ncdruroSor

Okay so this is a product that we use at work and I recently saw on their website where a guy had restored a car using this stuff, so figured I would post it up and see what everyone thinks.
Here is the link.
 
http://www.zrcworldwide.com/products
 
I am thinking about getting some and using it on the underside of my 66 after I make all metal repair and blast it, but If it would provide additional protection under the paint and body work I wonder if it would be worth doing, and if it would be okay to use under whatever paint I was going to use

I have watched the video on the WCCC website, but one thing I'm not clear on. All 4 of my brackets have been stripped clean in the glass channel. Currently there is quite a bit of room on both side of glass in the channel. When placing the glass in the brackets to glue up;
1) do I first need to buy/install the 1/16 rubber into the bracket that NPD sells?
2) just use more glue, like I believe he states in the WCCC video
 
Then after glueing, does the glass need to have equal distance between both top edges of brackets?
Or ??

Hi Everyone, 
 
I'm trying to figure out the correct speedo gear for my 69.  It seems that I have seen a formula to determine the correct gear but I do not remember where or when I saw.  Listed below is the key information if that helps.
 
FE 390 stroked out to 445ci
 
T-5 transmission
 
3:50 Pos rear end
 
No A/C
 
Weight - approx 3400 pounds
 
Thanks Mark 

I'm planning on getting the 428 water pump rebuild kit from dead nuts. Does anyone know how these Bearings come apart? Also, after taking off the back cover, I noticed there is a hairline crack in one of the bolt holes. Should I be worried? My feeling is if I RTV the back cover, it should seal up fine.

I don't know if this ideal has been posted before, but this is what I came up with and it worked like a charm.
When reassembling my Mach from the previous owners magnitutude of boxes, the vents where missing the felt that keep the directional balls from moving freely. Not having any luck finding replacement felt, I came up with this. Purchased some Velcro, only using the felt side, cut to outside diameter of ball and dry fitted in vent with adhesive backing still on. After marking and cutting to the exact length, removed backing making the seam at the top. I then installed the vent ball. Felt keeps the vent ball in place

I am looking for a set of 1970 through 1973 front drum brake hubs with 5 lugs.   This is needed to complete my front brake build for my 1970 convertible, which will use 2004 Cobra front brakes and the Mustang Steve brackets.  I have the spindles.   Thanks!

With the exception of the dang speaker, my original dash is in pretty good condition. I was meticulous in taking care of it over the years but could not stop the speaker area from cracking out. A few years ago I put a dash topper/cap on the dash of my 86 F150, which also had the speaker area cracked out. I was  very impressed in how it came out and it still looks good today. You cannot tell it has been capped. I'm likely not going to go that route, but was wondering if anyone here has done that to their 69 dash and can comment on the matter?    

The track width is that much wider. The wheel mounting surface is outside the plane of the 67 body...

Building a 302 roller engine and after emailing Comp Cams about what I was looking for they suggested I get the 35-430-8.
 
I will be running an 8.8 rear with either 3:55 or 3:73 gears.  Hopefully will be putting a 4R70W in at the same time and will probably use an F150 torque converter which I read somewhere has a 2400 stall.
 
I will be mostly cruising with the car but hoping to get into a little bit of road racing. 
 
I have long tubes, 1.6 roller rocker arms on mostly stock heads (a little porting), and ran a Holley 600 carb in the past.
 
My question is, would the Ford E303 cam be an ok cam?  I am broke right now so looking to get by a little cheaper than the Comp setup and I found an E303 for $100.  I have read quite a bit about the Ford E303 and it seems like it would suffice but wanted more opinions.

I'm looking for a dizzy with a 8K or 8L date code.

Very Cool video!
 

 
Ford's Drag Team of the 60's has 69 Mustangs with a 428SCJ and 427SOHC Awesome vintage drag race footage.

As I have been working on getting this chassis ready for bracing yesterday, I needed a way to keep the poor thing a little more stable. With the rocker out of it makes it impossible to hold it still without welding something in it's place. So instead of welding / fastening a temporary brace in the car, I chose to just temp install the parts that will be installed. Interesting concept, but at least I'll know that they will fit. The car came with some replacement pieces that could be used, like the inner rocker. This part came from the factory on the long side in order to make all the tabs and connecting flanges manually. Starting with the given point of 22" for the rear wheel well area to the seat belt hole, I made the appropriate tabs out of the extra material and bent them in their proper direction and angle. The Weld and Sealant manual is a good reference for the direction of the tabs, not so much on the size or location. I seem to be doing a lot of inner rocker installs as of lately, practice makes perfect lol
 

 
Fitting it in the rear torque box area and over the floor reinforcement piece required a little persuasion as the rear of the car was moved up, kinda neat how much it moves vertically. Getting the inner rocker to fit correctly took a bunch of clamps and some strategic hammer blows to get it situated. Surprisingly enough, it went in and was level (measuring level at the middle top portion) just like the other side. The old part does have surface rust that will be taken care of before it is welded in place. 
 

 

 
When I built the table, the second crossmember was measured and placed to align with the front of the torque boxes for a good reference point. Using a square to transfer the area of the inner rocker to be trimmed and for tabs was as simple as lining up the front of the tube and transferring the mark on the part.
 

 
The mark I made on the inner rocker was the outside of the forward torque box, so the thickness of the front of the box (I allowed .125") for the bend radius plus the metal thickness. This is another place that the factory makes tabs on the inside of the rocker to have more attachment points, I go a little bit farther and cap the end of the "tube" for more strength. This inner rocker is not tapered up towards the front torque box, which might have to be another modification. I needed to see how the torque box was going to align due to this fact. Prepping the area by grinding down the PO's leftover spot weld remnants (thanks whoever took it apart, you did a great job lol) the outer portion of the torque box popped right in place. Using a couple 18R vise grips to hold it up I installed the inner rocker on it's outboard side. (not in the picture)
 

 
I did test fit the outer rocker before any of this was attempted, it fit fairly well. It is going to need some clamping in order to be dimensionally correct, but will work nicely. Once all these pieces are happy in their new positions (sheet metal screwed together) I can get the doors on this and continue getting the chassis braced and properly supported. So far, so good

Im about to wire up a duraspark module located between the battery and radiator support. The solenoid is a perfect place to get both power wires fed and it's close by. My concern, on the small terminals, if I add an additional nut to secure a ring terminal, the push on connectors are only half on. Being close to the fan they might get blown off, maybe. So in my mind I'm thinking I could take the nuts off the small terminals and put a wire ring eyelet behind it, to save the rest of the stud for the push on connector. Doing so will preserve my good factory harness from cutting and soldering. So will taking these nuts off, mess up anything internally in the solenoid? Or adjustments? Normally with a question like this I'd just peck an old one apart and see but I couldn't find a junk one readily available. Should I try it on my new standard solenoid or look for another solution?

Walked outside this evening, just in time to catch a nice pic of a funnel cloud directly over the house .

As the title states for sale a pair of the repo lower front fender reinforcement brackets that bolt to the the area where the rocker panel joins the front torque box at the back of the fenders on 67-70. I found my originals so I do not need these. $16.00 w/shipping.
 

Probably a re post, but that's OK.
 
 
Go to the 6 minute 30 second mark and enjoy :biggrin:
 
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5obwbM6mrM
 
 
Sometimes it good to get excited all over about owning a Mustang.
 
JIM

My harness refurbishment business just reached a major milestone: 500 underdash harnesses have been refurbished and sold to customers.  When I started out in March, 2008, I thought that there might be sufficient need to make this a hobby business, defined by the IRS as having no consecutive years of making a profit.  As of 2011, I had to register as a business, as the demand for these services was greater than I originally thought!
 
I started out thinking that the distribution of harnesses by production year would largely reflect two factors: how many Mustangs were built and the cost of reproduction harnesses.  Mustang productions peaked in 65/66, declining all the way through 73.  Reproduction harnesses start out at ~$500 for the earliest years, growing to ~$1000 for 1970.  No reproductions are available for 71-73.  I expected a reasonably flat distribution from 65through 70, with a bit higher demand for the later years.  What actually happened was much different:
 

 
The biggest surprise is that 1969 dominates all other years, accounting for 26% of all of my work.  The next highest year is 66, 67, and 70, each running about 13%.  1968 accounts for about 10%.  I think this data is telling me that 1969 is by far the most popular year Mustang, and that the 71-73 demand is much lower than other years.  We’ll see if this changes over the next few years. 
 
Thanks for reading!

I'd like a little direction, advice and how and where you guys ran additional wires thru the firewall. I've got two gauges (electrical) and two idiot lights (and one idiot electrician) installed in the center console gauge pod. I'd like to run three or four wires for 1) oil temp, 2) oil pressure idiot light, 3) water temp idiot light, 4) and maybe the transmission fluid temp. I may run the trans temp wire up thru the tranny shifter area if the sensor is installed in the pan.

I think Randy at Midlife ran the new tachometer signal wire thru the stock wire harness grommet on the firewall. Edit: Not the plug connection at the fuse box, but further towards the center in front of the driver. Can additional wires be run thru the stock grommet? And if so, how? I know I can always install a new grommet, but the stock main wire harness grommet is in the ideal location for me.

Thanks guys.

Fixing to purchase the entire interior for my Mach in one shot. Part of that includes the replacement of both kick panels and the rear package shelf. Eventually I will be ordering a Retrosound unit to replace my old AM radio and want four speakers, two in the kick panels and two on that package shelf. That said, anyone have any experience or comments about the following two items?  
 
https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/kick_panel_speaker_set_no_speaker-137972-100.html
 
https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/trim_panel_package_tray_molded_plastic-197986-100.html
 
 
Thanks!

My how things can change....
 
Sold my shop...no place to go until my new shop is built in the spring.
the last time the car spent the winter outside was 1987.. 

From under the dash...without disturbing the dash or instrument panel....

When bored at work (which rarely happens), I look at eBay to see what's out there.  Today, I searched Mustang underdash harnesses, which usually has way overpriced used stuff where folks claim it was refurbished.  Looking closely at the pictures, it usually indicates broken wires and such, all for $600+.  Outrageous!
 
Today, a 69 with AC with listed for $49.99, BIN.  The pictures showed it was easily refurbishable with minor damage, well within my desires for really good cores.  Two people were watching this listing.  Screw them: I snapped it up as my standard core charge is $50. 
 
As you know, the 69 and 70's are my biggest sellers (see http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php/topic/55726-reaching-a-milestone/
and I'm always short of good cores.  Finding something on eBay listed at normal core charges and a good $250 less than anything else was a surprise.
 
He browses, he clicks, he scores!!!!

Hey all, first post here. Long time fan of mustangs, especially '69-70' mustangs. I have a '68 coupe in the garage, but have always wanted a '69-'70 ever since I helped out in a local shop in high school that restored only rare, and valuable '69 and '70s. (Shelby, Boss, Mach 1 SCJ, etc.)
Long story short...
Stumbled across a 1970 Sportsroof 302 2v, A/T 3 miles from my house. It's a bare bones car, with manual steering, front drum brakes, and no A/C. (All of which can be changed obviously, but currently hurts it's value) It's been sitting in the barn since 1988. It is a 1 owner car, bought new in 1970 from the local ford dealership. Clean title in hand. The owner bought a new Ford Ranger in 1988, backed the mustang in the barn, and never drove it again. The car is rusty unfortunately.  The 18 years it spent on the road were mostly on winter, salty, Indiana roads. lol.
 
It for sure needs:
2- Quarter Panels
2- Fenders
Full Floorpan
Front Bumper
Full Interior
Driver's Door
A couple of areas on the frame will need repaired as well. 
I've included pictures of some of the worst areas. 
 
My biggest question is: Is it worth it, or should I spend the extra 3 or 4k on a cleaner car? Tools, and garage space aren't an issue, as I have mig and tig welders, plasma cutter, cutting torch, grinders, etc. 
 
He is asking $4k. I was thinking it would be more enticing if it was closer to the $2500 range. I've got a gut feeling that this is probably nothing more than a parts car in it's current condition.
 
Thoughts?? 
 






 

As my car is in the body shop, and my engine is at home on the stand, I am trying to source a radiator/fan/shroud combination that will fit in the space between the radiator support and my water pump (long) serpentine pulley.
 
I have 351 Windsor based stroker. My radiator core is going to be around 2-1/4 inches thick.  My radiator guy at DeWitt says he can get me 2-12" fans and a shroud that will fit in less than 6" space, using slimline SPAL fans.
 
Any experience, ideas?
 
Any dimensions from waterpump pulley face to radiator support if you have a small block would be appreciated.
 

I picked up this "69 Grande on a whim. The family I got it from bought it in 1970, and parked it in 1983 with 57K on the clock. Just put it out to pasture, literally...They painted it not long before that. Original color is Silver Jade metallic(black interior). Has a 302-2V,C4,PS,PDB and AC. Also has the dash clock. For the amount of time it was neglected it's pretty solid in many places. Rear rails, truck floors are nice. Most of the floors look great, and the rockers. Torque boxes are toast, and where the battery sits. Will need some outer bodywork also. Bottoms of fenders,doors and quarters in front/back of the wheels. The car is super straight though, never hit or taken apart! I have it listed on CL, was thinking of finding a cleaner one. Curious what others thing of my potential Pony?! Here's a few pics.