Hux

Definitely not rare...just another M code Mach 1 in reality. Get those Mach 1 trims on so I can get a look at good it looks with them on!!!! What wheels are you doing...I have the Transam Race Engineering minilites...17x8 and 17x9.5.

Great news Randy. I will have some work for you this year for sure.

BTW after seeing your paint in colour I have flipped on whether I stay with the original white. I have always had a soft spot for the oranges...and as I am not staying true to the build sheet - adding shaker, tach dash and sport deck seat and converting to toploader (because that is what I want) I dont think the colour change will make much difference to the value.

RICH. Have you converted to a 69 front? your lower valance has indicator holes front guards look like they no longer have the front indicator hole

Rich this is what the Aussie bracket looks like

HI RICH Ford Australia used Saginaw pumps from @1979-1982 on the Aussie Falcon and Fairlane with 302/351c. There is not that many around and am currently hunting for one at a reasonable price myself. Some folks only want to see with the steering box which is of course RHD. I’ll let you know - the alternative I am toying with is the EV and hot rod folks all talk about about a particular electric power steering pump which is an Australian model only I think (GM Holden Astra). It needs only power no other extras to work and runs @ AUS $120 used.

I cannot wait to get my car done....I have minilites ready to go but they are 8x17 and 9.5x17 so I can get a decent performance tire at an affordable price.

I had to read deep to find the references on each page. 1. The Boss is coming 2. Come and see the boss at Nula Ford 3. The Boss is gone if you want one come and order it. Other than sales date period it would be almost impossible to ID a car unless they sold only the one Boss 429. I guess you could request Kevin Marti to search records for Nula Ford sold Boss 429’s?

It’s a bit like asking how long is a piece of string. So if you built the SCJ to the same standard as the CJ then yes the SCJ would be worth more. If you date code correct built a replacement SCJ engine it would be worth more. A SCJ body without an engine is not worth as much as a CJ with a non orig 428 in it. Or are you asking whether the SCJ body is different to the CJ body? Driveline and the VIN plate I think is the major difference with an external oil cooler for the engine from memory but I am sure there are some folks here with much better knowledge of whether there are subtle differences.

Bloody sad Mal. Vic, Not sure if I would call it a barren wasteland :-). But the reality is that the centre is pretty much all desert or close to it and its damn flat so no ranges catching weather patterns and rain. “Warning Weather Nerd” Australian weather is unfortunately one of always in extreme weather cycles - the La Niña/El Nino weather patterns dominate most of the northern half and there is a similar weather phenomenon that comes out of the Southern Ocean (which is what’s hurting us at the moment) One of our famous poets Dorothy Mackellar wrote “My Country” which pretty much sums up Australia.... I love a sunburnt country, A land of sweeping plains, Of ragged mountain ranges, Of droughts and flooding rains. ......

Thanks Shep - I had a 69 fibreglass version on the LH side that someone had done some very skilful shaping with filler on to replicate a 70 style however it was splitting off the base and is of course damaged at the very bottom like so many others.

I like this version. The cutting and bending of pot metal sounds fraught with hazard :-) I’ll have a look for Fiber Tech and All Metal.

Thanks Vic, there are some parts that are doing it tough but the nation is rallying behind them with massive community support. There is some really amazing stories of kindness that reminds us that decent human behaviour is the norm and we shouldn’t be completely jaded by what we see on the nightly news reports normally.

That is the only area that doesn’t fit well. It aligns well on the upper fender and quarter other than that one area. The inner area looks much the same as the OEM on the RH side. Unfortunately changing it is impossible - none in stock in Aus- we are not as lucky as you folks in the USA as to having large suppliers with lots of stock. Reality is this is a standard Taiwanese repop so imagine its just a flawed moulding design and anyone else using a repop would have the same issue. As the quarter in original I at least have an original line to run from. I’ll try a short strand fibreglass filler I guess.

Pot metal. So lead or something like Muggy Weld or the like is the only metal solutions

Hi team Unfortunately a rear quarter extension in Aus is not as common as the USA nor affordable so had to get an aftermarket (the prices on Ebay for a genuine with shipping from the USA was crazy). As you can see there is a significant difference in profile to the rear quarter (which is original sheet metal and undamaged). The actual difference is @ 10mm which in your would is about 7/16ths of an inch at its worst. So what filler would you think would be a good foundation for such a large build up...fibreglass, carbon or get some of that Muggy Weld type product and build up the actual area with some metal before final filling and shaping with normal Bondo type filler. Thanks in advance

I have the Mustang Market deluxe panels for a 70. Yes light grain vinyl, white plastic backing, quite good alignment of the holes for wood grain and stainless trim. You do have to mount the window felts yourself

Will there actually be enough area under the actual shaker for airflow into a dual carb setup?

Yes drip rail extension It is sold as part of the drip rail set.....expensive way to get them,...I have one that is crappy rusted and will have to rebuild it as there is nothing wrong with the actual spot welded rain gutters (drip rails).

As a foreigner (and a cop) looking in - is this actually for real?? How can you grant bail to someone arrested for breaching bail?????????? Thats not logical or safe. We have the revolving door of justice as well but surely this is fictional, its too bizarre to be true!!!!

Hi all I thought this might help someone else in a similar situation. Wanting to run a high quality electronic performance ignition whilst running a stock air cleaner like a factory shaker.Most performance distributors have extended shafts so the options from my research ended with something like Pertronix which get mixed reviews and the amazing work of some who modify the air cleaner lower box to provide clearance. ICE Ignitions who are highly regarded in Australia for performance distributors didn’t list specs so I sent off an inquiry. The response back from Michael was to contact him to discuss. What resulted was two options - he could spec a billet body distributor to fit my requirements or I could send him my Autolite and he would essentially build a custom unit inside the original housing using a new shaft etc and supply with a cylindrical coil, 7mm leads etc and with remote mounting of the control box it would look like a factory unit but be the same as their performance units. I haven’t ordered mine yet but given the local reputation within the performance world I do not expect any issues with any part of this. So hopefully that helps others engaged in a similar search for options.

You are a wealth of knowledge. That number is stamped on the driver side of the block just above where the bell housing mates. Casting date is about 6 weeks before programmed build date. 22 Oct to early Dec (from memory programmed build was @ 6 Dec). Thanks for the tips on the gasket services - that will have to wait until disassembly but its great info

Thanks - so that answers part of the question...yes that number is stamped upside down, guessing that is not correct.. projected build from memory was very early Dec 69. Once I get the engine out I can give it a proper go over - but is that the correct location for a factory engine number on a 70? Mine is 144374 so its a different number. I don’t have anyone local with a 70 M code to even compare to - its the opposite end of the world here in Aus!

So this has me perplexed. Car is a 1970 M Code build date was 18 Dec 1969. 0T05Mxxxxxx is the vehicle VIN which is what the car is a Metuchen built Mach 1. I found this engine number stamped into the engine block on the LH side just above the bell housing area. The stamping reads to me as 0A14704 which would make it an Atlanta assembled car - so probably a Torino? Engine as fitted Is an M code Cleveland engine and is except for the carb completely stock - right down to the manifolds. It’s very much a virgin engine with even the OK in yellow faintly visible on the rocker cover. Appearance matches the odo of @ 90,000 miles. The casting dates of the engine are 9K18 on the block and 9K22 on the RH head so a late OCT casting would be fairly much right for the build date of the car. It has me slightly confused - if someone had blown the motor what would be the chance that you could find a donor that was that close to car build date? It’s not like my car is highly desirable for options and was a fairly low option car - could it have been something at the dealer where they have had to do a swap out for warranty. It would seem improbably that engine numbers were stamped other than at Metuchen . Or is that not a genuine Ford engine number stamp? I cannot find an engine number stamp anywhere else so far. I would love to hear so thoughts.

So you rerouted the fuel line down the tunnel? Where are the brake lines now or are they in the same sleeve?