apple hasn’t fallen far from the tree

So Is the car otherwise original? really not sure what you are trying to achieve is it originality or power? M code was 300hp measured in gross flywheel no accessory load etc. if you want power you need to say how much more you want Is it an arbitrary 30p fwhP as that isn’t anything magical. I have never seen anything that discussed what an m code actually delivered or performed like when new. Why don’t you dyno the car and see just what the current combo delivers before worrying about it. With the Cam, intake and exhaust and it’s probably doing as well as the old stock combo. if you put on the 4v you will need blue thunder intake and a decent cam to wake it up and then be in for roller rockers new valves springs etc etc. & before you know it you’ve dropped $3-4k. And most people will be asking why you just didn’t put on a set of alloy 3vs good luck ps personally my M code is staying with the 4vs but with a 408 stroker kit and a SCM manifold so it looks stock but should run way over 400 fwhp with a relatively mild cam.

Why the patch panel MTF?

Get the sump off - only way you will see what’s come adrift. Something has gone wrong down in there and it will cost a lot more if you proceed to start up..

Pedal conversion to hydraulic master cylinder should be no different. Modern Driveline has the gear. I have not fitted mine yet but very nice - blend of willwood parts and their own from what I can see. Slave cylinder just do to the concentric slip on type - again Modern have them for top loader. I’m running Cleveland with Aussie bellhousing so it is a bolt on slave.

Is it a concourse show car? You will no doubt loose points for deviation if you do. Fold down seat, tach dash and shaker hoods are all desirable for most IMHO and although having them on the Marti would deliver best resale I bet no-one would ever pay less (except for the concourse car) if you had these on an otherwise original car (except I wouldn’t cut a genuine good hood). I am biased though as I am doing exactly this on my Mach 1 (70). I really wanted these features as its the look I love and I have sourced the genuine parts (except for the shaker) to convert it. Craig

Depends what diameter you want really! I’ve researched the heck out of this. If you don’t want issues 17*8 with 4.5” on front and 17*9.5 with 5.5” backspace running 245/45&275/40 17 is a solid wide tyre.

69/70 didn’t have it at all