napedVem

I'm rebuilding the power steering control valve on my 69. The tubular end that mounts it to the drag link is wallowed out. If anybody has one available to sell or a whole unit, please let me know thanks

Good evening all, I'm a new member coming over from the Jeep community.
 
I picked up a '69 with a rim blow. The rubber tape and contacts are missing but it has a center horn button w pony/tri-bar in the middle of the foam pad that works. I haven't seen anywhere that there would be both. I'd like to get the rim going but wondering if I could keep the center button working too. It's wired to 2 of the screws behind the pad. Was this factory?
 
Thanks!

Does anyone have a 351C in their 69' with power steering & a 4 speed? If so, what headers did you use?

Here is my new Hood Scoop Badge. Got it at http://www.billetbadges.com It was not cheap but something I really wanted to set things off and be different.
 

Thinking of switching to the 70 hood twist pins.  Do they use all the same holes?

Okay my friend and I both have 69 Machs with drop coils that have both had a bit cut off of the and Koni shocks.
My buddy began to notice his car was riding very rough in the front end on the pass side, so he pulled the shock out, and it seems to be busted, adjusting the shock makes no difference in the rebound or compression, so it is toast.
 
When we installed the cut coils and shocks on both our cars we noticed that the shocks are compressed a good bit more than what one would normally see from a gas charged shock.
I would estimate that there is only about 1 1/2" of the travel until you bottom the shock out.
 
So this begin said, has anyone ever had to use a shorter shock that would allow the shock to be extended more and give more travel?
 
Just seems that we may be past the safe working range of these stock length shocks

Hi,
I want to fit inertia reel seatbelts to the rear of my 69 fastback (Will be engineered). Could I get some advice on how others have mounted the reel at the rear. I have had a look and think I know where would be best but am interested in what others have done.
Thanks, Mal.

Here's a C/L link with contact info to a fella I bought a couple parts from he will ship if you prepay. Do a google search in parts for sale Seattle Area he has about 20 ads running he does an accurate description with lots of photos.
 
http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/5970829578.html

When I bought this car a couple months ago engine ran fine at 800 rpm idle in gear 1100-1200 rpm in neutral, instant throttle response. I wanted to get the idle down to around 900-1000 rpm in neutral. Did all the correct steps from start to finish I thought set timing to 8^ no vacuum hooked up, set floats to just under halfway in the float window, warmed car up adjusted low idle have 14-15 vac while idling. Re-timed it to 8* at 1000 rpm, re-set low idle, hooked vacuum back up 3000 rpm 34 * timing.   
 
Now it seems while idling in neutral it surges between 900-1200 rpm when I put it in gear drops down to about 700 rpm then will surge & sometimes die. Took it for a quick test drive runs great above 1500 rpm good throttle response come to a stop 50% of the time it idles fine 50% rpm surges or dies.
 
Setup is 351W , FMX trans , Holley Street Avenger 620 CFM , Holley Dominator  manifold , Comp Cams 268 , Pertronix Ignitor 
 
Any ideas of what to check next? I'm going to rebuild carb what would be correct jetting & kit for this setup.
 
 

I need to make a coil to distributor wire and purchased a couple of terminals (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BWD0/CT509/N0607.oap) and distributor boots (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BWD0/CT512.oap).  I ran into an issue when I realised I have no idea how to crimp this particular terminal to a wire.  I could not find any instructions online either.  Anyone have an idea?

Hey guys it's been a while!
 
Cars been running well, especially after we threw in the limited slip and left the timing how we had it in Denver, lays down some sweet 11's haha..
 
Anywho, I'm tired of my hokey tranny cooler setup and I really want to run a new setup from the tranny to a new cooler new lines new cooler the whole deal. I can pick out the cooler thats not an issue, my issue is what lines and fittings do I need? What kind of lines do I use? I currently have a newer set of factory repop hard lines. I want to have as few connections as possible, to lessen the possibility of leaks. I HATE leaks...😡
 
Thanks guys!

I bought and installed an export brace and Monte Carlo bar today. The export brace is Scott Drake, good quality and fits well. The monte Carlo bar isn't Drake and is filmsy garbage, the holes aren't even in the right location. The Monte Carlo bar is listed as fitting 65-70. I see others that are specific to 69-70. Does anyone have one you like that fits well? I don't want to waste money on more junk.
 
Thanks,
 
Matt

Looking for a descent used pair....please send pic/price.  Thanks.

Installed my steering column and there is a gap between the end of the column and the rag joint. If I connect the 2 together, it looks like the rag joint is not on the steering box well enough. Any thoughts for fitting? Move the C clips on the opposite end of the column?
 
Anyone have a photo of theirs?

Quick post to show the install I finished today. I searched for months to find a serpentine system that met my requirements:
Black coated pulleys and brackets Compatible with mechanical fuel pump Compatible with old style timing chain cover Power steering pump that can be used with Borgeson steering conversion Black A/C compressor that can be used with Vintage air Black 140 amp alternator  
I got this from CVF racing, in Minnesota.   I am extremely happy with the quality, instructions, and service from them.
 
The only changes I made with my engine was to switch to a flexible dip stick, reverse rotation water pump and a 90 degree thermostat housing.
 
The picture shows the current setup, which is for my engine break in.  So, the power steering pump is not hooked up, and I used a shorter belt and took off the idler pulley for now.
 
CVF has a lot of combinations for just about any type of Mustang engine.  I have no affiliation with them, but I highly recommend their stuff, especially at the price they sell the system at.
 
 
 
 

Its a few months out, but if you are not far from Pennsylvania, the Carlisle show is a good one to go to.  Lots of Mustangs there, and a large amount of stuff for sale.
For you Shelby Fans, it is the 50th anniversary of the GT-500, so there will be some of those there.   For Cougar fans, this is the 50th anniversary of the Cougar, so there will be XR7-Gs and GT-Es. 
And if you are a "Y" block fan, it is the 60th anniversary of the 1957 T-Bird.
 
Here is the link.  I'm taking my 1968 and meeting my cousin who is bringing his '56 Y Block 5 speed car.  Should be a blast.
 
http://www.carlisleevents.com/carlisle-events/carlisle-ford-nationals/default.aspx
 
 

Anyone have a clue what is done to make the coyote fit inside the frame rails? my 4.6 had no issues at all, this simply is too wide at the headers. 
Also will 4.6 shorties bolt up to the coyote? I have a set of those here.
 

just got my coyote for the 69 mach, so i have a box with so many connectors and stuff,
anyone have a diagram as to where anything goes?
 

I ordered my stripe kit thru CJ's, officially licensed ones. They are made by Grafic Express. Once installed, several small blemishes were noticed on the passenger rear, pictured. I contacted CJ's with the issue and attached pictures. CJ linked me with express and in three days I had my replacement. No hassles.
That doesn't happen to often these days

What's a car like this worth....in basket case condition, missing most parts, with typical rust. are they worth rebuilding. are folks still looking for projects like this? Not really wanting to build it, since I already have one done., but may purchase to resell here if the market supports....Your honest thoughts welcomed. Thanks.
also have short marti report. clear title.
 






 

https://youtu.be/MykNy8e5boM
Shelby 500 transformation

OK everyone, this is a weird one.
I am getting an oil drip inside the car. There are only two things I can think of and wonder whether anyone has had a similar leak.. Is it possible that the oil can leak from the speedometer cable... that is that gear oil from the transmission could travel up an be forced out?
 
Has anyone had oil come through the brake booster from a leak there and had it drip into the cockpit?
 
Kinda weird, I know.. just wondering before I tear my dash up
 
thanks all
 
christian

I purchased the Total Control Product front coil over suspension kit.  I've watch the 2 youtube videos a couple times each and have gone over the instructions with a fine tooth comb. 
The issue i have is the strut rod they supplied is pushing my lower control arm too far back toward the rear.  Ive tried pulling my camber all the way forward and maxed out the strut rod to the minimum length and still does not line up the lower control arm.  I cannot even get the verishock to go inside the aluminum mount.
Ive measured everything out, check and double checked part numbers and everything seems to be correct.
TCP right now is kind of shrugging their shoulders as they don't have an answer for me.
 
All the metal on this car is factory original

Thought I would post one of my side-projects for my 1970 Convertible.  I want to put speakers in the front kick panels.  The pictures below show my steps.  My rationale was that I have a Convertible and it is an A/C car, and the 1970s have the flow through ventilation grills in the door sill.  So.....I will have plenty of fresh air, but need some tunes.    I will be running a Boss power amp, rear speakers and subwoofers off of my Boss DIN 1 flatscreen head unit.  I installed Kicker 5-1/4", 40CS54 Speakers.   The "CS" series are low profile, and fit nicely.
 
First step was to get an extra set of kick panels.....just in case I want to return to original. Next, was to get some MDF from Lowes, and make a template the same shape as the vent box, and also, the hole for the speakers. Cut the MDF shape and speaker hole, and painted it black Cut the cable going to the vent door, and secured the door with a sheet metal screw Sprayed undercoating on the outside of the vent door, and the area where it seals to the air box Added dynamat on the inside and outside of the vent box Put the BoomMat speaker baffles inside the vent box.  Routed the speaker wires through the BoomMat and through a hole in the airbox, sealed with RTV Mounted the speakers to the MDF, and the MDF to the airbox Took new kickpanels and used an X-Acto knife to carefully trim the vent louvers out of the kickpanel Looked forever on EBay and Amazon to find speaker grills that I liked and were the right diameter, and could be mounted.  They have an inside "ring" that gets screwed to the MDF, and the grill is press fit on that ring Pictures below.  Not sure how it will sound, but will be fun to find out!

Just joined and this is my first post of my wife's 69 S code.
Bought it over the net from a police officer in Virginia, tells me the car is virtually rust free.
Rear tail light panel , trunk floors, quarters,front floor pans and front torque boxes. Has the 69 shaker hood on now.
Certainly learned my lesson on trust!!!!. Numbers matching and has a 4.30 detroit locker from new.
Cut the roll cage out of it and now is progressing well.
I will have plenty of questions to ask.
Here is a few pics and now it's a lot further down the track to being finished