napedVem

Could some one post a pic showing the routing of the front wiring harness.
Checking mine last night and it has some nasty crap repairs done.
Mine is a mess where the alternator wiring goes to the solenoid and voltage regulator.
Thanks
Walt

My car is not getting power to the rear of the car. And I don't know what happen because it was working until I was putting some bolts back into the lower dash. So the light above in the cabin and the taillight don't get power.

Hello everyone! I can't believe I didn't find this forum until now, I notice a few of the members here from my instagram account (@grabherblue69) !
Anyways, it's a little late to post too many picture from the past build - but I'll give you a quick rundown of the history of this car and where it's at now before I start giving incremental updates.
 
This was my father's first car when he was in high school in the late 70's - just a normal fastback with a 351W in it. It was wrecked in the front end and he paid $200 cash for it... Him and his two brothers as well as their father all had fastback mustangs! Later, their father (my grandpa) built a local family shop and the father and the 3 sons have ran it since, however my grandpa is getting pretty old and doesn't do any of the work there anymore. (It's called Ray's Garage.)
 
Back to the car - we care nothing about originality in our family. Dad went through about 6 motors in this car in high school, either blowing them up or wanting more. After the 351, all of them were big block FE motors. Additionally, they bought and sold mustangs all the time and Dad always swapped the parts he liked off of them before they were sold (sorry all of you original car owners out there who are confused as to why the rear sway bar is missing or the wood grain interior!). This thing has all the "'cool stuff" - fold down rear seat, Mach 1 Woodgrain Deluxe Interior, a nice console, a rear sway bar off of a Boss 302, front discs, and so much more. It sat outside for about 10 years before he handed it over to me to start working on, completely rusted out with a 390 that barely ran and tons of problems.
 
The plan: Do whatever you want to it that you like and make it yours.
 
As of now here is a list of what has been done to it:
 
-Lots of new metal - hood, doors, tailgate, taillight panel, and some other minor metal work. 
- Bodywork and paint - Grabber Blue!!! (1970 Color, but like I said, screw originality for this build.) Dad was a bodyman for about 10 years before becoming a full time mechanic - he did the spraying and I did all the bodywork myself. Not perfect at all, simply painted it to be a driver's car. 
- Stereo somewhat in progress - Small sub in the panel that goes to the trunk and new JBL speakers in the front/ rear. Also a kenwood single din headunit up front that doesn't jump out at all. 
- All new interior
                      - Recovered the front deluxe seats but instead of a red mach one stripe I got it done in blue.
                      - 80mil sound deadening throughout the whole floor plus new mass-backed carpet. 
                      - New-ish deluxe woodgrain door panels, much nicer than the ones it had before.
                      - Refinished the console and put in a new dash pad
                      - Lots of other minor details
- Somewhat mild 428 build
                      - Block: Granpda said "You can have whatever that is over there in the corner" - Turns out to be a 428 with a CJ crankshaft and pretty 390GT heads
                      - Bored .40 over, New forged pistons (11ish to 1 compression ratio with the 390gt heads, will be about 10.5:1 or less with Edelbrock heads that I want sometime in the future)
                      - Edelbrock Cam, .572 Intake and Exhaust - Soon to put in new valve springs to go alone with that
                      - Some Edelbrock aluminum intake
                      - Tons of other extras that aren't important enough to note here - plans for small nitrous shot one day.
                    
- "Boss 428" stripes because me and my father both LOVE the Boss 302 reflective stripes for '69, however I felt like it was a shame to have "Boss 302" on the side and then a 428 in it so I got a custom set made up.
- Again, tons of other things that aren't worth noting now. Any questions just ask!
 
Currently has been running and driving for a while now, just not where it needs to be. Lots of work left and will always be an ongoing build. It has an FMX auto in it as well! 

Members are concerned about the Russian invasion and getting unsecured password notices here.

I am looking for a passenger 69 coupe extension with holes for the deluxe molding. Must have no cracks in it.

Pulled positive off battery while motor was running, engine died. That tells me it's not charging based on how I tested alternators back in the day. Had alternator tested--good, replaced voltage regulator, still dies.
Checked all wires on alt harness for condunuity- all good. Tach Mach, 4 wire alt, 4 wires going to voltage regulator.
What's next?

Would anyone know of a good assembly manual for my 70 Mach 1?
Thanks,
Bill

Bought my first Mustang when I was 17 for $200.  The car was a ’69 hardtop that had been re-painted (badly) neon green with a dark green hood.  Being honest the car was a “beater†but it ran good and with a 302 and  3 speed manual it was fun to drive and always got me where I needed to go (and back). Always liked that car and still have fond memories of it to this day.  Didn’t buy another Mustang for more than 20 years when I bought an ’88 LX with a 5.0 and a 5 speed to use as a donor car on my Factory 5 Cobra build.  Easing into semi-retirement now after a lifetime of Camaros and Corvettes and looking for a ’69 or ’70 Mustang fastback to add to my current stable and give me something new to work on and keep me busy.

So I decided it was time for a change. I let the Mach1 go and picked up a new project, a 74 F100 shortbed with a 390. So off to the truck forums I go.
 
But I couldn't leave without saying goodbye and thanking you guys. This is a great forum and I wish you all the best.
 
Randy.

The Cherry Ave .Auto swap meet is this Saturday come on out .I will just be walking through this time

I'm in the process of stripping my car for it's complete resto this year. Hope to have it painted by the end of this Summer. Doing a lot of planning and research on the assembly and parts, as it will be somewhat of a resto mod. In this, I am considering this Ford Contour dual fan set up in my build. Seems several have done that here but those whom have have not posted in a few years. Wondering if there is anyone here still posting that has done this? If so, how did you wire it in?

Yesterday I had the engine dynoed and reached my goal of 500 Hp. We had 11 runs and the highest Hp was 520, the highest Tq was 489.7. Vacuum was 11-12â€. Run was on 91 octane, Initial 12 all in at 32. Lost only a couple numbers dropping timing to 9.5.

The attached Dyno sheet was done with a 1†spacer, that had the highest Tq reading.

351C 2 bolt main stroked to a 408, Quick Fuel 780 Vac Sec, Comp Cam 602/574, 235/241 @ 50, lobe sep 112, SCAT Rod I Beam Chev 6.000, Race Tech Pistons 20 cc, SCAT Crankshaft Ford 351 Cleveland Series 9000 Cast Crankshafts, CHI 4V Aluminum Heads, Comp Cam Rockers Ultra Pro Magnum XD, Comp Cam Dual Valve Springs 165 @ 1.800 & 385 @ 1.200, Edelbrock RPM Air Gap Intake 7564, Water Pump Flow Kooler, Cloyes Timing Chain True Roller, Distributor MSD 8577, Morel Roller Lifters, Moroso Pick Up 24558, Melling Oil Pump M-84AHV, Tim Meyers -DuraBond Cam Bearings F-26G, Sanderson Shorty Headers.

Since the intake is a 4v/2v version, we ported the intake to match the CHI 4V heads. I went with the CHI 4V's because 3V's would not allow the use of my Shaker Hood Scope.

I would have had a little more gain if I tested with long tube headers.

As the title says I am wondering if my only solutions to removing the rear leaf spring front bolt that is rusted to the metal sleeve inside the bushing is a sawzall with metal cutting blades, or an angle grinder with a steel cutoff wheel?. I went to remove the rear leaf springs today only to find the front mounting bolt will not move. The nut came off fine, but the bolt is a no go, will not even turn. :( Any ideas or suggestions?.

I have Bigs (4150) 950 Stage 5 carb and think it is too big. No bog or anything just not as responsive as it should be.  It has been tuned with an innovate.  I am thinking either a Quick Fuel 750 with MS or a 780 with VS. I also want a choke. Here is my application. 

Street warrior 
1970 Mustang Mach1 (likely around 3500 lbs with a full tank and me in it)
6200 RPM Max 
418W
AFR 205's
10.5:1 compression
Lightweight forged rotating assembly
Custom roller cam split duration @0,50, intake 219 exhaust 239
Mildly ported and flow balanced performer RPM intake
TKO 5 speed 3.27:1 first gear
3:50 rear 

Recommendations from carb experts requested!  
Alan

Solenoid and the large starter terminal on the mini starter...70 Mach 1....thanks in advance

Hey all,
 
My engine has started making some dreaded knocking noises which I am fairly sure has to do with worn bearings(Crank/Connecting Rod). I have previously taken the oil pan off and know there is more play than there should be in some of the connecting rod bearings. We purchased another car just in time for this one start to break down so I can actually work on the mustang and not worry about how I'll get anywhere thankfully. 
 
I am looking at doing a rebuild of my bone stock 302 small block. I have 2.5" exhaust with a C4 behind the engine. currently it has a 2bbl intake and carb, but will probably upgrade that. The car is mostly just for crusing and I am slowly working on things.
It was "rebuilt" when I bought it, though clearly not very well. when I bought the thing I didn't know enough to realize how bad it was done. 
While I am rebuilding the engine I would like to possibly add a little more budget performance. I am looking to stay in the $900 range for the rebuild not including any machine work that may need to be done due to the failures in the engine. 
Specifically, what are your thoughts on boring it out?
I have just started looking into rebuild kits and different components so any advice/suggestions are appreciated! 
 
Thank you!

Just finishing up a 70 and need blue seatbelts or at least a decent set to get restored...thanks...John

Okay so this is a product that we use at work and I recently saw on their website where a guy had restored a car using this stuff, so figured I would post it up and see what everyone thinks.
Here is the link.
 
http://www.zrcworldwide.com/products
 
I am thinking about getting some and using it on the underside of my 66 after I make all metal repair and blast it, but If it would provide additional protection under the paint and body work I wonder if it would be worth doing, and if it would be okay to use under whatever paint I was going to use

I am looking for a set of 1970 through 1973 front drum brake hubs with 5 lugs.   This is needed to complete my front brake build for my 1970 convertible, which will use 2004 Cobra front brakes and the Mustang Steve brackets.  I have the spindles.   Thanks!

I'm planning on getting the 428 water pump rebuild kit from dead nuts. Does anyone know how these Bearings come apart? Also, after taking off the back cover, I noticed there is a hairline crack in one of the bolt holes. Should I be worried? My feeling is if I RTV the back cover, it should seal up fine.

Building a 302 roller engine and after emailing Comp Cams about what I was looking for they suggested I get the 35-430-8.
 
I will be running an 8.8 rear with either 3:55 or 3:73 gears.  Hopefully will be putting a 4R70W in at the same time and will probably use an F150 torque converter which I read somewhere has a 2400 stall.
 
I will be mostly cruising with the car but hoping to get into a little bit of road racing. 
 
I have long tubes, 1.6 roller rocker arms on mostly stock heads (a little porting), and ran a Holley 600 carb in the past.
 
My question is, would the Ford E303 cam be an ok cam?  I am broke right now so looking to get by a little cheaper than the Comp setup and I found an E303 for $100.  I have read quite a bit about the Ford E303 and it seems like it would suffice but wanted more opinions.

Walked outside this evening, just in time to catch a nice pic of a funnel cloud directly over the house .

Does anybody have 15x10 Magnum 500s on the back of their Mustang?  If so, any pics and what did you have to do to get them to fit?
 
david
 

Anybody had any luck with these from CJ's. I fought with one side for an hour plus and could not get it to fit correctly. Ended putting the originals one back in with their cracks and speaker hole cutouts.

https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/pts/6003835662.html
 
posted today